Mudge

The ID of the strut housing on the 240 versus the 280 is about 2/10" different (somewhere there abouts), so yes they will not work. Various other struts have been used on the 240 that "fit", but most if not all of them require sectioning the strut housing, which means lowering the car as well.

Heres one http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=2debff4933bc429d32aa51922331c805

Here is the text file, which a member posted awhile back. datsun l6 stock cam specs.txt

The cam that came in the N47 head, in an L24 is marked with an E according to the below chart, which came from a text file and of course will not paste properly: Engine L24 L26 L28&L28e L28e L28et L28et L28et L24e Head E31/E88 E88 N42/N47/P79 P79 P90 P90 P90A N47 Cam Mark A C A F B J M E Date all all <8/81 9/81> AT<7/82 MT<7/82 8/82> all Part # 13001- E4126 N3626 E4126 P7980 P3026 P9580 P9980 S6280 Intake duration 248 256 248 240 240 240 240 240 Exhaust duration 248 256 248 248 248 240 240 240 Lobe centers 109 109 109 109 109 110 109 106 There is also a BMW E-30 engine....

Yes, it can be annoying sometimes but its there so you dont lock your keys in the car

Wow, it is a beauty!

Thank Google

Congrats Eric I should have asked you, about your front air dam setup, it looked adjustable? Where/how did you fix this up? This would be great for track stuff...

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

Maybe you have a Yahoo file share account? I have a Yahoo account, but not a YahooFS account...

Because your browser would have cached it

Tripple carbs would be nice for all out race, but those other upgrades are going to net more power for you overall, the fuel system is not all that bad stock. Take some time to learn about the cars and you can do those upgrades that seem obsqure to you now. Header and exaust would maybe be a good place to start, when you have some cashola.

My 240Z with an early 5 speed, stock rear, N42 head, no header but worked exaust runs a 15.8 and feels pretty good at takeoff...

The choke cable is seriously sticking (age I assume), so I will try this! Thanks

The noise with poly bushings is bind, if they aren't lubed properly

I have gear noise on deceleration or lack of throttle input, which is supposedly incorrect rear end gear backlash, but I haven't finished troubleshooting.

A brand new fan can be had for $30, I'll do the wiring myself. I heard there was a CSI electric water pump near completion also... I'm in South San Fran, near Daily City, work in SF, about 35 miles from you.

Downdrafts should be duals, I have the same setup and only get 15 MPG, so probably time for a rebuild on them.

I plan to get me one of these $30 fans too, or maybe a $5 junkyard Camaro fan instead, we'll see That and a new biggy radiator, should be nice!

I have heard 2 things so far, one person found that thier internals were within .3 grams of each other in balance, and someone else said I think they were as much as 4 grams apart? 2 very different experiences... I myself would love to balance the internals but that remains to be see, I'd also like to polish the rods, but again thats all time and money and I dont know what will ultimately happen, although I'm not in a rush. All those little things "I wanna do this/that" do start to add up though...

For those of you interested in weight, I picked up an F54 over the weekend, no flywheel, no head, no intake/carbs, 228 pounds. It sure feels like about 300, when carrying it around, and it left some nice marks on the legs.

So long as everything checks out with the F54 block I have, I'm not even going to hone it, I'm going to use a glaze breaker and just refresh it. The engine has about 175k on it, and if it is TRUE that the longevity is good then there should be zero problem in doing so, so long as the engine I have was well kept. This has been done to American V8s with more than 200k just fine, and I know of a Miata with a turbo that is over 220k miles on the stock bottom, so I dont believe that a rebuild is in order every 100k So, hopefully this will be a nice budget setup when I'm through

Scotch brite pads should clean up the piston tops pretty nicely, and wont scuff 'em up like a wire brush

Wow, the stuff I looked at was $199 Thanks for the info, and the link

I heard that it was more than just a little innacurate, and also being affected by outside heat sources, but yes I saw the side benefits of speed and measuring other things which is why I wanted one. About $200 versus $100, figured sure why not.