cgsheen1

Hmmm, that's one switch that I've never taken apart... Now you have me curious. I think I'll see if I have a spare and drill out the rivets.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

I saw that too...

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.

I'm no expert but in the inertia switches I've installed I've mounted them to a hard point so any energy exerted on the unibody could be picked up by the switch.

Both are under the center dash. In the blower switch harness is a BLUE that is A/C power. And there is also a 2-pin connector with a B/W and a G for power to the fuel pump. I always put an inertia switch in that circuit.

Like the Z's here in ARIZONA...

Outstanding.

Yup, and those pillars are a bit more complex than they look from the outside. I've cut apart a few Z's and the lower center section isn't as strong as one would hope - I'm sure you're careful in it's support with the roof skeleton removed. I'll be interested in how you reconnect the center sheet metal in the pillars. There are an awful lot of people who painted over that Yellow...

Maybe this is the point where you decide which you want most - working tach or good running engine... Back when I learned to drive - and for years thereafter - cars didn't come with tachometers. They ran and we drove them all over the place anyway. (but, from the factory that car ran VERY WELL with a stock coil, a stock ballast resistor, a stock distributor, AND a stock tachometer. Just sayin')

Okay, cool. thanks for the correction.

Easy test, take the ballast RESISTOR out of the equation: Take the G/W wire OFF the ballast, hook it up to the B/W that's connected to the other end of the ballast. Run the engine. Is it better? Is it worse? Don't notice a change at all? (Better: leave the ballast out - figure a good way to connect the G/W and B/W permanently cuz VOLTAGE. Worse: hook it back up the way it was. No diff: Hook it back up the way it was - if you're sure there was no change.) (I haven't said yet what I'd really recommend which is: replace all your harness wiring, especially the engine bay harness which suffers the most degradation over 50+ years of living on this Earth... Few people listen - even me - I'm just barely doing that in my own car (and it turned 50 last year).)

O.P., you should probably pull a spark plug or six and see if (how much) they are sooted up. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on an EFI engine is "vacuum referenced" or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) referenced. Meaning it has a hose connection to the intake manifold. The FPR is supposed to maintain a fairly constant fuel pressure differential with the manifold pressure. Nissan uses 2.5 BAR or 36.3 PSI as the required differential. That means WITH the engine NOT RUNNING and fuel pump RUNNING the pressure to the fuel rail and injectors should ~36.3 PSI. When the engine IS running, the FPR will SUBTRACT the manifold pressure while under VACUUM or ADD the manifold pressure if under boost (positive manifold pressure). You don't need to consider boost. But, say you have 10 PSI of VACUUM while the engine is running at idle, your pressure at the fuel rail and injectors should be ~26.3 PSI (36.3 - 10 PSI). First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. The Electronic Ignition Module figures out when to send a signal for the coil to fire - it gets the information from the distributor electronics (pretty sure - I haven't handled the original Bosch L-Jetronic for a blue moon...) Second: Have you tried operating the engine WITHOUT the cold start valve? Disconnected from wiring and/or fuel? (IS your engine only running on the cold start fuel??)

Stock wire? How green (or brown, I mean oxidized) is the copper? That's a long run between the ignition switch and coil. Oxidation = increased resistance. If you take the ballast out of the circuit is it better?

First thing - the AFM does indeed have a wiring connector, it's of Bosch design (as is the entire EFI system in your Z) and it's, like most Bosch connectors of that era, a PITA to remove. If your AFM is in place it will be difficult to see as it's underneath all that. Second thing - you really need to make sure the injectors are opening. It's sort of easy if you have the right stuff, and can be done in place IF you know how to release and remove the BOSCH injector connectors... If for instance you HAD a spare Bosch injector connector with a pigtail, you could put it on each injector in sequence and use a 9-volt battery to quickly apply and remove voltage to the pigtail wires. Yes, a 9-volt battery will open an injector. If you hear the distinct CLICK of the injector opening you can immediately rule out the "crapolla, the injector is stuck closed". (here I have to say: one side of the battery needs to be permanently connected, the other (doesn't actually matter which) needs to be loose so you can just tap the exposed wire end to the bare pole quickly. You DO NOT want to hold voltage to the injector except for a very brief period of time - that's how they work, milliseconds... IF STUCK they in truth need to be pulled and cleaned (and flow balanced) by a professional shop OR replaced - BUT most of the time I can get a stuck injector opening again by rapidly tapping the wire for awhile (several seconds or more) until I hear it clicking. That may help you in your effort to get it running even if things are not all perfect. The injector is a coil (an electromagnet) so both of those spade connectors are actually tied together by the coil. You should see that when testing with an Ohm Meter - leads placed on the two should show a steady Ohm value. If that circuit is OPEN, the injector is bad and you can't fix it. Now, you can also test that the injectors are getting voltage - they should ALWAYS show battery voltage if the Ignition switch is in the ON (or Start) position. And, because it's a coil, you WILL see voltage on BOTH sides IF the harness wiring is connected to the injector. If the injector connector has been removed you will see battery voltage ON ONE SIDE of the connector an not the other. The ECU asserts a ground to the other side of the connector to open the injector and, like I said, this happens FAST. You will never see this activity with a meter (oscilloscope yes). Because they are basically a coil IT DOES NOT MATTER which side gets power and which gets a ground signal. Most people wire the "hot" side consistently to one side of the connectors, BUT they don't have to! There is NO "+" side or "-" side. If there was, the injector would tell you.