siteunseen

+1 for a lighter flywheel. I have an aluminium one that is a lot of fun to drive. Takes a minute to get used to it but that's it, then "vrooooooom, vrooooooooom!" like a street bike.

I've read where people get the right color from a PPG supplier. http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Did you leave the dished pistons or go with flat tops? I'm curious as to whether I can swap out my dished with some flats from a ZX motor and top it with an N42 head I am currently running without any problems from too much compression on pump gas. Thanks for a reply.

http://www.rebelloracing.com/nissan1.htm You'll need to call them to get a ballpark price. After reading on here for quite a few years about frustrated buyers of heads off e-bay from California Datsun I would steer clear of him. Al Allen is his name I think? Somebody could have a good one on here. @madkaw had one not too long ago. maybe start a new thread, "looking for a complete cylinder head" or something similar. Good luck. Cliff

I found a 70's Chrysler block paint from Dupli-Color matches my original color better. For each his on, 6 of one half dozen of the other... 1972 OE color... 2016 Chrysler color...

Some things are best done manually, by hand etc. Ask around.

Dad gum unforeseen circumstances SUCK! I may get rid of my '77 for the same reasons. Good luck with your sale!

Blind men and an elephant. Never heard that one before Captain, funny. "The moral of the parable is that humans have a tendency to project their partial experiences as the whole truth, ignore other people's partial experiences, and one should consider that one may be partially right and may have partial information."

Very nice! I remember when I first bought mine I couldn't back out of my driveway from the slipping clutch. Came on the forum and found out how to adjust the slave cylinder.

It could be one of the plugs from the console? There's two, one to the choke light and I can't remember the other. Just woke up. Where's your fuse block?

Thanks for that. I work on a lot of stuff, make mistakes sometimes. At least I could provide the correct part numbers.

Probably shouldn't have mentioned that. If you have issues elsewhere it might not work. But here's what I've done before. turn they key to on and make sure it's in neutral. Touch the two leads on the solenoid with a screwdriver. It'll arch and scare you when it does but it should force the starter to spin. Have you tried pushing or pulling it in gear as another way to start?

I'm not sure I'd do a picnic at my local pick and pull! They're scavengers like me. I lock my doors on my pick up for sure. They'd sale parts of my drive up!

You can always use a srewdriver to jump the post on the starter. Bypasses all the BS switches but you'll still need to find and fix the problems. Are you sure the dash light dimmer knob is turned all the way up? Other than that, it could be in the combo switch on the right side of the steering wheel. Sounds to me like somebody has done some hacking and splicing without reading the directions. Like a so called doctor taking out your kidney. Good luck man!

Red with a blue stripe was the radio power on my 240. Do you have the OE deck or something newer, or maybe nothing at all? It powers the radio through the ignition switch.

Here's my bead blasted then plugged up with brass NPT plugs. They are not the correct thread but worked fine into the soft aluminium. Thanks for that information Mr @Bruce Palmer

Oh yeah, put that back in the cover before reinstalling. Every unpainted 240 I've ever seen has scratches on that strut tower from that bolt.

If you've installed the tank pull the fill cap off so it can breath the fumes out. Looks really good inside and out.

I have to leave that wingnut in the cover when removing. Just get it loose and leave it in and pull the cover.

Tank looks good! You say they baked it to cure the liner? I learned, after a lot of reading, to not put fuel in until the smell of the Red-Kote is completely gone.

I run the oe rear bumper for safety and the 240 bumper up front for looks with a xenon front spoiler. Kinda bass ackwards as I drive my 240 with thin bumpers front and rear more than than the 280. I always think of those old Pinto public safety commercials. $350 for a boil out and recoat!?! I may start a side business for the busy, 'cause I'm not too busy and enjoy pouring the muratic acid on all these damn ant beds on my property.

yes you can but you'll have to remove the oil pump, take the spindle drive out then remove the distributor and come in with a steel rod flatenened like the spindle gear and spin it counter clockwise or reverse on your drill. I found the thread that explains it all. here's mine running half speed on a drill, be careful or it'll shoot out running on high.

The cold gap for setting the lash on these motors is .010" for the exhaust and .008" for the intakes. I bought a similar unfinished project that came with triple webers and a over bored .030" block with dished pistons. I never fooled with that stuff though and ran the dual SUs carbs like you have pictured and the stock 2.4 motor. Great running fun car that never gave me any trouble. Your SUs in one picture is missing the vent bung on top of the float chamber lid. It looks good to me as is. I'd put some molly grease on the cam lobes and pour 10W-30 all over the rest, especially the timing chain, and turn the cam sprocket bolt with a 27mm socket by hand to make sure it's not binding. Plugs out with some oil squirts in those 6 holes too. Good luck. Oh yeah, a great book to get that helped me go from outboard boat motors and dirt bike engines to the L series Nissan's https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

I apologize for forgetting to do this earlier but here is a picture that should give you the basics of what I did on the 5/8" evap hose on top of my fuel tank, the 180 degree bend. 3/4 PEX elbow fits 5/8" fuel hose nice and snug, use the worm clamps like in this picture. I laid the old hose on the floor and copied the bend with the new hose and PEX fittings. If you need anything else let me know. Cliff

You might find something useful with these pictures. My 9/76 280. I used this write up to repair mine a few years ago. Mainly cleaning the carbon off and flipping the plates over to make better contact. I'd lost my dash lights but wound up with brighter headlights too. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf