Walter Moore

I think he meant evaporative losses were happening WHILE you are filling the tank and the gas cap is open. That is the purpose of the large round disk that covers the tank opening (in some places) when you put the gas nozzle in the opening. It blocks the opening and is intended to prevent fuel vapor emissions. In places where the EPA has mandated stricter air pollution controls the gas nozzles have active vapor recovery systems. And aren't gas pumps supposed to be re-calibrated as the weather conditions change? Otherwise in the dead of winter the gas station would lose money like mad.

Not that I am overly interested at this point, but would these R180 gear sets work in a 240Z? http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_r180-rp-set115mm Hey, it's only money...:eek:

Another reason to be thankful that I don't live in California...:classic: We don't even have mandatory emissions tests here.

Could your balance screw be so far off that one carb is never really returning to idle? Balancing the SUs is a tricky thing. I strongly recommend buying the video from Z-Therapy and watching the balancing section about three times. I ended up balancing mine three or four times before I got the hang of it.

Now that is a radical fuel injection system. Do you still need the air horns with a turbo charger?

Gee, it sure is good to hear that "(we live in Chicago because we have money)" did someone start distributing boxes of money in the projects on the south side? :cheeky: Seriously however it still sounds like fun to me. It is only about 2 1/2 hours from here. I wondered what club it was that was in Nashville last year. From what I can tell the Indy club just meets at local Nissan dealers once a month. Whatever floats your boat.

It is nice to see the value of our cars climb over time, but never forget that the value of all collector cars rises and then eventually falls to a much lower level eventually. Go track the auction price history of Model-T, or Model-A Fords over the last 50 years. I am afraid that a lot of people who have spend 5 figure sums for old Mustangs, and 6 digit prices for some of the Chrysler products may be in for a rude surprise when they have to unload those cars later in life. A friend of mine had that experience when he helped sell his father-in-law's Model-A roadster. It was an unhappy wakeup call to be sure.

3/16 brake line is fairly easy to bend regardless of whether it is stainless, or regular aluminumized steel. In fact if you are careful you can adjust the bend angles without a bender. For a real challenge, try to bend the 5/8 steel tubing for the fuel lines... that stuff is a royal pain.

I passed up an 3.9:1 R200 this winter because of the negative comments I read in these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24759&highlight=R200 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28286&highlight=R200 I knew that my R180 3.36:1 is in good shape, and after spending the money to have my half shafts rebuilt I am not interested in anything that might tear them up...

A vacuum leak would make the pedal harder, not softer... but that would make a noise... I have had a LOT of old cars, and this sort of problem has happened to me many times. Sometimes it is just a bad master cylinder, but more often that not it has been a ruptured brake line. If a brake line ruptures, the pedal will go to the floor, but the car will still stop because the other circuit will continue to work. You should look for signs of leaking fluid everywhere that the brake lines run. If you can get the car on a lift, with the wheels off of the ground, or at least jack stands, have someone hold the pedal to the floor and see if you can rotate any of the wheels. That might lead you in the right direction. I have also had a brake failure warning switch (Directly below the master cylinder on the fender) develop a crack in the body and leak all the fluid from one circuit of the system. The brakes are a closed hydraulic system, and it doesn't take much of a leak to render them inoperative. I suppose that even a severely blown seal in a caliper would cause a problem. By the way, it is possible to bleed the brakes on a car with a leak in the brake system. I have done it more than once.

Do the front brakes actually work? (I know that you can bleed them, but do the calipers grip the rotors?) It sounds like there is kinked steel line somewhere in the rear circuit, but it could be multiple problems. Did you change any of the wheel cylinders, or brake hoses? Initially I had problems with a soft brake pedal and no rear brakes. In my case it turned out to be caused by the "New Old Stock" braided steel brake hoses, which had gone bad with age. I replaced them with real new stock Bendex hoses and my problems went away. Somehow I doubt that is your problem. On the other hand, I did once have a new brake hose that wasn't drilled all the way through on one of the fittings. No amount of vacuum would pull fluid through that hose.:surprised

But drum brakes are a major pain to deal with. If you don't do a lot of your own car repairs, that may not be the first repair that you want to try by yourself. Just my opinion. If you do the repair, remember to leave the other side intact, even if you are going to change the shoes, until AFTER you get the first side reassembled. All the little linkages and springs are difficult to get in the right place unless you have a guide. Which is what you use the other side for, as a model of the way it SHOULD be assembled.

My car obviously had a "front end mask" or "bra" on it at one time, because in the area where it had been the paint was horrible. It looked like when it was removed the paint had stuck to the plastic and partially peeled off with it. If you put one on the car, make sure it "breathes" and isn't going to stick to the paint. Personally, I will just repair the rock chips. Indiana is way too wet to put up with the hassle.

Wait and see if it actually sells. It seems like fairly frequently there are cars listed on Ebay with unstated reserve prices that generate unrealistic bids but never sell. I have never been sure what is really going on when that happens, but I always suspect some form of a scam in process that most of us only see from a distance. Like maybe someone is trying to generate a "history" to inflate the value of a car they are really going to sell locally? Insurance fraud? Who knows. In any event it isn't a real sale until someone PAYS for the car.

It doesn't look that bad to me. But then I have seen worse looking cars that were less than 10 years old, so what do I know? Seriously, clean it up and see how much metal is left. I would be shocked if the car was anywhere close to being unsafe to drive in it's current state. It certainly looks better than what I started with. (There is that rust belt perspective again. You can slap me later.)

Congratulations! I did the same thing a couple of years ago. Isn't it great that they are still available from Nissan? Be aware however that the fenders are really thin. Mine ended up dented by the time I finished painting the car...

I gave up on Ebay long ago. The only way that I would buy something on Ebay now is if it absolutely was not available anywhere else. Otherwise I guarantee that you will pay too much for whatever it is that you buy. Either it will be a good part, but way overpriced, or it will be a "deal" on a substandard and or worn out piece of junk. Either way, why bother?

No hate... In fact, why don't you drive a mile or so for me! Actually the temperature is only half the battle. After it warms up we still have to wait for a couple of heavy rain storms to wash the salt off of the road.:eek: In the mean time we remind ourselves that "patience is a virtue.":stupid:

I was picking up my truck from the service department at the local Chevy dealership, (for the second time in less than a month...please don't ask...) and my wife pointed to the black Corvette Z06 on the showroom floor and said that it would have made the perfect Night Rider car. It even has a small extra air intake just below the hood line that would be perfect for the "Cylon eye" mounting location. (It also has an MSRP above $75k, so I will keep my 240Z thank you very much.)

President Sarkozy was reported saying kind things about the U.S. on his visit here last year. I am mildly surprised that he wasn't run out of office at the time.:cheeky: I sort of like the guy, and I guess his new "trophy" wife is very pretty. I hope things work out for him.

Yet another reason to envy California... junk yards with Datsuns! We have fewer auto junk yards every year, and finding any car that is 20 years old in a junk yard around here is very difficult. Anything made of steel that is left exposed to the elements rusts away in a very few years. Most of the auto "recyclers" in this area bring a car in, strip off the useful parts, then crush the shell and send it to one of the local "steel mills". (Which only deal in recycled metal.) Finding anything like a door hinge would be a miracle.

Very nice looking interior indeed! Glad to see that someone had a 68F degree day. It is 18F here. Let's see, Knoxville is about 5 hours (by car...) south of here, so that works out to be about 10 degrees per hour...

Yes the 280ZX turbo rims are 15 X 6 with a 10mm offset. And by the way, the Tire and Rim association year book that I have lists both the 215/60/R15 and the 225/50-15 as being "approved" for use on 6" wide wheels. Check the back spacing that you need on the front before proceeding. I think that on the 240Z a 225/50 would be close, if it fit at all. I do not know what the suspension looks like on a 280Z (Particularly mounted on a 6" wide wheel. That will increase the sidewall bulge.)

To steal a laugh from Steve Martin "Well excuse me!". Seriously, this board gets a lot of traffic. If no one replies to your topic for a full day it will be pushed off of the front page and never be seen by anyone who might have the answer you are looking to find. Better to get a couple of snide remarks that bump your topic back onto the active page, than to miss the chance of someone who actually knows the answer never seeing your question.

I feel your pain brother...