Walter Moore

Heh... Bullet holes... and not the stick-on kind either.

Actually I have been lucky this winter. Several times we had a warm spell followed by drenching rains that washed all the salt of the roads making it safe to drive the Z for a day or two before I had to put it back in the garage to hide from the rust monster. For the past month or so I have been able to drive it just about any time I wanted to. Of course I have only had the time on weekends, and this past weekend there really wasn't any time for fun.

Well, other than the Turbo 400 transmission out weighing the rest of the car I can't imagine why it would have been so slow...

First I would replace the oil filter. The filter is supposed to have a check valve, but some of the filters on the market have been cheapened up to the point where the check valve does not work. Stay away from Fram filters. They have acquired a proven reputation for failed check valves in recent years. Purolator, Wix, and the "Premium" brands like Mobil 1 and K&N appear to be a better choice. If the problem persists with a good oil filter, then look into the pump.

It is just a matter of priority and market share. Back in the early 1990's most viruses were targeted specifically at Mac users because they tended to be less tech savvy and as a result the platform was considered a soft target. It was only when the boys (and girls) in Redmond became successful that they became the primary target. What comes around goes around as they say.

Nice car!

I concur that you will get better specific advise on a V8 swap at Hybrid Z. However I believe that the Ford small block V8 is done frequently, and since the Distributor is on the front of the 302, instead of the back like a SBC, you don't have to remove the hood latch. Good luck with your project.

Ok, here you go: BANG! These people sell a "matched" paint that is supposed to be accurate. http://www.classicdatsun.com/ I just painted mine a generic gray.

That is an interesting swap, 3.5L Rover V8 into a Z. Not many of those I bet. Is the Rover motor an aluminum block engine? Depending upon the transmission type it might be lighter than the L28. It isn't a very common motor down here in the "lower 48" but still intriguing. Good luck with the conversion. You will likely get more encouragement over at Hybrid Z. I don't personally know much about the various frame rail replacements, and I am not sure that the ZX front end would even fit on the Z. I think the older body might be too narrow. As for the turbos, if you get too much power you will need to upgrade the brakes. Like most cars from the 70's, the Z's stock brakes fade pretty quickly if you end up going faster than the max speed for which car was originally designed.

Beautiful car! We usually get a few of them at our church's annual car show. It always amazes me that cars from that era worked at all. I can relate to the need for a bigger garage... my father in law has repeatedly remarked about storing "that **** rice burner" in the garage while my wife's 08 Mustang sits out in the rain. But the Mustang, being a much newer car can take the rain. The Z would dissolve I am afraid.

Delphi went through a Chapter 11 bankruptcy reorganization a couple of years ago, but they did not go out of business. They are still in operation, but I did not know that they made parts for Nissan products. Mostly I am familiar with their rack and pinion steering systems. I know because they are a customer of ours, and in the bankruptcy they essentially got one of our machines for free. (took delivery and didn't have to pay for it. That is how chapter 11 works I gather.)

Here is a thread showing how I installed my electric fuel pump. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30982&highlight=electric+fuel+pump By the way, don't use the glass style fuel filters shown in the pictures in that thread. Eventually they both cracked and had to be replaced with metal cased filters.

Well you shamed me into it. I created a throwaway Gmail account and put my pin in place. However in keeping with the spirit of our New Zealand member (whose pin is located in the ocean...) I put mine in a city park. At least I marked a location in the same county... And if our current federal administration gets its way, the pin may be accurate...

Or are looking for information on "Joe he plumber apparently..."

Only if you remove the fender.

Not to be picky, but the chemical formula for Nitrous Oxide is N2O, not NO2. The latter is Nitrogen Dioxide.

Not to be obvious, but there must be a short in the wiring somewhere. You, or someone, will have to work through the various things on that circuit looking for the short. It could be intermittent, perhaps something that only touches a ground point once in a while. That might explain the working for an hour side of the story. Depending upon the year of the car, either a Hanes manual, or better yet one of the factory service manuals will help, along with a Volt/Ohm meter.

I want a BMW 850ii, but having worked on the 325es that my son owned at one point I don't think that I want to have to do the amount of work to a BMW that I did to my 240z. I thought the Marquis De Said was French, not German... Apparently he works in BMW's engineering department helping to ensure that customers don't repair their own vehicles.:paranoid:

Just a novice question here, but what units are being used relative to the ".125" and "50" values? I always wondered how Nitrous was measured and regulated when used for boost in a car engine. I understand the principal, just not the application.

There is always this option: http://www.courtesyparts.com/horn-pad-1970-1973-240z-p-568995.html?cPath=7724_7760&

I had air bubbles in my clear fuel filter that were caused by a small crack in the filter. I replaced the filter and the air bubbles eventually went away.

I concur with Arne, those look like the 4 screw carbs on my 71'.

I hate to confess this, but I bought the ones that I have on Ebay...

So is the purpose of this to make the light brighter? Is there a problem with the brightness of the original bulbs? How many watts do the replacement bulbs draw? If they are higher wattage bulbs, will the wiring support the additional current? I could see an LED conversion, since that would make the bulbs last essentially forever. But even then only if I thought that the current system was a problem. (I am not trying to disparage your idea. I just don't understand the purpose...)

Inboard brakes... glad I don't have to mess with those!