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The guy that bought my #110 painted the calipers with a high heat color that's close to the body color. I think it looks pretty cool and had never thought about doing something like that.

I'm running a 225mm Tilton aluminum flywheel in my 240 with the $100 Exedy kit for the 280ZX 5 speed I switched over to. It takes a few minutes getting used to the lightweight clutch after driving my other manual cars/trucks. After I make it out of my driveway and onto the streets, I'm used to it and love the quick revving. It reminds me of the street bikes I used to ride. I would drain the transmission fluid if you're just doing the clutch and replace it with Red Line MT90. New slave cylinder and hose. New rubber seal around the speedometer cable. Those you'll have to get from a Nissan dealership, $3 or $4. While you have the transmission out you should replace the rear oil seal also. They're cheap and can be bought at any chain auto parts store. If it were MINE I'd put a 5 speed in if you can find one. 70 mph at 2,100 rpm instead of 3,500.

I believe I see a stair case and a Samsung phone. I'd be happy to win the dirt.

Thanks Chas! I see now why the 240 assembly kit is much more expensive than the 280. There's a lot more material on the 240s. The 240s 4 speed is shorter so I guess that's why the heights are different. Learn something every time I use this forum.

I used an Exedy clutch kit and Beck Arnley slave cylinder and hose on both my 280 and 240 with a five speed swap. I can't figure out why a kit for a 280 won't work on a 240? What's different about them besides the shorter collar which isn't part of the kit? Here's the one I have in both cars and so far they are working fantastic. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE

I went to highschool with a girl we called "bait head".

The date of manufacture is inside the driver's door frame above the latch. Pay a few dollars and have the throw-out bearing pressed on at a machine shop. I hammered on my first one and it whines. The second one I had pressed on, quiet as a mouse.

If the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder is threaded and has a couple of nuts on it it's adjustable. One nut is to lock the other in place. You'll need to loosen them and use a bigger flat head screwdriver on the end of the push rod, it has a slit cut in it, turn it counter clockwise one full turn then tighten the nuts back up and drive it. If it's worse repeat but go clockwise. I honestly can't remember if it needs to be longer or shorter? Good luck. here's the adjustable slave. The ball goes against the fork to push it out and the extra threaded part goes through a hole in the fork.

Your fuel pump could be going bad? I ran a fuel hose with a gauge stuck down inside it to my driver's wiper blade and drove the car. That will let you know if your pressure is constant, even under load. You can "screw" the threads down into a section of hose then put a clamp over it and zip-tie it to the wiper. Go for a drive and see what it does.

My '77 had the opposite problem of your's. It ran like crap up until 2,500-3,000 RPM then it would pull. I finally did the coolant sensor tweak by installing a potentiometer to increase the fuel the ECU was allowing. It's pretty much a volume knob from Radio Shack. I would clean as many electrical connections you can. Then remove the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing and shine it up. They get covered with crud over the years and won't "sense" properly. here's a chart Captain Obvious put together for us to use.

Agree with Diseazed. When I bought a 240 after owning a few 280s I was pleasantly surprised the slave cylinder is adjustable if it's still stock. It was slipping so bad I could hardly get out of my driveway. After reading a little I adjusted it and it would leave a little black mark on the street. Now I have the automatic adjusting one with a 5 speed but I drove it for a year on that old clutch before the swap. You'll need to double check by reading some older threads but I'm thinking you make the slave's threaded rod longer and the clutch pedal push rod longer as well.

I knew you'd figure something out, 2x4 wasn't too good an example, an old shovel handle or piece of pipe fits in between everything. I'm guessing it's the locating dowels holding it. If you do use a putty knife make sure and go under the gasket against the cast iron block.

Get a 2x4 the right length on that overhang on the passenger's side, use a floor jack and come up from the bottom? I'd tap a putty knife in all around the head gasket to break the seal.

That's awesome! Congratulations to Greg, and good to see Futofab supporting our cars.

My favorite troll.

Hey Charles I know you check craigslist but have you seen the 240 motor and transmission in one of the Carolina's for $200?

Earnest T. Bass was the first troll or trowel that I ever heard.

Deal!

Now I can associate that image with a couple of user names, maybe they can use it as an avatar.

My T plug doesn't look like your's. Mine look like Ts. Your's look more like an H. Maybe it has the higher output alternator already?

Here's my dealer add on side trim ends, '77 280.

I agree with Patcon, backfiring through the carbs is a sign of leaning out. It could be something loose on the balance tube or the carburetors? http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/

I'd pull the the hose off the filter and siphon it until you get a mouth full of fuel. Maybe take the fill cap off too for more vent.

Looks like the "chisel tip" on here. https://www.customautotrim.com/body-side-moldings/rivet-on-molding/tip/82/

Thank you all for the suggestions. They have one of these at walmart, $20. Rechargeable, claims it'll run for 30 to 60 days on a charge depending on humidity. I need to get a new middle garage door. Lots of daylight showing around it now so that's why the dehumidifier runs constantly. After selling the red 240 I have some extra cash for the custom sized door and a digital, programmable dehumidifier.