Patcon

Thanks Namerow

I figured I would use some large sockets as anvils, but if that failed I would use a hole saw to cut the bulk of the rubber out. Then I have an assortment of rotary cutting dies and a body saw that I figured would do the trick to thin the shell down and collapse it in. I may try to work on it some tomorrow... I knew the bushings weren't symmetrical to each other but which way is the bushing supposed to extend, to the rear?

Perfect

I really don't want to use heat. All the parts have been painted. "Cart before the horse" sort of thing. Unfortunately I will probably chip them up some. I have a 20T press but I do recall some people having problems crushing them.

I thought I would try to press them out first. If they didn't want to come out I would cut them out...

I also need to press new rubber bushings in the lower control arms for the front and the spindle pins for the back. Any tips on doing this or pitfalls to avoid?

On a separate note, I took the Disepyon approach to my hood. It is an aftermarket hood I have had for 20 years or so. I didn't like the way the 2 pieces of metal meet on the front edge met. They didn't really line up very well. So I took the grinder to it. Much better now

Trying to do something every week to get it moving along This week I plated a few small things trying to get my plating back up and going. I did some small screws for Cody's 510 But along that line. I realized I have no idea what color to make certain screws and bolts I was stringing hardware and then realized I don't know if all of this should be clear or yellow zinc The other bigger problem is I don't know where all of these go... I didn't do very well labeling hardware when my kids helped me strip the car. Many times I recognize the hardware and know where it goes but not so much today Any help identifying fastener locations would be great. Are the flat sided washers for the front fenders? I made a serious mistake at Zcon this year. I had some excellent vehicles to make pictures of so I knew where the hardware went but it slipped my mind. I believe these are the door hinge bolts.M8x1.5 x 18L or so... I think they should be yellow zinc and the thick flat washers that go inside the body should be clear zinc or yellow? these sway bar plates I believe should be yellow zinc...?

I have a pile of parts that have been laying around in my shop. Time for them to go...Make an offer I have these two vacuum advance assemblies one is marked 22301-P7900 the other is 22301-P7901 unknown history and I can't even verify that is what they are... Fuel pressure regulator I believe, NOS with the receipt in the box Later intake manifold with the fuel rail more coming later

@Captain Obvious Can you post up the dims from the NOS replacements?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tail-Lamp-Assembly-w-Amber-Signal-Light-1-Set-Fits-70-73-Datsun-240z-/252839101035?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item3ade62826b:g:oBwAAOSwCU1Y38Ko&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-Datsun-240Z-Tail-lamp-Assembly-w-Amber-signal-Light-1-Set-/322470206327?epid=1836686509&hash=item4b14b8db77:g:MzwAAOSwA29Y38Sh&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-JDM-240Z-260Z-280Z-TAIL-LAMP-LIGHT-ASSY-/201974520428?hash=item2f069e9a6c:g:9TAAAOSwiCRUmTaz&vxp=mtr http://www.vintagerubber.com/Datsun240ZTailLightEuro.aspx Some quick options I found... The lenses from VR are about what a whole set of lights costs... I know there are at least two other vendors that make replacement lenses, but I can't locate them right now. Repro's aren't exactly the same as JDM due to trademark infringement issues

A set of reproduction tail lights was about $400. Lens are probably about half that. Check Yahoo japan auctions too...

@siteunseen Yes those are Euros. They use to be really rare but several people make reproductions now. I would go that route now if I didn't have two sets of "Euros" laying around...

Have you tried just jacking the car up and rotating a rear wheel to look for where the slack is?

RIP

I have 2 sets already and I paid $90 which includes shipping for the last pair. I don't want to run any poly if I can help it. I just don't think its necessary and would prefer not to risk squeaks or harshness. I was just trying to find out if they ever sourced some...

@nix240z

I bought a similar product. It does flair pretty easy but a professional flairing tool really helps.

Are these already fabbed to length or material for you to cut and flair yourself?

I was cooking to temperature and the grill was really full. The one closest to the fire finished in 5 hours. I kept moving them towards the smoke box as they got done. We are still experimenting with rubs and sauces. Want to come up with a home made sauce to avoid the high fructose corn syrup and preservatives... That's exactly how it played out, beer, fire bug and eat the results. Not a failure but not a total success either We will probably adjust the rub to take out the Cumin and the chili powder for starters. May just go with salt and pepper on the next meat

Pulled them off about 7 1/2 hours for the last ones. I had a hard time keeping the grill cool enough early on. It got better later. Not bad, good and edible but could be better The bones for Cliff

Not familiar but I got enough... I am about to pull off the last two racks...

Griot's does make some really good products but they can be pricey. I use to get their catalog. Lot's of neat tools and products

That's a pretty neat cooker

Greg, No telling how they will turn out, but you're not too far away. You could be here for dinner... Steve might be mad if you don't drag him along!