Walter Moore

So in other words the 76 and later drum brakes are more "normal" drum systems with double sided wheel cylinders. I swear that I don't understand why the early car's single sided, sliding wheel cylinder works at all.

My car had orange shag carpet when I bought it, so I can relate to the "house carpet" effect.:sick: For the record I used the Motorsport carpet kit, but then my interior is black so getting that color is easy.

I guess my answer is: Z cars don't belong in museums, they are too much fun to just stare at in awe. Z cars are for driving!

I guess I missed this thread in April. (so many threads, so little time) Any updates? Oh, and will that actually fit in the engine compartment?

The front fenders are the same. The doors are not. Suspension parts will be mostly different. The transmissions will bolt up the same, with appropriate clutch selection... I don't know about the rear hatch. The hoods will fit I think, but of course one will have vents where the other does not.

How old is the fuel pump?

Looks like the one side was ground down. Maybe someone lost a wheel at speed. The bridge tubes as you put it can be bent by hand. Buy a tubing bender and a flaring tool. You will need to use 10mm Japanese brake line. I made the bends in the middle of a much longer tube, 1 foot, perhaps 2 foot. I used one tube for each part. Then I cut the ends to the correct length, pushed the fittings onto the S bend, and re-flared the ends. It seems like I had to straighten each side just a little to get the flaring tool to work, then bend them back by hand.

You can download the factory service manual here: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html I have never worked on the turbo engine, but I remember from the FSM that the distributor is totally different than the NA cars. SBlake01 might be able to help you more.

With red loctite don't you have to heat the part to get the bolts loose later? He seems to be saying that he wants to change the ring occasionally. Just asking, not criticizing.

If you tighten the lock bolt too much you will swag the spindle pin requiring it to be pressed out by a machine shop the next time you need to change it. I don't know what to tell you about the thread engagement. It seems like you ought to be able to pull the lock wedge far enough to fill the nut. However remember that there really isn't any force exerted on the pin to push the lock wedge up in operation. It just keeps the pin from turning when you tighten the nuts on the end.

Indeed. Can we please let this argument die?

It sounds like you missed one of the wires, perhaps the remote sense line? (I think it is a white wire.)

First of all the site listed above is wrong. Yellow is 16 tooth and the 1:3.36 differential needs a 17 tooth sprocket. (Been there, done that.) I bought a 17 tooth from Courtesy Parts last year, part number 32703-78101. It was about $14 plus shipping. You need a punch to change it because you have to drive out the roll pin that holds the gear in the housing. I would try the gear first, then if it doesn't work pull the speedometer out and take it to a local shop to be re-calibrated.

They sell steel rivets you know...

Don't the drag racers still prefer leaf springs on the front?

You have a voltage regulator problem. The voltage should never be above about 14.5 under any circumstances. Normal is 13.8 - 14.2, but at idle under heavy load it can drop down into the 12.x volt range, particularly if the alternator belt is getting weak. A fully charged battery runs 12.5V or there about no load.

That button isn't related to the infamous "mandatory seat belt" system that was required in 74 is it? (or at least PART of 74...)

Cruse control in a Z? Interesting question.

That depends on the condition of the frame. Personally, I had my car on jack stands for months at a time with no apparent damage.

The 5 slot mags were a common dealer installed option on the 240Z. I suppose that they could have been dealer installed on the 260Z as well. There were a lot of companies who made wheels like that. I remember seeing them in the Sears catalog when I was a kid.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but that Gloria looks like an Oldsmobile from the same era. (BTW, I rather like Oldsmobiles. So I guess it is a back-handed compliment.) NO, I am not saying it is a copy. Don't anyone get their dander up and start spouting relative production dates. It just looks a lot like some of the American "Heavy Metal" from the same time period. I still like the car.

Looks familiar. Be sure to get the tank cleaned. Be prepared to have it lined afterward. I wish you lots of luck with the rust monster. Most of us around here need it!

I'll second that. You know, now that I think about it I haven't seen a running Fiesta in nearly 20 years... That would be considered a "special" collectible.

Several S30 people from the Chicago area showed up at the Midwest Z show in June. Check here: http://www.windycityzclub.com/

I have a Holley electric pump, and it makes a whirring sound that can be heard at idle. There are some threads here about various pump styles, so if you want to replace it try searching. You could try removing it and seeing if the car still runs correctly. If you replace it, be sure to get a pump that is made for carbureted engines. The fuel injected ones have too much pressure, and will cause things to fail...