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As it turns over, does it try to crank at all? The timing could be off? Pull a hose off the intake and squirt some starting fluid in there and see if it hits.

The PCV system is capped off for some reason. If I saw a nylon zip tie on a $50,000 car, I'd get back in my $2,000 car which has many.

Are all the EFI connections plugged in, the one off the battery mainly, and the grounds cleaned? The ECUs sole purpose is controlling the EFI, maybe it's bad and the reason you got it for free?

You should put a cheap fuel pressure gauge on one of the fuel lines. Your return line could be pinched or clogged. Fuel pressure regulator may be bad, is the vacuum hose connected to it? Hard to believe all six injectors went bad. Tap them with a screwdriver to unstick the pintle's valve maybe? You can put the screwdriver handle to your ear and the tip on the injector body and listen for a tapping noise. If they're tapping they are working. Good luck!

I haven't done it yet but I think you move the plug wires on the distributor across from where they are supposed to be. So 153624 one eighty out would be 624153. I think that's right. See the pictures above in that post. Try it and see. The proper way would be to drop the oil pump and retime the spindle gear. The notch on the pump should match the dot on the shaft. I'd do the easy first, move the wires. You should get it at TDC with the front two cam lobes resembling rabbit's ears or a V. The first two valves should be closed, the round part of the cam lobe down on the rockers with the tips facing north west and the other north east. That's the compression stroke where TDC must be. If you set it up on the exhaust stroke the rotor button would be facing the cabin instead of the radiator, that's 180 off. I can help better with pictures but unfortunately I'm on my phone. Sorry for muddying the water, it's Saturday and I've been working in the yard.

I watched "Dinner for Schmucks" the other day for the first time, and heard this; Tim: Jesus Christ! Are you okay?Barry: Ahh, yeah. I'm okay. Is that a Porsche?Tim: Yeah.Barry: Oh wow...I have been hit by a Datsun before, but never a Porsche.

Here's some Nissan numbers you may check around and find. rebuild kit A & kit B http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/master-vac-hose

You may as well be speaking Chinese talking transmissions with me. I paid a guy to tear it apart and fix anything that looked suspect, he said it was in great shape so he'll be looking at it one day next week. I haven't put the console back in yet so I've got the big hole and the shifter doesn't even come close to hitting the sheet metal. I'm seating the rings now and 4th gear is plenty so far. I'm not sure of the gear ratios but this 5spd has a taller 4th gear in my opinion. It is sooooo nice to get in and crank it and go! I love this car.

He's doing a free shipping promo for a couple of days, I got the e-mail the other day, . If you'll call him you might get 10% off too. That was my "thank you" for buying from him, 10% discount on future purchases. Sorry to hear Sweaty Betty's experience with Ryan, he's always been a great vendor in my book.

Happens all the time. You could have the small side of the dizzy drive spindle backwards, small side goes to the front.

Have you got the small wire plugged into the solenoid on the starter? That'll keep it from starting.

Pass. Thank you but I have two sets that I'm too lazy to restore already. I was feeling a little "hoardy".

Shoot some starter fluid in the brake booster bung on the . Intake manifold, that'll let you know if it's fuel related. Pull a plug wire off and see if it's sparking. Look at the AFM again. Make sure the plug is on tight and the ground wire is on one of the mounting bolts.

Ah, the anxiety of the first rebuild. 8^) Read back through your book. You'll get it figured out.

Yes, tap it with a screw driver handle.

Cool! Get it moving then the rest is easy. I think the slow starting is that' the timing needs advancing a little, but that's a guess. You seem to know what you are doing so I'm certain you'll figure this out. Hope I might be able to help somehow.

You should read the msd sheets that came with the coatings, that will answer all your questions. Bare metal needs primed and top coated no matter what you've read. It's a fact of paint 101.

Could you post a few more pictures of the center caps? I'm interested. Thanks.

All I can say is get comfortable, then read until your head hurts then start again the next day. There's hundreds of things to think about before building a Frankenstein motor. Sorry, no simple yes or no. 8^(

One more question. You don't have the T shaped plug on back of the alternator, wonder why? Then how do know which wire goes to F & N? Just curious, no big mystery I don't think. 8^)

I put a 5 speed, '77-tru? wide B, in my 240. 1st through 4th are great and then I tried 5th this morning. Push in the clutch, goes into 5th nice and smooth, release the clutch and it pops out of 5th. I don't know squat about transmissions so any ideas would be appreciated. I know I'll have to carry it to my transmission guy and would like to kinda know what to tell him the reason may be. Thanks all. That aluminum flywheel has taken some getting used to but now I LOVE IT!!! The motor revs so much quicker it reminds me of a motorcycle. I'm banned from motors though so this is close enough. Super high pitch sound like an aftermarket pipe on a crotch rocket.

Is this the same guy that had that convertible in Beverly Hills? His ad was fun to pick apart.

Absolutely. Here's something to read that's helpful, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html it shows where to clean,

If they have the e-brake brackets and my neighbor signs for the delivery where would you rate them overall? 0-10 Thanks for posting this information. They look good.