siteunseen

Hard to see but it's a little different than the other side. One side is a little shorter than the other. Good luck!

I had a problem with my EGR. You take a handheld mirror and look under the intake manifold closest to the windshield. The coupling hooks there, mine was loose for who knows how long and rotted out my EGR chamber? I think it's called. This is after I replaced everything but gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. Another thing that happened to me, and me only apparently 'cause I'ma stupid sometimes, I put the valve cover gasket on upside down and created a small opening above the thermostat housing. They have a straight side and mine was opposite. I know that's not your leak but it's something to look at.

Great looking Z! Love the documentation too. You still own the Scion FSR? Glad you're back. Cliff

I used 0000 steel wool on mine then satin black on the metal. Looks good to me. Gear knob was dipped in minwax helsman satin poly about 20 times over a month or so. It filled in the cracks on the shift pattern map.

I think halfway cold is right. Put it in the freezer and see then hot water. Your cold might be 80 outside. It's 92 here. It's always warmer here so my AAR is useless. Sorry I haven't read the whole thread but surely you've turned the idle adjustment spring up top after the throttle body? Another thought, is your throttle body plate closing completely? I've had to clean my with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush. They get gunky.

You can get a loaner vacuum gauge from chain auto parts stores and see if you may have a leak. IIRC mine are at 17 hg at 10btdc. Just a thought. Good luck. PS the trick to installing the spindle and pump as explained in Tom monroe's rebuild book is push it up in to the right of the top right bolt hole, engage the gears then turn the pump back to the left, insert bolts.

I agree with Zed. Turning the dizzy clockwise increases engine idle so yeah your idle is off somehow. 20btdc is too high. The spindle could be tooth or 2 off. There's ways to cheat that by moving the plug wires on the cap. I've only read about it so no help on that you'll have to research that. Dropping the oil pump and moving it is pain but if you want it right... All the caps I've seen have a vertical raised line on the outside that shows were the rotor button should be pointing at TDC.

@Hardway Has a great write up I went by. Here you go... https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=jhjlXP3nAo26ggfyhqPgDw&q=emblems+hardway+classiczcars.com&oq=emblems+hardway+classiczcars.com&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.12...3572.33227..34992...0.0..0.148.3774.7j24......0....1.......8..41j0i131j0j46j46i131i275j46i131j0i70i249j0i10j5j0i22i30j0i22i10i30j33i22i29i30j33i160j33i299.lCaDwgtdh_Q

Could the springs in the pistons be stretched some to add resistance? Mine are pretty "heavy" feeling when i raise them. Using 20wt 3in1 oil. Car runs great. Captain O, "dent your finger" is a great description. As a quick and inexpensive way to check fuel levels I used this first and saw how low mine were then went deeper, pun intended.

The longer bolts go for those rails I found out the hard way. Never found out the reason for those rails though.

What type fuel pump are you using? Stalling out with the pins is normal. It kills that carb and only runs on the other one, so basically turns to a 3 cylinder. Front carb fuels 1,2,3 cylinders. Rear 4,5, and six. Getting the cables right was pain for me so I'd start there. Swapping from a 4 barrel back to SUs is going to fun. You'll get it figured out with all the help you will get here. My first thought was float levels. Try sticking a WD-40 straw down the overflow bungs to make sure the floats are freed up. You should feel them moving up and down. I remember the video saying shipping can bang those up sometimes. Are the choke cables pulling the nozzle all the way up?

Part numbers are even better. They try and hide that but there's somethings that are the same. Maybe just a couple of numbers. Good luck.

Those retired eyes are getting tired. Much love for you Steve! I'm kidding you know.

Do 5 minutes of comparison and you'll see. Zcardepot.com is a straight guy. I paid $250 for my Bosch OE but nla. Beck Arnley has one still I think? I'd stay original if possible but there's a huge difference in money. Check, compare on rockauto.com.

You know Jai I've had a few tall dogs and most likely I'm wrong about that. Anyway spring or fall I'm still a fan of grilling. All these other goofballs call it barbecuing. Barbecue is a noun down here Thank you for noticing my pretty backdrop. I love Alabama but not the politics. Peace out...

Thing's don't change much, I live a simple life. 2011 birthday burgers. 2019 birthday burgers, not quite as pretty I had to use tossed salad because I'm out of lettuce. Thanks for the happy birthdays now I'm going to see how many tall boys I can drink.

I had good outcome with SEM interior white paint. Edit, it was a recoat of old white that had turned to a butterscotch looking interior.

Thank you very much Jai! Many years of driving these Zs for us all.

My '72 starts with 69,???. I knew it was meant to be mine when I saw that. Price helped a lot to.

I was born in the design phase. A clay model at best. Hold up! That'll rock the boat, can't do that.

I loosened mine and played around with it, the spare in the picture and it worked. Give it a try. Mine is almost maxed out to as you can see in the picture. Good luck.

I realize now that's what you're talking about.

Just a thought but how about the bolt on the other side? If you loosen it you may get the other bolt in??? I don't know for sure, sorry.