Captain Obvious

Here's a pic of what happens when you try to press a bearing in at an angle. You can see the semi-circular mark on the far side where they gouged the cylinder wall that is supposed to locate the bearing. That raised bump was pushing the bearing to one side and not letting it seat square. I used a hand file to dress the high spots back level. This pic is about halfway done. I considered using a dremel with a small grinding wheel, but last thing I wanted to do was slip. It took way longer doing it by hand, but I wanted the control that I could not achieve with a power tool:

My pleasure. Glad to help. So did you see the pic of the aftermath of the party? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60026-friends-over-for-a-party-in-the-shop-yesterday/ So to provide a little more info about Matthew's bearings... The shop that had previously worked on the car really screwed things up. They had forced the spindle pin tapered retainer pins into place without having the spindle pin located properly. This not only ruined the taper pin, but raised a huge burr on the (brand new) spindle pin and we had to use the hydraulic press just to get the spindle pin out. And the problem that Matthew originally noticed when he got the parts back from the shop was that the stub axle didn't spin freely, and had significant tight and loose spots when it spun. We traced this issue to a huge burr kicked up inside the strut housing on the bearing surface from them pressing the bearing in cockked at an angle. In other words... It wasn't straight, wouldn't go in, and they just kept applying more force instead of stopping to figure out what the problem was. We dressed the upset material (high spots) off the inside of the strut housing and cleaned and inspected everything to make sure there weren't any other surprises. Once the burrs were removed, the new bearings went in fine and everything spun perfect. We dressed the burrs off the spindle pins, and after that, they went back into the housings OK as well. And if that's not enough... They had ground down one of his distance pieces on a belt sander. Not only was it not square on one end, but it was also now almost .100 too short. When you tightened the stub axle nut, it would pull the inner races together so tight that you couldn't turn the axle. And they're professionals!! I chucked up the distance piece in the lathe today and squared up the end. Won't ever be able to be reused for a distance piece, but it sure makes a handy drift for doing future wheel bearings. Into the box of misc stuff that lives next to the hydraulic press! It was a good day in the shop.

Well I consider the term "butcher" a little extreme... I was suggesting that there may be a possibility to "modify" the wrong harness to "convert" it to the design you desire. With the right tools, you can remove the electrical contacts from the plastic shell and then re-insert them without damage. I was thinking there might be a possibility you could do that to the harness and end up with what you desired. Take the part number label off (to avoid future confusion), and use it on your car. I know the chances of success of that plan the be very small but non-zero. Thought I would toss out the suggestion. A good condition (but wrong) harness isn't worth as much to you as one that does what you need.

Steve, Well that's definitely the same car. That for sale ad on Hemmings looks legit. Someone probably just copied the pics and started scamming. Zed Head, The craigslist ad is already gone. But curiously... It doesn't say that it was flagged for removal. It says it was deleted by the author. I've corresponded a little with the scammer already, and I've considered sending them another message and stringing it out some, but I just have the interest. Unless someone has any good ideas, I'm just going to let it die.

Can't say I blame him. I wouldn't want to produce and sell something for brakes, or seatbelts, or anything that held a wheel on.

Love it! You put towels down so you don't scratch the paint?

Anyone know who's car this is? It's being used for a craigslist scam.

Haha! I should have put out an open invite, huh? Would have loved to have you over too! By the time we got to number four strut, it was "almost easy". Once you figure out the best order of events and which spacers, drifts, and little bits and pieces to use... It's almost assembly line.

Darn right. It was epic! Two more Z's with tight new rear bearings headed for the road soon!!

Well then that's extra awesome that was truly the first real start. Great work! If you want, I'll look in my box of stuff for a TVV. I've switched over to a completely different throttle body and I don't need the TVV anymore. If I've got one, I'll send you the one from my 77. Sorry to have steered you wrong on the 78 version.

And there was some beer involved. And grease. Lots of grease. The aftermath: You, my friend, definitely earned your keep yesterday!

That's awesome! And I would recommend putting some brake lines on the master cylinder before you put some miles on it. So... Was that really the first start? Or did you start it a couple minutes before just so you wouldn't look like a doofus cranking and cranking and cranking?

No worries. So what year are you working on here? And my guess for that two position connector continues to be illumination bulbs. And based on the location in the car (which can now be seen in the wider angle shot ), I'm suggesting the bulb that lights up the gear shift position. Maybe that connector is supposed to tuck lower and go to the gear shift?

I'm confused. I'm not sure what connector you are even interested in... In the first pic (of the wiring documentation) you centered the camera on a three position connector labeled LW/R/LR. But then in the second pic you are showing a two position connector with G/W and R/B. So which connector are you asking about? And close-up pics are great, but "context" could be more easily obtained if you were to pull the camera back a little. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blind_men_and_an_elephant

Green/white and red/blue is usually instrumentation lighting. Dash lights, HVAC illumination, ash try light... That sort of thing. I can't tell from that close-up where that connector is, but I suspect it's for a bulb somewhere.

Yes, the metal mounts. I can get the plastic part if it's cracked. But I don't have the metal "L"s to put the plastic on.

Sweet. And if you want to swing by PHL and pick me up, I'd be happy to give you a hand. I got just one good arm right now, but I'll do what I can!

Got something else... If any of them still have the engine, I need the spark plug wire loom brackets. The divider thingies that bolt to the valve cover.

Do we get to vote?

Yeah, same thing at the P-n-P yards near me. When I go, I look like I'm going on safari. Everyone else looks like they're out for the weekend for good behavior.

Nice. I'm not a fan of most painted valve covers, but I gotta admit... I like that one.

I have no idea what the differences are between the harnesses, but is there the possibility you could remove and reposition the contacts from the connector shell(s) to convert what you have into what you need?

Yes, evap, vapor, CARB... All the same thing. I wasn't correcting you at all. "Evaporative emissions control system" is the official name in the FSM. You were closer to that than I was. It's all good! The evap system uses that goofy check valve-ish device between the tank and the carbon can. You can see that device hanging out in this pic, near the bottom: On the tank side of that check valve, there could be some pressure buildup (due to a purposely high "cracking pressure"). But on the carbon canister side, there should never be any measurable pressure in that line. Point is... If it passes air, you should be OK. Smoosh it a little, or just let it be. The LAST thing I would do is cut it and introduce more leak points in the system.

Gotcha. So when you go back, pull off the brake master cylinder first. Easy-peasy and no flight suit required. Easy job up in the engine compartment. Once the M/C is off, take a look at the area where the master bolts to the booster... If it's clean and dry inside and not wet with brake fluid, then we're a GO. If it's all rusty and paint a-peelin from brake fluid, then just leave it. But if it is clean and dry, then the rest of the work is done down by the pedals. One pin with retaining clip, and four nuts. I've been able to reach all that stuff kneeling outside the car. I haven't had to resort to laying down face-up on the car floor. Not that bad. A bad day at the junkyard beats a good day at work. And much thanks if you grab one for me!!

That is the vapor vent line. If it passes air, it's probably fine the way it is. But if you get energetic, you might just smoosh the outward bump back in a little. That might help open up the ID a tiny bit more. If it bugs you.