sjcurtis

Those 2 keys on E BAY. From what I have seen in Australia. The left is identical to the single key from the 69 model 510 delivered in Australia. The right key is identical to the ignition Key for 71 / 73 240z. cheers Steve:classic:

Alfadog, be careful, there are Bluebird boxes and Bluebird boxes. Due to the local build and import mix in the Bluebird range in AUS you are going to find a mix of boxes all called five speed. In your case may I recommend that you source, either B series Z box or B series K box as you Know the two boxes have diffrent ratio sets, but you should end up with a box that will match your car and tail shaft spigot and not cause problems. Dont rule out all those Skyline boxes that came behind the L series engines in the 80's. Cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks to KATS for the original post. It is good to see that in the life of the S30 significant information can still be found by the dedicated investigator. I have enjoyed the good level of banter, mixed with the uncovering of fact that this post has produced. Great Photos. I am confused in a few areas but I guess the first question must be ( to anyone). 1. In the context of this thread does E mean HLS30. and 2. Does the HLS30 designation cover all of the LH Drive S30 build. Regards Steve :classic:

1 Bravo 6, from what I can see Precious is looking fantastic. Please post more pictures. We all know your hard work and dedication has produced something Special. We all want to view Precious extensively. Please give us more opertunity to comment on the many diffrent aspects that make up this superb Z. Waiting for more pics Steve :classic:

WOW, I got of the side on that one. Great explanation Guys. appologys Steve:stupid:

The injection System and the engine all can be fixed, good that you saw it run from the clutch start, as that is a good sign. The part number on the computer will date the injection system, and allow you to chase any parts you may need. The forging mark on the block just above the sump attach point passenger side down below where the distibutor is. You must have seen the casting mark for the head on the drivers side of it. Take some digital pictures if you can get a camera, stick them on your hard drive for when you do the instal in the 2 seater. Please post a pick of the engine bay if you can. Steve :classic:

MakDiesel, I think what the guy was meaning by the statement is that it is the distributor for a 1981 or1982 ZX set for 8.2 degrees BTDC at 700 + or - 100 RPM. For the 240Z still set it up with standard timing position 10-17 degrees BTDC depending on fuel and altitude. its going to be around 15 plus with this particular distributor. hope that helps cheers Steve:classic:

two_fourty_zed, I dont understand your problem with ADR'S. What model Z are you running. If you are going to run injection on your engine you cant really go wrong when it comes to getting power out. If you have built up the engine in such a way you will have to check your measurements to work out where your compression is going to come in for a given block/head combination,N42 is probably going to be the main contender as it will provide tracktable power with injection on nearly all combinations. Post any problems you get along the way as a lot of people can help with the injection and tweeking. My2c Steve :classic:

Zedrally, my sentiments to. If its all alloy and the weight is low and aft of the crossmember imagine the posibilities. It realy does look like a great fit. cheers Steve :classic:

Drunkenmaster, if this Z has an injected engine with a p 90 and it runs, grab it. Any block combination with a P90 bolted to it will give you what you want if it runs and sounds strong. Even if it has been sitting and the head has internal corrosion you can still repair it. I have run an L series/ p90 injected for 10 years, believe me, you wont regret the buy. go for it. Steve :classic:

Drunkenmaster the 2+2 is not a bad option to get you 90 % up to the mark. Forget the obvious differences, look at the positives every component on the car uses attachment hardware you can use. all the hidden stuff fans, mechanisms heater aircon steering indicator stalk,,, endless list. Sure you will have to source some parts ( very small list). The Best thing ready accessible pre fabricated repair sections and correct grade of metal for sheet inserts and strengthening. EFI is a bonus. sorry for ranting in the positive. cheers Steve:classic:

Thats the way HalZ be the decerning buyer. Take your own sweet time and drewl on every 240z that pops its bonnet for you. It will pop out and bite you when its the right one. About the AUTO dont discard without thought. some of them are absolute jems hiding in sheeps clothing. I have one that is a balistic missile when you get it on good highway ( read road in Australia not NSW). good luck with the "Quest" Steve:classic:

After looking at the two pictures already posted, they both look like 90 degree blocks. I think either engine will present similar fabrication problems no matter what systems you are looking at. Are both engines all alloy. How much does the fully dressed engine weigh in comparison with the L series. cheers Steve:classic:

Z Kid, Two finishes, gold or silver on the same type of mag wheel. I think the earliest version had the silver type finish, the gold was then introduced along side it later. Yes the epoxy was sh**, a good steam clean could bring the wheels up looking patchy. cheers Steve:classic:

jmead, I would like to offer a few additional tips to what Jeff is already saying. If you changed the throttle body, could you have upset something else when you did the job. It may be as simple as a wire loose on a plug, I think your full throttle switch could do with investigated along with the airflow meter. I think your pop and associated shut down could be a very lean mixture and faulty air flow meter operation. You may have to do some work on the airflow meter to increase the fuel to air ratio allowing a better burn rate. let us know what you find. my 2c Steve:classic:

