siteunseen

Looks good to me. Your distributor cap should have a raised line on the outside that will line up with your rotor button at number 1.

I got a "contact us" message??? Never seen that before...

here's mine when I tore it down. After it's back together

There's a trick Tom Monroe tells in his book that worked for me a few times. I'll take some pics with my phone but can scan it when I'm back from work. Maybe you can read this.

rockauto has a better deal than amazon I just saw. In the box "how did you hear about us" put 9238848886853244 for a 5% discount. I think it changes daily? but you can google discount code for rockauto and get the newest one. $93 shipping and all to my house. I learned a trick on the pilot bearing/bushing. Put it between your pointing finger and your thumb, fill it with motor oil and squeeze until you see the outside "sweat" drops form. That oils it throughout. Thanks Tom Monroe! Similar to this...

That looks like an add on to me. My covers have a hardened caulk looking substance around that shield. Don't know what it is though, sorry. Someone will chime in and tell us, I've read it before on here.

I have that on both my 225mm flywheels. I really like mine too. The first one I installed the throw out bearing myself, it makes a spinning noise when the clutch is released in neutral. Nothing bad just an annoyance to me knowing it's there. The second one I had pressed on by my machinist. Absolutely quiet in neutral. Good clutch kit with everything you'll need. I highly recommend for a street car. I bought mine at amazon .com for $100 and free shipping. Cheers...

Sounds like you are running out of fuel? Does it have the flat top carbs? We have some flat top guys on here, @Captain Obvious @Zup

Some good reading... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=O2HXW6iCK6Sk_Qb-u7LQBA&q=92+mm+throwout+collar+classiczcars.com&oq=92+mm+throwout+collar+classiczcars.com&gs_l=psy-ab.3...13270.13270..14501...0.0..0.71.71.1......0....1..gws-wiz.2H4un9uboWI

Good idea! Thank you.

As said above, I believe I'd try a smaller fuel tank feeding the pump first off. You'll be eliminating most of your list.

I thought about a needle and thread.

That's exactly how I have my FPR. One day I'll Dremel that extra mounting ear off and try and make it look a little better. Did you run a hose to the cold start vale? I ran a T off the rear, one side to the FPR the other to the CSV.

Has anyone come up with a simple fix to keep the lap and shoulder belts connected? I have a helluva time with mine, annoying way to start off a drive. I thought about a thick small rubber washer like for faucet repair. Drill the hole out just big enough to squeeze over the little mushroom looking button on the latch. It has a off white washer now but it isn't thick enough to keep those two pieces together. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I want one! As my eyesight gets a little fuzzier everyday. ?

Mine's a 69612 Bosch. Beck Arnley started making them for our cars after Bosch. Not sure who now.

I think I'd put the gauge on the input hose to the filter. You could have a semi clogged fuel filter? I bought one of the last available Bosch pumps in 2011 for over $250. zcardept.com has one for $280... https://www.ebay.com/i/323507625205?chn=ps

Trouble Shooting If you suffer from a fast idle after the car is warmed up, simply use pliers or vise grips to pinch off the hose between the throttle body and AAR. If the idle rpm decreases then the AAR is not closing. NOTE: Vacuum leaks, a faulty BCCD valve, stuck accelerator linkage, weak throttle body return spring or gummed open throttle body flap can also cause a fast idle.

Egg on my face! I thought Missouri was way far away but it's not. Maybe I can schedule that vacation and see Dolly Parton's... And go for a Missouri Boat Ride.

From all I've read the thermotine is what you say, only for start up. The connector was broken off mine and I drove the car for a few months fine. I found a Z at a local junkyard and put it on but couldn't tell any difference. I've read some people don't have theirs plugged up at all. You can't find them anymore. When you loosen the oil cap does it stumble, die down on the RPMs? That's an easy way to tell if you might have a vacuum leak. If it doesn't change the idle you may have a bad vacuum hose somewhere. That accordion boot up front is bad to crack and leak causing higher idle. If it gets air before the throttle blade it's higher idle, after it would be low and lumpy, IF I REMEMBER RIGHT! I've forgotten a lot about the EFI car. Also cleaning the rotor button and distributor cap will help, replacing them even better. Good luck. Drum roll for Zed Head. He's very helpful.

Welcome to the forum. I'd say first to make sure the thermotine and the coolant sensor plugs aren't crossed with each other. The coolant sensor comes off into two wires as seen below. Second guess would be the AAR needs cleaning or maybe check to make sure ut opens and closes with heat. Drop it in some boiling water and make sure it closes. It opens up when cold allowing more air in to raise the idle. Yours seems right the opposite though? Anyway there'll be 20 replies before the end of the day, you'll get an answer. Here's a good write up on the AAR... Thanks @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/aar/index.html

Someone that evaded being photographed but I see her! Ms Maras...

Thank you! I need that style. Much brighter than mine.

It was nice meeting you and Cody too Mr Patcon. I'm glad everyone had fun and safe travel here and back. Atlanta's Hartsfield is mine now. Thanks Maras, I needed that.

I can't even get mine to come on! It's the sticky door jamb button I think. I'll get a pic soon. Meantime mine looks more like Mr Wilkes than 7tooZ's. What bulb did you use @7tooZ? I have the 4 small panels on mine. The light fixture lens is so frosted I can hardly see without my map light on. That's the one I use mostly. Edit: duh! I use the map light 'cause the dome won't come on. Like my dome.