Walter Moore

Your intake manifold appears to fit the early cars. (I see 4 screw carbs...) I would guess that the picture of the 71 hose is the part that would fit the manifold. Whether or not it would interfere with something on your rather unique setup, only you will know. (Unhappily, you may only know after you try it.)

Heh, we had an entry in a local car show that was an early 50's Ford V8 flat head. He titled the entry "Flat tops and flat heads". I thought it was clever.

Impressive. Obviously the rebuilt calipers from the generic parts stores don't get this level of attention. What does it cost to restore calipers to this level?

Apparently the description didn't translate well, because I have no idea what the term "oil cacht can" means.

Pictures would help, but as mentioned earlier there is no "frame" to replace. There are "frame rails" that extend under the engine compartment which is the link that SteveJ posted I assume.

I assume that you were measuring from one post of the ballast resistor to ground. What do you see on the other side? On a car with points, when the points are open it should be the same. On the 1976, there is a pickup point where this would also be true. If in fact you only have 1.5V on the high side of the ballast resistor, then you have a corroded connection between the ignition switch and the resistor. Or possibly between the fuse box and the ignition switch. It could also be in the switch. On a points car, when the key is in the position to actuate the starter it by-passes the resistor. I haven't studied the FSM for the later cars to see if this was the case on the cars with electronic ignition.

I looked and looked at your setup before I noticed that you have a Maxima head. Are you calculating this clearance, because I don't understand how you could measure this. I assume that any clearance is better than none. As the valves and block heat up the valve and other parts may grow slightly taking up some of your clearance, but I would be hard pressed to believe that they would grow by enough to use up 1.6mm. Isn't the intake valve bigger than the exhaust valve? How much clearance does it have?

What kind of lights do you have, and what wattage are they? Have you added any power hungry accessories, like electric fans? The ZX alternator doesn't put out very much current at idle. I have the 70 amp ZX Turbo alternator, but at idle with the lights on if my high current electric fan kicks on the voltage drops to battery. I have street legal 55W/65W H4 bulbs in my headlights by the way, and an after market volt meter that I have verified against my multimeter. You need to check the voltage readings with a reliable volt meter. If you really have 15.5V at speed then the regulator is shot and you will boil your battery.

I am not sure when they became part of the Goodyear family. I know that it was at least as early as 2004 because in that year we made a number of machines for Goodyear and one was shipped to a Dunlop plant. Goodyear and Sumitomo have some kind of relationship as well, so that may be how they acquired Dunlop. I do not remember the details of the Goodyear/Sumitomo relationship, but I do not believe that it is an ownership stake, just a strategic partnership. I seem to remember that it only applied to medium truck tires, but I could be wrong. Dunlop is owned by Goodyear, but they operate independently. They still have their own factories and quality control systems. They are not like Kelly Springfield which has become little more than just a name on the sidewall and nothing else.

Sounds Interesting.

Dunlop is owned by Goodyear, and they have become sort of a second tier brand in my opinion. (based on what I read on Tire Rack's customer reviews.) Bridgestone owns Firestone, and a large portion of the Bridgestone tires sold in the U.S. are made in Firestone plants. If you are considering the Dunlop, you may want to look at the Goodyear Eagle GT, and if you are looking at a Bridgestone tire you should look at the Firestone lineup as well, because in both cases they are the same company, at least in the U.S. Now outside of North America the story is often different.

Looks like a lot of work mechanically, and to really get the full power potential you will need to cobble up the engine control unit from the Mustang. If you are only as you say "moderately mechanically inclined" I suggest that you get help with the things you don't understand. On the other hand a 400HP engine in a 2400 - 2800 lb car would be interesting. Better upgrade the brakes (think Wildwood style 6 piston calipers in the front and 4 piston in the back), a roll bar, and your daughter may need to spend some time at a racing driving school, because this thing would be a monster.

This is the muffler that I used, and it was just a little too fat. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24215/

Arne, Do they still sell/use those bubble type headlight aiming tools? At one time all headlamps sold in the U.S. had three points cast into the lens for the vertical aiming tool. Mostly those didn't do much except keep oncoming traffic from being blinded by your low beams.

Try using a cobalt drill bit. They are harder and stronger than normal bits, and are intended for just this application. I am not sure if you have a Tractor Supply store nearby, but that is where I bought my most recent set. They are expensive however...

I put a glass pack on my MSA system in about that place. One issue is that the pipe runs really close to the side of the transmission tunnel, and the sausage muffler ended up touching the body. I put some heater-hose spacers in to keep the distance, but for those who aren't happy with "shade tree mechanics slop" you may end up having to do some custom bending.

Wow! Someone went to a lot of effort to switch to down-draft carbs!

The 5MPH bumpers were strictly a U.S. requirement.

I have a poster of a NISMO-Z. Would that help? ;-)

Assuming that the photo isn't photo-shopped, I assume it was taken in the 70's, when no one wanted those cars because of the single digit gas mileage, and the demand for hard to find high octane fuel. I remember an article from one of the car magazines in the early 80's (C/D I think...) where they found some guy who was using one as a daily driver. He bought it because he was a carpenter and the wing in the back made it easier to HAUL LUMBER! One man's junk is truly another man's treasure.

Leaded gasoline was not banned in the United States until 1996. See these sources: http://worstpolluted.org/projects_reports/display/66 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline http://www.epa.gov/history/topics/lead/02.htm So a car that had been parked since 1989 (as was stated by the author of the thread) would likely have lead anti-knock compound residuals in the exhaust system.

Check the compression on the #6 cylinder. Except for item 10 of your list, everything else seems to eliminate ignition. The valve cover isn't necessarily a good ground, so you might not see a visible spark with the plug just touching the cover.

Pine needles... something in my memory is screaming at me about that... Oh! there was a thread here somewhere about pine needles clogging up the cowl drains in the front fenders. You need to check that any water that enters the cowl vent area drains out of the fenders right in front of the door. Someone had a problem with the drains getting clogged from leaves or needles and water accumulated in the fenders causing them to rust out.

Good luck. (Per your request...)

Wasn't a "corn dodger" some type of fried biscuit from an John Wayne movie? (He says revealing his age...)