siteunseen

Looks similar to the "June bug" paint jobs a lot of Caprices were painted in the late 90s.

That's amazing. You'd be weed eating that fence line and agitate them, they'd hit you like a .22. A friend outside his bedroom window when we were kids. His Dad drank a bottle of something with a cork. When he finished off the whiskey or wine he stuck that cork in the hole that night. Sprayed it with some type poly or varnish and hung it and the limb in his office. It was real cool back then, I haven't seen one since. Early 80s?

I still get parts for my SUs from the dealership. They made as many, if not more, forklifts that use a bunch of the same 2.4 components. Edited, L20s in the fork lifts I'd imagine but still motor parts. I bought a new pair of door scuff plates a month ago. Better than the OE ones and $20 per side. Nothing else uses those so they're still in the parts business money making side. Smart guys. Genuine Nissan ain't repop on ebay.

Yes. There was a pre formed hose right there. I used a 1/2" PEX ninety there. Used two 3/4" PEX 90s to make the big bend on top, 5/8" hose.

I'll do it Monday morning. I need my laptop and have nothing but a phone now. I'll get it fixed up for you but as I said them o-ring groves will be a pain. What you need is a "3D copier" instead of just a printer. I got nothing in the morning pushing so I'll drink my coffee and let my medicine ease in, then I'll put something together plus the drawing Hoover Blue provided with measurements you should have enough info.

You're gonna have to 'esplain what I need to do as far as scanning what you need. Can you go to "windows paint" or similar, take the first scans I sent and get everything to scale then print that?

We gotta a lot of sperm dumpster whales sleazing around here too.

Here's the thread with the new sending unit and a photo of the black and yellow on MY car. I'm thinking the connectors on the SU were different sizes to keep the polarity right. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49439-developing-story/

The glass was touching the needle on mine causing it to stick in certain spots. The SU went bad and the PO tapped the lens so hard it came loose. I used liquid electrical tape on the nail head connectors on the SU. Those things are a one time every 40 years deal, to get them off I destroyed mine. I have the P/N for a 240 SU from Nissan. My local dealership charged me $43 I think and $1 for the o-ring. If you want it let me know and I'll get it out of the file for that car. Cliff

The o-ring grooves will be your PITA.

2.5" long, 2.5" tall. quarter inch thick with o-ring grooves on both sides. I'll leave it off for a couple of days if you need something, let me know. Cliff

Looks like a good car. have fun.

Are we talking about the same thing? Those black spacers in between the carb and the intake? Looks like 6 individuals to me. Left and right?

I've got a Weber 40 and Cannon set up on a shelf in my junk room. I'll get them down soon and see if that gasket is there, if so I can scan it for you. Looking at this picture looks like I have them. Give me an hour or so to get to it, just getting up this morning.

here's the difference in intake ports from my intake to an N42 head that I used instead of a N47 head that came on my '77. Small hole going into a bigger hole on the cylinder head side. I marked the cylinder head holes on a piece of gasket paper then laid them on the intake. Took a sharp scribe and scratched around the smaller intake holes. Then used a grinder to open up and roll the edges like a bugle. Quick and easy way to move more air, more air=quicker revs.

Or paint the carb side with layout dye then press onto gasket material sheet. That works best for me.

I have an N42 head and block, car runs great. '75 and '76 were N42 combos. N47 came in late '76 with round exhaust ports and "liners" to help burn unburnt fuel. They would get glowing hot and all I've read decreased the exhaust flow. If you can find an N42 and port match the intake to the head you'll have a better flowing motor, happier motor.

Yes, be sure and use the little straw condemn and plenty of oil.

So it was a bad o-ring around the sending unit? That was letting air in the system and causing the up and down fuel pressure? That is a new one to remember for me. Glad you got it worked through. Way to go Dad!

I think the engine bay would determine my paint process. Same color as the body or black? I would pull the motor and transmission, paint the bay and undercarriage then the car. Rebuild and reinstall engine and transmission.

I forgot to mark mine too. After alignment I just pulled the wheel and put it back on straight while it was still on the alignment rack at the shop. Before I went I had the horn pad off and the right size socket with me. Plus the guy was nice as hell.

My '72 has grey with blue stripe and grey for it's one and only speaker. The blue with white is power and then red/blue is dash lights. Here's something neat I found for when I add more sound, 5x7s mount in the brake light access panels.

Mine is held up by the injectors. My next money will be those plug wires around the front. That's nice, real nice.

WilloughbyZ supplied perfect measurements, about 3/4s down on the 1st page. I sandblasted mine for a nice satin finish.

That's why I posted it. Glad you could make sense of my rambling. It looks good. Your whole engine bay looks good!