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Wow! Thank you guys, y'all always pull me through when I'm doing something new. Confidence builders. S30 Jim it's the one I'm selling. The guy is driving over from Baton Rouge and needs to get back so he turn the trailer in and won't be charged for two days. I'm going to meet him south of Birmingham between there and Tuscaloosa.

I'm hauling a 240Z on the dual axle car transport trailer. Someone that's familiar with those might help me out with loading tips. Should I drive it on nose first or back it on? Is there anything I should take caution with besides the obvious? Car has no spoiler or front air dam. 195/70-14s stock wheels and tires. It's going to be a close fit I can tell already. Thanks for any advice. Cliff

I've bought a couple of parts from Advance over the years then I found out about buying online and using a promo code, driving down there and picking it up. Now with smartphones I can go there and get what I need, go sit in my car and order it with the promo code and pay 20% to 30% less. https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

That engine stainless steel bolt kit from Zcardepot.com was very nice for $99, I forgot about that. It has all your exhaust manifold studs with proper lock nuts included. Everything is separately packaged and labeled, very nice. He may have a bearing kit too, I like the way he does things by getting everything together for you and selling it all together as a kit. I would also buy some Aviation Gasket Sealer and a bottle of Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant from Advance Auto with the discount. If you have a store close by, use the "ship to store" option at checkout and pick it up there. No shipping charges. I wasn't too happy with the felpro rear main crank seal and those flat side seals and nails. The second motor i bought a Nissan seal and the side seals, way better in my opinion. I've got those part numbers in a file I can post later.

I bought my parts a little cheaper than what you have shown. If those are Nissan I can understand the difference. I bought all I could from Advance Auto online and used a 30% discount code. I also bought my cam kit from Schneider Cams for $427. I sent in a JAPAN marked cam and they sent me a cut cam (not mine) and the springs plus new retainers and lash pads. I called and talked with them beforehand and the guy told me I would have to buy new rockers or have mine resurfaced to be in compliance with their warranty. I've read dozens of people saying the same as Leon V says above but for another $50 I thought it was worth it. So $500 for a complete cam kit using my cam and rockers. It's their number 270-90F, MSA calls it a Stage III. The Felpro manifold gasket is shaped like a diamond on the exhaust ports to match square and round headers/manifolds. The Nissan matches the square ports on my MSA header perfect, it's the head that I had to grind. Most of the parts you're buying will have their own gaskets, timing cover, water pump and oil pump but it's nice to have the whole kit if you've never put one together. When I did #2 rebuild I bought a Felpro head gasket and that Nissan manifold gasket, used the ones that came with the parts and cut the rest out of gasket material I bought from a chain store. It was only the coolant inlet and outlet and the carburetors. It would be nice if you could find a newer head and rob the oiler cam and towers to put on the E88, plus the spray bar. You'd want a turbo high volume oil pump...blah blah blah. I could go on forever.

Send them to Delta Cams for a resurfacing, $50 and they'll mate up to your reground cam.

Something else you can do is pull the black cover off the AFM and make sure there's no spider webs or anything on the vane or wipe pad. Make sure it moves freely. If the cover is still stuck on with a clean look it probably has never been off so maybe do that when all else fails.

If you put new steel valve seats in that head and the larger valves, do some port grinding to match a Nissan head gasket and unshrouding the valves that head would be a good one. Get some flat tops out of a ZX motor and you'd have a good compression ratio. Those gaskets are still available from Nissan.

I would think the oily build up in the throttle body when cold wouldn't be sticky. As it heats up it would get sticky causing the blade not to completely seal off, high idle like a vacuum leak. Carb cleaner and an old toothbrush works good, be super careful removing that accordian boot it'll crack. I'd probably start at the AFM and take stuff off until you get to the throttle body, those hoses are expensive. There's a lot of stuff out there on high idle or hanging high idle. The BCDD, dashpot, throttle position switch adjustments are in that EFI manual Greg linked.

Squirt some water through the holes on top of the block and see which hole feeds the broken tube. I imagine it's a coolant line but I would find out for sure if it were mine. Once you get the hole figured out there's a colored diagram out there that shows water and oil circuits. Tomorrow Monroe's How to Rebuild L Series engine is all you need and of course this forum. I've rebuilt two with these guys and that book, great combo.

My cob is half uneaten. There's acres and acres of corn in my county but they call it "silage".

I waited out the nut jobs on craigslist and sold the 240 to a real nice guy from Baton Rouge, LA. He calls them "tou fartee's", I could listen to him talk all day. Posted one month ago tomorrow for $6,500 and sold it for $6,000. I had between 50 and 60 people ask about it, got in a couple of cuss fights through craigslist reply function, thank god I didn't put my phone number out there. There's some nut-jobs in this world. Anyway, the Camry will get a good wheeling and it's spot back in the garage.

While the car is off can you spin the fan by hand, more than one complete rotation? On mine when the fan clutch is good they will spin about half to three fourths a revolution with slight effort of your finger. If it spins easily, the oil inside the clutch no good. Cheap and easy to fix, $20.

And "pop-ups"? Most people hate them but not me and my girlfriend, especially in the morning.

Not either of my '72s. That sorta looks like remnant pieces of carpeting? Here's mine, it's the grayish looking one they call jute.

Here's those pics. I hope they make sense @Diseazd @madkaw The later E88 has a straighter edge on the plug mound towards the intake valve, the best I can tell, it's the top one in this photo and has been shaved .040" by a machine shop, the dirty one is untouched early E88 with a bigger plug mound reducing the overall volume of the combustion chamber. Here are the stamps. Later version has the sloppy looking E88, it's the cleaner one on top. Notice how close the "NISSAN JAPAN" is after being cut by the machine shop compared to the lower dirty one. My E31. Notice there is no overhanging material above the plug mounds like the E88 have. I didn't grind that off, I think that is why the E31 has a higher CR than the E88s. Here's Nutty Buddy. Waiting on a command from me. The only one he can't seem to understand is "GET!".

Guy I'll get those photos ASAP. "Crazy" is very kind way to describe mine, I normally use different words. He's almost a year old so I've got one more to go. He has recently figured out I'm the one that turns the door knobs. 180 from my female that passed away, not necessarily bad but completely different.

I can add my experience with nissan hoses. On my original 240s the heater hoses were braided. When I bought the still available replacements they were solid rubber.

That's an unnecessary personal attack against me. 95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars.

175F would be around 300 Ohms for my CTS? I would like to replace my adjustable knob potentiometer with a more fixed style like the small screwdriver style that Fastwoman has. Seems like she set her's at 257 for her car. Maybe I should find a 0 to 500? Thanks. Maybe it was 275? I'll have to find that thread now.

Unplug the cold start valve and see what it does.

Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow.

SB I think you should ditch the Haynes and get a $20 How to Modify Your Datsun by Frank Honsowetz. The things you've been inquiring about lately are thoroughly covered in that, plus it's a good read about older racing setups.

I told them to bring it in tighter, I'm almost 50 and got carded a month or so ago. Turns out the girl just started and was in training, but I was happy for a few days. 8^)