siteunseen

I used an Exedy clutch kit and Beck Arnley slave cylinder and hose on both my 280 and 240 with a five speed swap. I can't figure out why a kit for a 280 won't work on a 240? What's different about them besides the shorter collar which isn't part of the kit? Here's the one I have in both cars and so far they are working fantastic. https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-06009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5D7TE

I went to highschool with a girl we called "bait head".

The date of manufacture is inside the driver's door frame above the latch. Pay a few dollars and have the throw-out bearing pressed on at a machine shop. I hammered on my first one and it whines. The second one I had pressed on, quiet as a mouse.

If the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder is threaded and has a couple of nuts on it it's adjustable. One nut is to lock the other in place. You'll need to loosen them and use a bigger flat head screwdriver on the end of the push rod, it has a slit cut in it, turn it counter clockwise one full turn then tighten the nuts back up and drive it. If it's worse repeat but go clockwise. I honestly can't remember if it needs to be longer or shorter? Good luck. here's the adjustable slave. The ball goes against the fork to push it out and the extra threaded part goes through a hole in the fork.

Your fuel pump could be going bad? I ran a fuel hose with a gauge stuck down inside it to my driver's wiper blade and drove the car. That will let you know if your pressure is constant, even under load. You can "screw" the threads down into a section of hose then put a clamp over it and zip-tie it to the wiper. Go for a drive and see what it does.

My '77 had the opposite problem of your's. It ran like crap up until 2,500-3,000 RPM then it would pull. I finally did the coolant sensor tweak by installing a potentiometer to increase the fuel the ECU was allowing. It's pretty much a volume knob from Radio Shack. I would clean as many electrical connections you can. Then remove the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing and shine it up. They get covered with crud over the years and won't "sense" properly. here's a chart Captain Obvious put together for us to use.

Agree with Diseazed. When I bought a 240 after owning a few 280s I was pleasantly surprised the slave cylinder is adjustable if it's still stock. It was slipping so bad I could hardly get out of my driveway. After reading a little I adjusted it and it would leave a little black mark on the street. Now I have the automatic adjusting one with a 5 speed but I drove it for a year on that old clutch before the swap. You'll need to double check by reading some older threads but I'm thinking you make the slave's threaded rod longer and the clutch pedal push rod longer as well.

I knew you'd figure something out, 2x4 wasn't too good an example, an old shovel handle or piece of pipe fits in between everything. I'm guessing it's the locating dowels holding it. If you do use a putty knife make sure and go under the gasket against the cast iron block.

Get a 2x4 the right length on that overhang on the passenger's side, use a floor jack and come up from the bottom? I'd tap a putty knife in all around the head gasket to break the seal.

That's awesome! Congratulations to Greg, and good to see Futofab supporting our cars.

My favorite troll.

Hey Charles I know you check craigslist but have you seen the 240 motor and transmission in one of the Carolina's for $200?

Earnest T. Bass was the first troll or trowel that I ever heard.

Deal!

Now I can associate that image with a couple of user names, maybe they can use it as an avatar.

My T plug doesn't look like your's. Mine look like Ts. Your's look more like an H. Maybe it has the higher output alternator already?

Here's my dealer add on side trim ends, '77 280.

I agree with Patcon, backfiring through the carbs is a sign of leaning out. It could be something loose on the balance tube or the carburetors? http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/

I'd pull the the hose off the filter and siphon it until you get a mouth full of fuel. Maybe take the fill cap off too for more vent.

Looks like the "chisel tip" on here. https://www.customautotrim.com/body-side-moldings/rivet-on-molding/tip/82/

Thank you all for the suggestions. They have one of these at walmart, $20. Rechargeable, claims it'll run for 30 to 60 days on a charge depending on humidity. I need to get a new middle garage door. Lots of daylight showing around it now so that's why the dehumidifier runs constantly. After selling the red 240 I have some extra cash for the custom sized door and a digital, programmable dehumidifier.

I'm sure you're right Charles, I have mold. I just go by the gauge and it claims 55 to 60 % is okay. I'll let that thing run 24/7. Mold my my eyes red and nose stuffy, is what I tell my Mom.

So glad you're keeping this up and running. I can't imagine my Z experience without that. I hope you can get Kammy's valve adjusting suggestions included. I guesstimate my 5,000 plus replies have at least 500 of your tips I Hoover-ed from you and always got a "Like" from them. I know that I helped people through your detailed work. Now you're on 240s, FANTASTIC! Like you told Hardway, "keep them coming". I'll keep passing the info on to the newer guys. Thank you!

Thank you Phillip. I can take odorless peroxide. it's cheap too. If I took a peroxide bath it would erupt with fizzle like a grade school science project.

May try a diluted bleach and water. Heavily diluted! Or buy a handheld Dirt Devil.