Walter Moore

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch was replaced? Just like brake rotors, the flywheel can get surface irregularities from an old clutch disk, and after replacing the clutch it can take some time for the two to wear into each other if the flywheel isn't resurfaced. (clutch chatter...)

But it should exceed 12V. The normal range is around 13-14VDC. Anything less than 12.5V indicates that the alternator or regulator is dead. When you say the amp meter reads 15, do you mean +15 or -15?

The defroster lines are horizontal on my 71, as it is an early "series 2" (Not official designation I know, don't slap me...) so that may not be different than his car.

Apparently the state of confusion. :classic: Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Oh, somehow I mixed that up. In retrospect I should have known better. A company that I worked for back in the 1980's made some equipment for Zama, and it was a truck line at that time. I had never heard of Shantal or Hiratsuka before. I am glad I asked the question. Thanks,

Now Alan, it isn't polite to gloat. (At least not publicly...) Yet another lovely flame war started by someone dropping the F-bomb. I guess if it didn't come from Zama it isn't safe to use the word Factory, is that the point? By the way, now that Zama is just a museum, where do they build the 370Z? I know at one time Nissan had plants in Kyushu and Tochigi, does it come from one of them, or somewhere else? (I know it isn't made in Smyrna Tennessee.)

Hey Carl, Did you bring your V8-240Z to the Midwest show last year? If so, that is a very nice car. Anyway, if you really want a 370Z I guess pick the other car that you like least and sell it. (I have no spare cash right now, so I am not making an offer.) But remember that the value of the other cars is likely to hold fairly steady or increase over the next 10 years, while the new car's value (any new car) is going fall like a rock during that same time period. The other thought is, are you planning on using the 370Z as a replacement for one of the other cars, or as a daily driver? If it is doing to be a daily driver, then the depreciation in value is less of an issue as you will see that with any car. (But I also don't currently know anyone who drives their 350/370 in the winter.) Anyway, you ask for opinions, so that is mine. Either way, stay safe!

As for the reference to the over-rider bars being mostly decorative, the same statement applies to the bumpers. That was true of nearly all cars sold in the U.S. from the mid 1960's until 1974. (When the dreaded 5 MPH bumpers were required by law.) I never liked the mandated "bullet proof" bumpers, but at least they cut down or eliminated the costs associated with minor collisions. The early bumpers offered no real protection from anything.

These are L24s correct? Richmond Indiana isn't very far away, but I already have one "spare" engine...

Good luck with the car, and the new job. It looks like you are off to a good start.

Carl may be able to control the list on Zhome.com, but the spread sheet, the second link that Steve objected to, is pretty much open to anyone that signs in.

I guess I am the odd man out here. All of my feeler gauges are in mm, and I have to convert from inches to mm when I work on old American cars.

In Windows you can re-size pictures with Paint, using the "Image/Stretch" option. Just enter the same % in both horizontal and vertical. (e.g. 50% makes the picture 1/2 the size it was when you started.)

The oil pump only runs while the engine is spinning, so that part sounds normal. It could be several things. Do you have a factory service manual? You can download one here: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html That is the place to start.

I have been running synthetic 10W30 for a couple of years because I was too lazy to search for 20 weight oil. It works well enough, certainly much better than ATF.

Dang, that pretty well describes all of my cars right now. Why didn't I think of that before?

Personally I used Armor-all on mine. Screaming from those who "know better" than to ever use that product in 10..9..8..7...

Scratch that Arne... Nothing that you could do to a 70's Ford Granada would be half as bad as what those cars deserved. There is no such thing as a "good" Granada. The Granada and the Dodge Diplomat serve as poster children for the worst excesses of unholy cheapness the U.S. auto industry ever foisted upon the car buying public. Just my opinion you understand.

Actually it seems like I bought one from Advance Auto that worked with some minor tinkering.

It's not that hard, if you are comfortable standing on your head...

The couple of times that I have pulled the transmission I don't take the exhaust off at the header, I just remove all of the clamps at the back end of the car and push the exhaust pipe to one side until it clears. But then I: 1) Have a 3-2-1 header, not an exhaust manifold 2) Have a relatively new, non-rusty exhaust system that will tolerate being twisted. Your results may vary.

I can't read the diagram in my Haynes manual because the reduction is too small. I strongly suggest that you download the factory service manual for your car here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html This and many more questions are waiting to be answered there. Good luck.

89% Regrettably for many of those questions my first response was "Who cares..."

It is very likely that someone in this club knows a good Z car shop: http://www.windycityzclub.com/

The Indy Z car club site is back up, but it has moved here: www.indyzcarclub.org