Walter Moore

The synchronizers in the transmissions are brass or bronze and they tend to wear out. They are also susceptible to damage from using the wrong gear oil. (GL-5 has too much sulfur for "yellow metals".) You could try draining and re-filling your transmission with Redline MT-90. If some one has put the wrong lube in the transmission the Redline will help significantly, but if the syncros are truly worn out you are probably looking at a rebuild or swap from a parts car. By the way, the 83 transmission is considered by many to be the most desirable. Just something to keep in mind.

Yep, the one on the upper right hand corner, where the empty clamp is located. But I am sure Zedyone_kenobi was just showing the picture as a reference.

Could the holes be from an after market wing that was installed by a previous owner?

You can also check for leaks by spraying carb cleaner on various fittings and gasket surfaces around the intake. When you spray the cleaner on the leak it will be sucked into the intake and the engine will suddenly run "differently". It may die. It may stumble. It may surge. But whatever it does it will change, and that will allow you to identify the source of the leak.

Looks good. Just curious, what model of Pirelli are those tires?

Didn't the Skylark have an aluminum block V8? There was a guy I saw somewhere who was trying to install a V8 from a Range Rover into his Z. I thought those engines were similar at one time. (Perhaps not so much today however...) Anyway, G.M. used to have different transmissions for Chevy engines then everything else they made, so that could be an issue with putting a Buick engine in your Z. All the kits are made for the Chevrolet parts.

Without a catalytic converter the air reactor is mostly just window dressing. I have searched and never been able to find any reputable source that can document that the things did anything meaningful to reduce emissions. (Other than dilute the exhaust with fresh air to give the appearance of doing SOMETHING about air pollution.) Not all cars from that era even had an air reactor pump. (All Z's apparently did, but I personally owned three other early 70's cars that came from the factory without this oddity.) On the other hand, they were pulled off and thrown away with such abandon that they may be collector's items. You may want to hang on to it as a conversation piece. The air reactor on my car was missing when I bought the car, and I wouldn't even know where to find one if I wanted to replace it.

So, in five years our cars start the transition from classic to antique... It is hard not to take that personally. Oh, having owned a 72 Pinto I feel obliged to point out that while it was indeed one of the WORST cars ever mass produced in the U.S., the primary thing that caused them to "go BOOM" was being hit from behind by a much larger vehicle travelling at a substantially higher speed. Having removed and re-installed the gas tank in my 71 240Z I personally doubt that it would fare much better than a Pinto if it was struck from behind by a full sized van travelling in excess of 80 MPH while it was sitting at a stop light. (which I recall being the nature of the accident that was the genesis of the law suit that gave the Pinto the reputation of being a death trap.)

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?pageName=/new/PressReleases_en_US/12vLEDHeadlamp.html&storeId=10001&langId=-1 I have considered the LED driving lights, but decided to give them a few more years to "mature" before I really got serious about it. For now Halogens will have to suffice. I was interested in the explanation of why white LED's fade. So in essence "White" LEDs are actually LED powered florescent bulbs. (replacing the mercury vapor with an ultraviolet LED.) I wondered how they got the white light out of them.

I love the color. But I don't have that kind of money to spend on a car.

Actually the question is does anyone under 40 know what this is?

No, and that was Carl's point. The seller might have been telling the truth. I may have been "removed" from a 73 240Z, but it is clearly not made for one.

Two words: Fuel Pump. That is exactly how my 71 acted when the fuel pump was bad. It ran strong, at any RPM so long as the car was moving less than 60 MPH, then it just as you say, hit the wall and would move no faster.

Just curious, how exactly would your insurance company KNOW that you had installed hub conversion kits? I always wonder about the "normal" things that people go through in other places relating to owning a car. That is the only reason that I ask. Is there actually someone who inspects your car before issuing a policy? Personally the only cars that I ever had inspected by an insurance agent were ones that I had wrecked, and that was only for a claim adjustment. One of the cars had radical (for the time) after-market wheels, and the adjuster didn't even notice. In Indiana we haven't even had mandatory safety inspections since the early 70's.

It is a little low, but otherwise I like it. (OK, maybe a lot low...) I still like it.

Boo, take him away! (Think-the two old guys in the balcony of the Muppet Show. I am beginning to resemble those guys, so I may as well sound like them.)

Well, it is a very old car...

Did you actually mean 10W-30 in the WINTER, and 20W-50 in the SUMMER? I am not sure where you live, but 20W-50 in cold weather is a really bad idea. There are several sites that trash Fram filters. I do know that the one Fram that I used had a bad check valve, and was always empty at startup. I generally use one of the following, depending upon the current sales price: K&N (once.) Mobil 1 (when Advance Auto runs a special that includes the filter) Purolator (my normal fall-back) I use only Mobil 1 oil in all of my cars, but I guess I am different than many on this site. I even use synthetic oil during the break-in period after a rebuild.

Don't worry about the small expenses, the bits get more expensive as you near completion...

You could also look into something like this: http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=25&cs=82&cm=77&cd=1642 I do not remember the size that I used, but this is the style that I have on my car to fill those holes.

Indeed, happy Thanksgiving to everyone, including a belated happy Thanksgiving to our friends in Canada who celebrated their version last month!

Pretty much just the transmission. If you search for "5 speed conversion" you can get more detailed information. Your existing clutch will work, but the throw-out bearing and sleeve need to match the clutch, not the transmission, so unless you are buying a new clutch, use the ones from your 4 - speed. Having been down this road by the way, this would be an excellent time to run past your local Nissan dealer and get new clutch parts. I had to drop the transmission back out and replace the clutch a couple of years after swapping the transmission. That was a waste of effort.

By the way, since no one else answered the carb ID question, you have 4 screw SUs. (Actually Hitachi units made under license, but functionally equivalent.)

My car never had FI, but I am using the Holley "red" electric pump on my SU equipped 240Z with no issues. (Other than it is noisy.)

Aw, be nice now. There is more information on engine swaps over there, but can you really say that if you had easy access to, oh say a RB26DETT you wouldn't be tempted to drop it in your car and give it a whirl? (I would.)