Captain Obvious

I've messed with it a bunch. Couple years ago Blue and I also measured the mixture effect that screw caused. He gave my car a rectal and monitored the mixture numbers while I changed the screw setting. I've got notes around here somewhere, and when I put my finger on them, I'll post them. And I'm not surprised that screw did not have a direct effect on manifold vacuum. That screw is upstream of the throttle plate, and while it might result in a tiny tiny change in flow resistance, the majority of the vacuum is going to be developed across the plate in the throttle body. Sure, messing with that screw could 1) change the mixture, which in turn could 2) change the RPM, which might 3) change the vacuum reading... But not a direct "flow path restriction" related effect.

I got info. Lots! Of course most of it is completely useless, but I got lots of it!! Happy to share!

Maybe that part of the documentation was instructions on how to dispose of the old struts? Drill a small hole to release the pressure first, and then chuck them. I hate the international "icon only" based instructions. I wonder if they make sense to people in other parts of the world, because they certainly don't make sense to me at this part of the globe.

I was wondering the same thing. I don't think that's OEM. z boy mn, What makes you so sure that bolt was grade 10.9? It has the grade marked on the head? As an aside... I verified the FSM spec, but 50 ft-lb sure seems a lot for a bolt that size.

Actually the factory carbs for your 74 were "Flat Tops". Many people replace them with other carbs like the "Round Tops", or Webers. Which ones are you interested in hearing pros and cons? Because if it involves Webers, I'm not your guy... I know nothing about them.

Increasing the resistance increases the fuel. And there's absolutely no way you should need an additional 1K worth of resistance to get it to run right. There is something else way wrong somewhere else that you're trying to compensate for with that resistor. No way, no how.

I figured that was gonna happen! I was thinking of you when this thread popped up!

The link to 240zlover777 came from the original auction that started this whole thing: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123002344687 Back when this all started, that auction was under the name whitelotus909, but if you take a look at it now, it's listed under the name 240zlover777. And you know it's the same guy because the negative feedback from nix240z is there and the auction number is the old one:

I'd hate to have that thing wiggle under use too. That would be bad. I believe however, that if the locknut is doing it's job, that shouldn't happen. Good luck however you proceed!

Glad to help. My pleasure I would take the opportunity, however, to point out that even the simple 240 had the exact same feature. It just looked different. The "Throttle Opener" system on the 240Z's is the exact same thing as the 280's BCDD system. Does the exact same thing... Limits intake manifold during high vacuum deceleration conditions. So your 240 has it too, they just called it something different, and they didn't hook it to the speedometer. And now that I think about it... I believe they started hooking the throttle opener system to the speedo in 74, so that speedo may be suitable for the 260 as well as the 280s. TMI?

Me too.. I wouldn't worry about that. Maybe hit it with some 600 grit to make sure there aren't any burrs kicked up from the scratching, but other than that, I'd go ahead and leave it.

Of course! Haha!! The BCDD system is part of the emissions system on the 280's. It limits the intake manifold from going sky high under deceleration and making the mixture go all wonky (technical). It limits unburned hydrocarbon under deceleration. The system is only activated once the vehicle speed is above 10mph, and they detect that threshold using the speedometer. There's a tiny little switch inside the unit and that white electronic nubbin (technical again) on the back is an amplifier that takes the signal from the tiny switch and boosts the power allowing it to control devices that need more power than that tiny switch could provide.

I'm sure you probably already know why this happens, but just in case... There are no real seals on the seam between the nozzle and the cylinder in which it slides up and down in the carb body. You don't really need a seal there as long as it's a good precision fit. Sure, it'll leak a tiny amount of air up through that seam when the engine is running, but not enough to matter. Also, under normal circumstances, that seam never sees liquid fuel. But if the bowl level is high enough, and the nozzles are pulled down far enough, that seam will be exposed to liquid fuel. And it's not meant to be liquid tight. If there isn't engine vacuum to pull that fuel up, it'll leak down (as you found out). Natural gas water heater?

Perfect! Sounds like me. I'd much rather be up to my elbows in anything mechanical or electrical than anything to do with bodywork!

It's a 280Z speedo with the 10mph dropout detector for the BCDD system. Oh, and it does have numbers on it. It goes from 10 to 160 just like all the others.

The locknut "locks" everything into place when it's tightened, so I'm not sure I'd worry about it. Unless the threads are so loose that you're worried you'll actually pull the outer tie rod off the inner, then that floppy thread should be immaterial. If the inner tie rod end is tight and doesn't have any play at the rack end, I'm thinking it doesn't matter and I wouldn't burn money just to replace that. So it's a loose female thread spec. Maybe by accident, and maybe on purpose to save costs on the assembly line. But in application, since the threads are pulled into tension with the locknut, I don't think it really matters. IMHO.

Good!

Advanced search in the upper right, and then scroll down to almost the bottom of the page and you can enter a seller's name. I put whitelotus909 in there and it came up "One or more of the seller User IDs you entered was not found." And just as a test, I picked a random ebay vendor that had a bunch of auctions running and made sure their stuff showed up correctly.

Excellent. I love it when a plan comes together. I assume your door closing issues that started this entire debacle have been remedied?

I spy with my little eye... Glassed on rear spoiler and glassed in fender flares on the rear? And unless it's the camera angle, it looks like the two sides aren't very symmetric? Might just be the lighting, but it looks like the left rear arch is higher than the right rear? How are you with body work? Oh, and a brick on the floor at the driver's feet. That's never a good sign. Good luck with the father-son project. That's awesome!

I've got a moustache bar here from a 74 260 and it has the solid bushings. I don't know for positive, but I believe they are the ones that came from the factory and have never been replaced. I'm assuming they softened the whole mounting scheme over the years to reduce noise from the diff. I'm guessing they just kept reducing the contact points over time (with slots in the bushings and wavy end washers, etc) until they got the noise down to where they stopped getting complaints? I'm getting ready to put the slotted bushings in my 77 bar, but I need to figure out something for the upper and lower rubber washers first. Acemon, Were you thinking of trying to mold up something for the wavy washers too, or just the bushings? Also, the material you ordered... Is it rubber (that needs to be vulcanized), or is it polyurethane?

As long as they are clearly identified as reproduction parts and are not (even remotely) misleading to be NOS or made by the OEM, then I have no problem with repros either. It's great to have sources for NLA parts. Just don't try to pass them off as the genuine originals. At any trading venue... ebay, craigslist, etc. So I wonder why the vendor changed his ebay name. The 'whitelotus909' no longer exists. Now it's '240zlover777'. The previous feedback seems to have ported over to the new name.

Very nice. Those results are fantastic. So how do the results differ from straight up bead blasting? In other words... Would the parts have looked much different if you were using s standard bead blasting cabinet?

Actually I believe the choke action has little to do with the fuel level, but is all about the larger gap between the needle and the nozzle. When you drop the nozzle, what you are effectively doing is pulling the needle out of the nozzle and enlarging the jet size to richer the mixture. Larger jet, more fuel.

Cool! Can't wait to see how it works!