siteunseen

You could do the wires 180 and see. 153624 would be 426351? Some more informed cats could chime in here, PLEASE???

Looks like the fat side is 180 off.

Or my Dad's favorite black pepper. Me and Zed's plus some salt and you'd have a Contnetinal Breakfast. Fill your radiator with bloody mary mix, windshield washer tank with vodka and you welcome at my house anytime. Cook some ribeyes on the manifold... Party over heaaaar!

This is long but has all the info.

I used 5/8 from O'Reillys for the 180 bend hose. 1/2 for the long one from driver's side to evap tank.

Are the links the right number apart? I can't remember the number, Google if you don't have it. I see you are starting on #3 timing hole on the cam sprocket. I've done that to two new motors from advice I heard/read. I will be going back to #1 on my 240. Those motors turn more rpms than the 2.8 and peter out around 6,000. I am not happy with that. My 280 is okay on hole 3 i guess but #2 would've been best in hindsight. Low end power plus still some left up top. That's my opinion.

180 degree bend. I used two 90s on mine, so my confusion. Plus three or four more confusions.

There's two holes they come up through in the hatch. The drivers side and the hose you show comes up towards the centet of the passenger's brake light assembly. You need those rubber grommets to, where they come through. Hope I'm helping, not confusing. Just got home from work and scattered. 8^(

No, i said that wrong. The one that runs the whole rear isn't the 90 degree that you have. That one is on the fat end of the tank.

Looks like #5 in that diagram. You're gonna have to remove interior panels.

On my 72 that hose goes all the way down the interior side of the brake lights to the evap tank on the passenger side interior, behind the strut tower.

You could pull the feeder lines off the carbs and see if they are supplying fuel when you spin the motor. My experience with the first crank has always been the distributor timing. Loosen the hold down clamp and have someone crank the car over and turn the distributor to see if it'll crank. Good luck.

I got paid in Bitcoin for all the test takers.

Me to.

I thought it was passengers rear, the farthest from the m/c? I've been doing it wrong! Not a big deal though, it stops.

Something in your/our future we'd all like to see. Hopefully we'll have that sort of appreciation for our Zs. Good to hear from you. Trevor is still enjoying his classic ride I'm sure? Cliff

Annoying how? You answered it correctly.

UAE bidders? They're popular there.

@Grubb240Z Looks like your's.?

The air screws are #10 on the diagram. Also shown in the last 2 pictures of the first post in this thread. Those are the ones I turn to balance my air flow.

Reefer Madness.

Mark you know about the flat heads, right? I thought that was a Harley motor and answered X. Usually the questions that have an odd answer are the right ones but i was wru wru wru wrong. Terrible Fonzie impersonation. 8^)

Google "quick and dirty su tuning classiczcars.com" Those holes are on bottom on my '72. That very well could be a problem. The trick I learned from quick and dirty is get the front and rear running equally shitty separately as Phillip so brilliantly describes. He's a wordsmith, explaining methods my dog could understand if he could read and I'm working on that.

It was the type of motor. I said flat head and was wrong.