Patcon

They shouldn't be hard to get. I bought 4 of them directly from Nissan 6 months or so ago

Nope. Glad it happened in the garage versus in the twisties!

@ABQ240

It always amazes me to see rust like this, even on a clean Z!!! What does he do to prevent rust between the body and the tail light panel?

Was his shop at his home I assume? I wonder if he has any more parts I need?

Huge props to @DamonR He helped me purchase the bumper and dropped it off at the UPS store. It should be here Friday, just in time for Cody's birthday. Thanks also to @Mark Marasfor the connection

I like your idea of going stock for the inspection, then carrying on. I would seriously discourage you from any VIN deviations!

Yes! His metal work is outstanding. I would have to cut that and reweld or something else equally drastic to close those gaps up.

I hate drilling spot welds but that is really the better way to do it IMO.

That's an excellent point. I read four or five of those articles at Stoptech Wilwood 570 looks promising

I will fab up a spacer. Looking forward to Atlanta. Lots of new faces to go with usernames.

I would prefer not to do this. Is this always the case?

I basically did the same thing. I drove the hub into the spindle with a hammer. Then I supported the spindle and drove the bearing down evenly all the way around. It's what I found worked for me. Nothing ventured, nothing gained...You could even support the inner bearing with a large socket and then drive the hub in. I probably used a 2 pound hammer. You are really just looking for a couple of thousands

I don't even have a theory on the numbers. Not a part number, not a test number. Code for a date, but the third picture isn't four digits??? PS:Sorry for the thread jack

This is where I used the BFH. Made is right as rain.

Thanks Mike, The biggest thing I saw for silicone fluid was the lack of pedal feel. As for tracking your car, from what I understand you have done plenty of high brake heat driving. I do really like the idea of no paint damage. I also like that the silicone fluid isn't hygroscopic, so there is less chance for corrosion when the system sits. Let the debate begin...

Thanks John for the reply You had a number of entries in many of the threads I read through last night. This is going to be a street car and will probably not be driving that aggressively. I have the Tokico combo set that showed some issues with the progressive front springs. We will see how they do when I set the car down. I may end up having to go back with Eibachs. Even so it is still relatively soft sprung. So it seemed like the proper thing to run the bar set. I am leaning towards the ST bar setup as it seems very well thought out and complete. I may space the bar out towards the rear like I believe John Coffey recommended to prevent binding. I wish I had done some discreet reinforcing upfront earlier, but I don't want to take the two steps back right now. I know tearing the mounts out can be an issue. How else does the damage show up on the front frame rails? Never mind I found that on your site for the sway bar plates. Separation from the frame rails to the inner fender... The most extreme driving I expect to see with this car is twisties in the NC mountains or events at Zconn. However I don't expect to be testing the limits. I have too many hours in the car to risk wrinkling it all up

Do you have both front and rear bars? Does the rear bar mount through the floor?

Kats, Here is a thread where Jerry worked on a bottle. As your part is probably very rare, I would proceed with caution...

The OEM aluminum ones are being reproduced so no reason to buy the iron ones if you don't want. To polish the aluminum ones you will have to sand them A LOT! Start with something course and finish at 600-800 grit. When they are pretty smooth switch to a buffer. You will need 2 different wheels and 2 compounds ( I don't remember off the top of my head). You might want to try to find a shop and see what they would charge to polish them. It will take some effort to get them looking good unless you have done some buffing.

I am close to filling up the brake system with fluid. So I have been doing a lot of research. I have been using some synthetic Dot 3/4 stuff in all my other vehicles. What is everyone using for fluid? I have pretty much already ruled out Silicone fluid because of the poor pedal feel. I did find the Motul RBF600 which I find really interesting. Really high dry and wet temps. It is expensive, but I am not opposed to that if the benefits justify the expense.

I have done a few hours of reading on here and some at HybridZ on sway bars. I am looking at ordering a sway bar kit. I always felt like the stock setup rolled too much. There are a number of people with kits listed, but It seems there are like basically 3 choices: The ST kit with the rear bar behind the differential and custom "Transverse brace plates" $320-356 The FutoFab orange bars with the rear bar behind the differential $450 but the rear bar is back ordered The MSA kit which looks to have the rear bar forward of the diff and the floor has to be drilled $220 How many of you are running front and rear bars? Any complaints? Which kit are you running? Are any of you having frame problems up front? This is probably my most significant question. I don'e really want to do any welding up front since I have all that area finish painted.

I think that is the way I found the Amazon part!

If you don't seat the inner grease seal in far enough it will bind when you torque it down. I also hit mine a couple of times to make sure I had it seated and it was resistant to spinning. They are both good now...

Are they aluminum?