Patcon

I don't car for Type 4 Type 1 is ok but I believe 2 and 3 would be easier to see when lapping traffic. I also like that 2 and 3 are a little different and they have lighter color roofs so the car will be cooler inside

We have the car parts manuals web pages that show the exploded view of the 510 and the 240z and give the parts numbers. Is there something like this for the 510 SSS? I am looking for some of the carb parts numbers but can't locate a diagram or break down. Thanks, C

Around here we call that "tuition" the cost of learning....

Do you have a European independent mechanic that works on old cars. Most of the high performance European cars from the 60's & 70's had Webers

Have you tried the very subjective "rap on it" test to see if it rings. I did some of that before the Lizard Skin then after. It was noticeably different

The purple box is probably a fuse that was added to deal with the lost fuse location

@Pop's Z Do you have any idea why the other seals failed? Brand, installation, some other anomaly?

Which needles solved your problem, the N54's?

How did you solve it? Did I miss something?

I got one side assembled about 11:00 last night. Domes in gives enough room with a little effort to get the nut started. I will have to add another washer but I bet one they are initially compressed it will be easier to add the washer...

I agree with ZH start at the fuel pump. Bad pump, bad power or obstruction...

Is it just me or was "Blue" Bob McKenzie in a former life????? @240260280

I don't know, I will try to look tomorrow...

No worries on the ugly welding commentary. I'm a function over form guy on most things... So the large washers go with the dome side in???? That seems counter intuitive but it would probably give me the room I need to get the nut started. The car is upside down on the rotisserie so no loading and very easy to manipulate... Is there a smaller washer on both ends? I thought there was only a washer on the bar end not the nut end?

More stuff Vent tank Brand new seat cover 4 wheel covers. 2 have damage on the rim

Worked on the front suspension some more. Tried to assemble the Tension Rods. There must be a trick to it. I searched through some old threads but couldn't find anything. How do you compress the new rubber to get the nut started? Also which side of the bushing faces which way. there is a flat side and a rounded side. I have the flat sides in right now. Trying to find some knuckle bolts right now. I think I have some in my parts car stash. I also worked on the front fender today. Welded in the patch panel and use the shrinking disc to try to make it right. It's not perfect but it will work...

Very cool. Nice and neat...

I don't know that I have an answer for you, but some pictures might help.

Is your big red light low oil pressure? Is the other red item a push to start button?

The welds are ugly, but they really didn't matter. I know the gas was on but might not have had enough flow. The tank is getting low on pressure. I still lean towards the metal still having some impurities from the quick prep I gave it. Wire speed might have been a little high too. I didn't really fuss with it; just burnt it up...

What did you use for media? Eastwood has a product called "After Blast" that treats the metal and prevents flash rust as long as it doesn't get wet. Works really well...

That is what I looked for first. I am a builder and have an assortment of hole saws but didn't have the correct size so I went to the next best option at my disposal. I hate going to the store on the weekends...

So as CO has mentioned there is a longer side to the rear swing arm bushings. The longer side goes out away from the strut... I suspect this is why some people have had a hard time reassembling the rear suspension in the past. If you were to orient these incorrectly the space would be about .008" too small for the rear strut to fit into. I found a pipe laying around in my stuff that was very close in ID to the bushing but it was thin wall stuff So I cut two pieces of it and split one down length wise I then sleeved one inside the other and welded them together and welded around the lip for additional thickness My apologies to the other welders here @grannyknot @disepyon these welds are pretty ugly. I assume I didn't get all the galvanize off, oh well Dressed them down a little bit and tried them as an anvil... Not happening! I couldn't get the anvil to line up well enough to receive the old bushing. So I resorted to less elegant methods. I didn't want to burn them out because the pieces are already painted. So I took a drill bit and drilled all around them... Then I tore the center out with pliers Then I took my body saw and made some cuts through the remaining bushing shell and collapsed it on itself Pressing them in after that was a piece of cake Even though I couldn't use the fabbed anvil for removal it worked great for the reinstall. Today I worked on the fender repair some more and hopefully will figure out some bolt locations tomorrow...

@87mj Sorry I didn't reply, but Grannyknot is correct. The chassis is not very heavy when stripped and the points for the most part are bumper locations. So while not overly sturdy they are sufficient to mount the car.