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Are you sure? OK CANCEL

You could get the block and head codes and be certain of what you have.

You have to worry about hitting rebar and ruining the bits ($500 each). The general contractor I used to work for had a Milwaukee core drill, it was close to $3,000 way back when.

It's wired like my '77 I think, original 280 distributor. Looks to have been repaired sometime too. The red and green wires connection box?

I used poly and rubber backs on the t/c rods after reading about them breaking from full poly. Never thought of softening them with small holes. That could be the solution for the poly steering rod coupler that is so hard and causes a twitchy steering wheel. The OE rubber ones are NLA. Good thinking! Did you just drill 1/16, or close, holes around the outer part of the t/c bushings?

Egg on face. Sorry I looked at a head in my spare bedroom to see that water hole then looked at your picture. Looking back those 6 cylinders are a dead give away.

I use muratic acid on ant beds. Works great and seeing them ants tie dying their little t shirts is extra funny.

I poured a gallon of acid in, sloshed for about five minutes. Dumped that in an empty 5 gal. bucket then dumped 2 gallons of water mixed with soda in. Sloshed another 5 mins. Then dumped that into the dirty acid bucket. Looked like the science fair volcanoes spewing foam everywhere. Then a quart of acetone, dumped that. Put the hose of my backpack blower in the filler hole on the tank with all the vents opened back up. Ran for 10 minutes full blast. Then one qt. of red kote. Drained the excess and let it bake in the sun for a week. Next weekend replaced all the vent hoses and put it all back in. No problems so far, 6 years on the 280 tank, 2 on the 240 tank. Best thing I learned between the two tanks was write down the steps and follow them quickly.

I see now your wheels aren't coated after a zoom in and they look great! A 70's 280 parked by a charging station is so funny to me. Great sense of humor and beautiful car. Keep on Z'ing.

I see something to read up on. You're head bolt holes are threaded, mine aren't on that E31. Is that something you did or do all P79s have that? Thanks!

This is what you're speaking of?

Oh! I understand, thank you sir. I used to use water from my dehumidifier for the radiator but then I found gallons for a dollar at the dollar store.

You missed a very important step. Rinse the tank with a gallon or two of water mixed with a lb. box of baking soda. No flash rust. I agree on the por-15, it's a waste of money, red kote does fine for the inside. That por 15 looks great on the outside though, great job. 8^) The soda neutralizes the acid.

Diseazed, is that the water elbow off the head that feeds the heater core? I've got mine plugged now but when I put the new hoses and water kock on the core if I have the heat off (water kock closed) does that stop coolant flow from that you are talking about? I think it will after playing with the functionality of that kock. Hate to hijack but if it's his DD I think he found another form of transportation.

Exedy 6009 is what I bought too, good clutch kits.

I'm sorry for not reading all the post but what makes you think you need a new clutch? I've worn them so bad they wouldn't make it out of the driveway. If it's hard to get in gear it may be the slave cylinder is not extending with the proper force. Maybe just air in the line or a bad slave cylinder? If it's slipping is it persistent or when you first leave out? Maybe a little oil leaking down on it? What sucks is the only way to know if it's worn is measure the depth around the rivets on the friction disc and it has to be taken out to do that. These cars are great when they're right! but bad when they aren't. Best wishes for you and Redbird, Cliff.

I Buy mine at amazon.com. find the cheapest with the most stars. For me I decided on Exedy kit for $100. Read what's included, some are cheaper because the throw out bearing is sold separately and the bronze shaft bearing too. My machinist charged me $40 to resurface my flywheel. It was blue from getting too hot. Yours may not need it but you won't know until you see it. I know money's tight but changing the transmission fluid at the same time is good. It only holds a couple of quarts I think.

You may be running low float levels and the bowls are slow to fill. Soft foot and you can get to 100mph.

When you lift a piston it disables that carb so your only running on 3 cylinders. Tune it so that it idles the same rpms on both when they're disabled. I fortunately have a timing light that shows rpm so it's pretty easy to do for me. Good luck If I remember right it's around 500 rpms, barely running.

Do you have some type of sealer on them that makes them look darker? I'm wanting a set for 305 blue metallic that's faded way beyond patina, more like primerina. The lighter black would look faded, like the car.

You can borrow a compression gauge from chain parts stores "loaner program" I think you may have advanced the timing then possibly ran it too hard and broke a ring in one of the cylinders. A quick and easy check would be to pull the plugs and look for one that is much darker than the rest. Hopefully I'm wrong, as usual.

Not me. Good looking car, I hope the sale does well for you GreekZ. Best of luck.

Contradictory cool.

Those are too nice to run! Put them in baby's bed beside your bed? Make good lamp bases or four corners for a glass coffee table. Maybe jewelry hanging around the necks of a rappers or a smoking device for said rappers. I think my girlfriend needs a present to go along with the cam kit I bought her last year.

Drove it for two hours. Parked in the garage spot, clean cardboard and two hours later drier than the sawdust around my toilet. That problem is gone for the next 20 or 30 years. My nephews will replace the next one if they have sense enough to keep the car? They're pretty rotten kids now, maybe they'll grow up!