Datsun Dealers

All of the rear suspension is officially out from under the car. Three main items next on the agenda: -Remove spindle pins (the auto shop on Ft. Carson has a 26 ton press) -Remove/replace driveshaft/halfshaft u-joints -Remove original 4 speed I have one coil spring out, still need to do driver's side. Lesson learned: I should have broken the nut free on top of the struts before dropping them!

Just a quick update... I decided to go ahead and put her on jack stands for a little while. With 10-16" of snow coming this weekend, I figured it was a good time. Yesterday I soaked some of the rear suspension in penetrating oil. Today I basically wheeled around under the car, a few nuts and bolts at a time, reapplying the penetrating oil. After a few hours I removed the exhaust, rear sway bar, rear differential, half shafts, mustache bar, driveshaft, and diff strap. There's one bolt left on the driveshaft that needs some heat. I also decided to go with the RT diff mount. It's tough to decide how far to tear into the car. I'm planning on cleaning/repainting all of the rear suspension components. What I'm trying to decide is whether or not to install my Koni struts and Suspension Techniques springs while I'm at it. I'd like to be driving her again by April/May.

Is your current setup not loud? Here's a video of mine, an L29 with 6-2 header, 2.5" pipe, to Borla Pro XS muffler. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50958-clifford-research-6-2-25-to-borla-pro-xs-muffler-video/#entry463728

Folks, I just wanted to post this video for your enjoyment and reference. I like the sound dearly. I have some ANSA tips I want to put on for looks but for now I'm sticking with this. 2.9L F54/E88 Stage III Schneider cam kit with 10,000rpm springs, etc. Oversize SS valves round top SUs Clifford Research 6-2 jet hot coated header 2.5" exhaust pipe Borla Pro XS SS muffler Engine revs to about 4,500-5,000 rpms. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lldrWxCQNBg&feature=youtu.be

Done! This was taken at the end of October. I'm going to post it in the Exhaust section for reference as well.

I think I'll check my local Pull-a-Part towards the end of the week when it warms up a little. There are three 2000 models. Are you guy's using any sort of adhesive? Or do these just compress around the hatch?

Well I finished the move to Colorado, driving a 26ft Penske truck with the 240z behind was not an enjoyable experience. She arrived dirty, and I didn't have my DD in Colorado. I had to drive her in two days of snow before I decided on another vehicle. It looks like it'll be up to 62 this weekend so I have a feeling I'll take the Z out. She seems to be drinking the 91 octane decently at this elevation, and I haven't even had a chance to touch the carbs. The timing advance didn't need to be changed, and she's running like a bandit. I have concluded the sputtering out at 5500 rpms is that the engine/carbs are sucking the float bowls dry. I have sourced a used NISMO electric fuel pump to remedy this. As of now it acts a bit of a rev limiter. It is leaving 1500 rpms on the table. I plan to do a 5 speed / 4.11 R180 swap this winter with a bushing refresh.

Just to add my bit of experience. About two years ago I decided to get a long block F54/E88 combo built up shortly after I purchased my '73 240z. I saved the original running block and the E88 went into the build. I chose a locally known engine builder, and had it built to a 2.9L ~10.0:1 comp ratio (heavily ported) masterpiece. It was fully balanced, blueprinted, etc. My builder also said the pistons were protruding too far out of the block to his liking. He said my choices were were a 2mm head gasket (could have been less) for $220 or for him to mill the tops of the pistons in his shop for $150. I was a little nervous (he is mainly known for making American drag racing and circle track engines) about the milling but went with his advice and my gut. I'm glad to read Rebello does the same thing. ~1300 miles later, I have no complaints whatsoever. Did a proper break-in, 500 mile oil change, stayed under 4,000 rpms first 1,000 miles. Now I flog her and she's a blast. Still needs some suspension work, but the engine has performed wonderfully thus far.

I'm a veteran, moving to CO in the next few weeks. Trying to get rid of everything non-essential items. I have to fit a 4 br house into a 26ft u-haul. I don't care about prices anymore (except for certain things). Come take it all. http://augusta.craigslist.org/pts/4704851980.html https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/permalink/769790313056109/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/255429391250815/permalink/601989539928130/ There's more, just haven't gotten to clean out the garage yet. Will not ship unless it's a higher dollar item worth my time to package, etc.

Took the 240z grocery shopping!

Final update: Yesterday he showed up in another Datsun, this time his daily driver 510. He bought the Z for $1750 and after waiting 3 hours for a flatbed, took her home. I like to give details in relation to the 240z market. I originally listed it for sale just under a month ago. As I got the clutch operating, new thermostat, cleaned it up without hiding/repairing rust, offers came in. Many, many trade offers. Cash offers of $1,000, $1,200, $1,400 were refused.

Thanks for the reply 26th-Z. Mine isn't quite that fancy. Here are the photos I finally took. Excuse the dusty interior. Would an aftermarket roll bar look this unfinished at the rear mounting points?

Car is pending sale for asking price. A gentleman pulled up in a '65 Datsun pickup his father bought new to look at the Z. Showed me photos of his nice 2 door 510 and project 411 wagon. I guess he took a loan on his 401k to pick up this project car to complete the family.

It looks like after owning my '73 240z for about three years, I still don't know everything about my Z. The PO bought the car used at a Datsun dealer in 1976. He didn't mention any performance upgrades when I was buying it, just that it was the longest relationship of his life. I discovered I sold the 99996-E1140 Datsun Comp headers over the summer (thought they were no-name, now I have NOS Clifford). Car has front/rear sway bars. I finally measured them...25mm front, 19mm rear. Presumably from Nissan. That explains why the Autozone front sway bar bushings were so hard to get on!! The last thing I'm trying to figure out is who made four point roll bars back in the day. It mounts in the same location as modern ones, but has no cross bar. I bought padding one day for the top bar, but after bringing it home realized it is so tight there is no room for padding. My conclusion is that in 1973, someone bought this car, and bought every performance part they could afford through Datsun Comp at the time, perhaps to autocross? I have 25+ years of registrations, receipts, nothing about these parts, so I think the PO bought, drove it, enjoyed it, oblivious to what suspension/performance components were on it. Do any of you remember buying/wanting/selling these roll bars back in the day? Photos to be taken in daylight. Thanks in advance.

That was at a junkyard?!? Dang. Nice find. The engine looks extremely promising.

Update: Money and elbow grease is finished on my end. Needs complete floor pan patched/replaced, rocker skin/patch, dogleg skin/patch, hole in battery box. No bondo, fiberglass, or sprayfoam in car whatsoever. I spray painted some bare metal/rust orange/black, respectively. Here's the classiczcar and craigslist ad, many lookers, a couple lowballers (gotta try), two people say they are getting funds together. Another local guy looking this afternoon. 1973 Datsun 240z I was told in person yesterday "I can get one pretty easily in good condition for $3000." Datsun Classifieds Ad