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I'm sure you're right Charles, I have mold. I just go by the gauge and it claims 55 to 60 % is okay. I'll let that thing run 24/7. Mold my my eyes red and nose stuffy, is what I tell my Mom.

So glad you're keeping this up and running. I can't imagine my Z experience without that. I hope you can get Kammy's valve adjusting suggestions included. I guesstimate my 5,000 plus replies have at least 500 of your tips I Hoover-ed from you and always got a "Like" from them. I know that I helped people through your detailed work. Now you're on 240s, FANTASTIC! Like you told Hardway, "keep them coming". I'll keep passing the info on to the newer guys. Thank you!

Thank you Phillip. I can take odorless peroxide. it's cheap too. If I took a peroxide bath it would erupt with fizzle like a grade school science project.

May try a diluted bleach and water. Heavily diluted! Or buy a handheld Dirt Devil.

Is there a vinegar that doesn't smell like vinegar? Maybe I could use raspberry flavored vinegar or vodka. I run a dehumidifier and have humidistat gauge down there. It rarely gets above 60%.

Seems to be a common thing now days, when your wrong flip it to insults. ie. Trump

Taste different also.

I keep my Zs covered in a mostly dark and dry garage. I am having some type of powdery mold spots forming on the carpets. They will disappear after vacuuming and even brushing with my hand. Anybody else have these spots and know what I could do to prevent them? Thanks.

My take on your cam question is based on the cam I had reground. The lobes are much smaller now, almost round. So I don't see how they could push any of the valves further down than stock. They just stay open longer.

I thought it was an intercom from Sonic.

I'll try my best to attend track day. I love that track from a spectator's point of view. You can pull right up to the guardrail on the back straight.

The book looks much better. The contrast on the download is a little too much for my eyes.

When you reply look down to the bottom left for a paperclip and CLICK TO CHOSE FILES. Hit that find your picture then click the "+" add sign in the picture once it uploads. When you click the + symbol it will put the picture in the body of your reply. That's about as clear as mud, I know, but maybe you'll figure it out.

I borrowed a picture of Motorman's fine looking car for a minute. The fuel pump should be on the passenger's side of the valve cover where the arrow is. The vacuum hose off the front carb to the distributor is the other yellow arrow. If that's not connected or plugged off, your front carb will be leaner than the rear.

Maybe it has something to do with the automatic transmission? @djwarner knows a lot about the automatics. He might see this and recognize a problem? Sorry I can't be more helpful. 8^(

Sounds like the 240 fiberglass bumpers. They got out of whack and it wasn't corrected until many complaints. Molds get moldy apparently.

I think if it's inoperable, the mechanical pump, I would pull it off and put a block off plate on. Unless you have the Yorx A/C compressor in the way. That's a huge PITA to get it off, at least for me. I would adjust the carbs to run independently on there on by lifting the piston or pushing down that pin which disables the carb. It'll barely run on 1 carb but it will run. Like Blue says in his "quick and dirty" SU adjusting thread get them both to run by themselves equally as shitty. Google that, "Quick and dirty SU adjustment classiczcars.com" that's my SU bible.

I ground a notch on the tops of the bores on the block instead of over boring. Im on a budget. Exhaust and intake valves are the larger 2.8 size and I'd read from Carl Beck that they will slightly hit making a tapping noise that drove him crazy. FYI I also have an E31 with the bigger valves.

You may need to set the fuel level in the float chambers.

Does it still have the mechanical fuel pump on the head above #1 spark plug or block off plate? Mine run great with just the mechanical pump. If it were mine I would put a Fram G-2 coming out of the fuel tank. Is your vacuum advance hose connected to the back of the front carburetor, left side looking from the driver's fender. Are both sets of points in the distributor adjusted properly? Just throwing some things out that could cause your problem. Hard to say without knowing more. Pull the spark plugs and see if they are whiter or darker. Keep them in order, the first 3 run off the front carb and 4 through 6 the rear. Post a picture of them if they don't all look the same off white color.

Here's a couple of good reads for shorter valve seals. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/ I've read anything over .460 needs stiffer springs and the shorter valve seals. I put the Felpro SS72686 on my stock E88 as a practice run for myself. They're a little tricky getting them down without going too far. I used a deep well socket that rest on the metal part of the seals and drove them down with a rubber hammer. If you take your time there are easy, after the first one.

He speaks for me and everybody that owns EFI cars plus 95% of the forum. Just not you and "Her Majesty" the queen. His views are none of my business but all the money he has saved me and thousands of other people just by being a kind and helpful person with his Tech Tips is something I'm waiting on you to do. As long as I've been active here I cannot recall a single positive post from you.

All my Nissan parts come out of a distribution center in Texas, close to Courtesey Nissan. I would give them a call for sure. Good luck. My cars only tire changing tools?

Sold it.