siteunseen

I just read the Princess and Prince are moving to Canada. Now they can smoke legally. Rich people problems.

Ms Fairlady? Is that a pun for lady justice or a talking Nissan car?

I agree with the others and should have kept my mouth shut. When I bought my 280 it was my hobby of the moment so I read all I could find. Then rebuilt the motor and deleted a bunch of stuff. My thinking was less is best so I quickly bought a 240. If you can spend $70 and keep it stock buy a new accordion boot and consider yourself lucky.

I'll look at mine tomorrow and see if I can splain better with my laptop.

Google "coil pack conversion classiczcars.com"

I ran my valve cover hose to the backside of the throttle blade to keep it cleaner. They get sticky after a while. The efi cars are so effected by closed up intakes that I can't see how that would work very well. Remove the oil cap and see how it dies down. The 240s seem to run good without them, I've seen that a lot. I've seen it on 280s too it just doesn't make sense.

Living in Ohio you might need it. If it's a '78 you should be good unless a previous owner rerouted them somehow. My '77 came off the valve cover and crudded up the throttle body.

That's for the Auxiliary Air Regulator for cold start up. Feeds it more air to raise the rpms. I deleted mine so it's not an issue. It's not too cold down here especially in my garage. Whatever year you have if you plan to keep it I'd reroute the hoses like the '78s. They don't use greasy air from the valve cover. Here's a '78. zcardepot.com has them for $70. https://zcardepot.com/products/air-intake-maf-afm-hose-oem-280z-280zx?variant=19277905297521&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2YeUnYzy5gIVipyzCh2h7QeVEAQYASABEgLuffD_BwE

I thought about cold air intake hoses years ago when I first got the 280 I have now. https://www.google.com/search?q=cold+air+intake+boot&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyz7K_gvLmAhVBm-AKHauFDdUQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1280&bih=606&dpr=1.25 O'reilly's has some that look workable. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/air-intake-hose-12338/e51bf1f186bc

Who'd a thunk Wilwoods would be used as "plan A", you know, to STOP.

Maybe wrong on retard vs advance?

That line should look like your example pic above. If it's even with the U cut out, its retarded. Moving the cam sprocket to the next number will fix that.

That's what she said!

Here's mine. If you need more let me know. And the reason my wires are different colors than the instructions above is I found a ZX in a junkyard. Got the dizzy adapter and about 4ft. of the ZX wiring harness then spliced it into the 240's wires.

Nope.

Should be 1.5 for the zx. 3.0 for the z. I run a Crane Fireball PS20. Seems perfect for the last 3 or 4 years?

I followed the diagram on "blue's tech tips zx distributor on a z". Google that and go to the next to last drawing I think. It had to be easy, mine works great.

Zx dizzy with stock tach is what I have on my '72. No problems at all.

Get a new tail shaft seal I thinks it's called. I used one of those rubber end caps, 2" I think" on my trans end to keep it from spilling out. That stuff is nassstayyyy!

So zinc isn't your favorite hair product like Kentucky jelly?

Show us a picture and maybe you'll figure out what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again.

Same here, that's wrong and causing higher pressure in your fuel delivery circuit. Can't think of a reason that was done but it took some effort to do so who knows? You should get another fuel rail in my opinion. Look in our classifieds, there was a few brand new replated ones for pretty cheap. @jfa.series1 has them if they're not sold yet. He's in Texas too and if I'm not mistaken you are located somewhere around there. Good luck. Cliff

I can't understand how that could be but anything is possible I guess. I would use a small gas can for the supply hose to the fuel pump then another smaller clear one for the return. 3/16" off the fuel rail at the front of the cylinder head. I can explain better with a picture later this morning when I get back home.

Whens it's jacked up, to get under there, it will drain proper. Put a new crush copper washer on the drain plug if it looks old. Don't over tighten the plug and since it's a swapped out 2.8 make sure you have the right dipstick. 240s are different than 280s. The numbers are on the dipstick and you'll find the info on the one you need to use. Google "difference in dipsticks classiczcars.com"

That's what I thought Dennis! That's a damn house payment, nice house too around here.