The mag wheels you are talking about where an option item like many other items for the 260Z, they come in silver or gold depending on the age of the zed. the most common delivery was on the fully optioned up 260z 2+2. I cant remember to many 2 seaters with them on. most of the aftermarket stuff was bigger so serious people soon ditched them (rim size correct offset 14x5.5). As for steel wheels and trims Dealers are the main culprits for muddying the waters on standard delivery fit as they would send a whole shipment of zeds into the shop and d*** them up with fresh mags and such to boost the base selling price. Capitol motors at Burwood to name one. cheers Steve :classic:

I like the finish, good all around package, needs the standard bonnet though. my 2c steve:classic:

drunken master, definately an R200 ( probably open center) it is one of the features of the AU version of the 260Z Coupe. Z kid, take the plunge. The R200 is worth the effort. If you can get your hands on an R200 for that price with a full size LSD inside, go for it. I got mine back in 93, had it in storage because I wanted to rebuild it first. I was told simply don't fix it if it ain't broken. I changed the drive shaft seals LH & RH, the rear seal and flushed the internals. New circlips on the half shafts and still going hard now. cheer Steve:classic:

Gav240z, Yeah you are right about the hole theory some do come with the air hole in the boot to spot them bursting at the bottom. Dont even think of the cheap ones, I saw some that where in two months and they where flogged out. The dry graunching sound is normally a dry uni and when that dry noise is associated with a skipping motion thru the lock both ways is a stuffed one. Are you sure your rack mount bushings are stuffred are there bits hangign out get someone to turn the wheel while you look also listen for th noise I bet its at the strut base. cheers Steve:classic:

Datman 260Z, welcome this is about the best place for someone getting started in Zeds. The guys who are members of this site really know about the 240Z and the 260Z. There are people from the West on the site and also a lot of people around the world who can help you with just about anything. I am sure someone from Western Australia should be able to help with contacts and suppliers. Glad to meet another Zed owner. good luck Steve :classic:

Hey Gav nice effort, I agree with everyone else your damage should be minimal, if you are not sure elevate the wheels and pull it around you can tell if you have killed one quite quickly. Don't change the grease gun, change the grease nipples they are cheaper fit a 45 or 90 degree nipple and then you will get your grease gun on clean. Next trick don't explode the rubber boot from to much grease. Saw a true professional do that in Sydney took him awhile to get the grease and egg off his face, Z16 was full house about ten people saw it and laughed someone was paying him to work on Zeds. good luck Steve:classic:

Hi guys, love this topic, can anyone finger the team who installed the aircon for $1300.00 AUS. I have two doors that need scratching, bull (IF THEY WANT TO DIE). No seriously I am interested if this is a good conversion. Love to see some pics if the new owner is willing. I have a Zed with aircon but it is a 71 vintage unit so its as old as the car. I want to install aircon in the 73. cheers Steve:classic:

Majik16106, I think the older style half shafts should sustain in good condition through an R200 LSD from about 250 to around 300, all depends on the conditions of your Zed with a straight six you may go better than that with a smallblock it may be at the lower end of expectation. In your case the ZXT option is highly recommended especialy as you are in the right market place to get it done cheap. Cheers Steve:classic:

Hi guys, that uni failed from lack of grease not brute force. If you look at the plate end one of the bearing caps has been working(red brown dust around the edge) as the needle rollers inside sarted to get hot and lockup, starting to fail. George you were just your lucky self again, I could have jumped in the seat and dumped it with 6**** on the TACH with no fail then you would try and bang. It was an age related failure just grab a good drive shaft check the uni's and throw it in. Work the mod out to CV's in your own sweet time. Oh check all your unis feel for any movement look for any sign of something diffrent if you are not sure post the pics and we can check for you. If you do go for new uni joints, I agree with Ben go quality, your suppliers will know. Cheers Steve :classic:

I take it the car is not locked just the trunk. remove the drives side door lock barrel carefully. on the barrel will be a set of numbers, the barrel set code get the local locksmith to cut a key to that code, or give him the door barrel and he can cut a key for it that will do all the locks. the number way is best as it is the correct profile the barrel may be worn so the key may be slightly diffrent if cut to it depending on which country your 510 was sold, may vary the master lock barrel position from driver to passenger side, driver side is most common. ony one lock barrel per car carries the master number code good luck my 2c Steve :classic: