Patcon

So here is the mustang kit all laid out. I believe, the white part and one of the grommets is the vacuum port for the Mustang. I am not sure what the part that is at 7:00 to the vacuum port is. I believe all the other parts are the same or very similar to the ones used in the Datsun booster The only number on the disc So I started on a new booster tool. I will use the press to help squeeze it a little Bottom section is drilled into a 2x12 to receive the booster Making a template for the lever, it will be steel

I don't believe it was sealed from the factory. Which is why they rust out there. I wouldn't use any of the marine caulk products. I would get a dedicated seam sealer and use that. The seam sealer will take paint. I would also try to treat any rust that is down in there first

Did you just disassemble the one side? If it were me i would take them both off and compare them against each other. You need a point of reference ie. the other strut, since it clears.

That sounds like air in the lines or possibly the pads or shoes are sitting too far off and the initial tap moves them onto the disc or drum

There are a lot of extra parts in the kit. We don't have that many in a Datsun booster. I will tinker some this weekend with the rest of the kit. I may talk to Ed about offering a Datsun specific kit once I have some more facts.

Ok! Go Hoover!!!! @240260280 I'll settle up with you in Atlanta So I got the Mustang brake booster kit in from Harmon Classic Brakes today I think that diaphragm is going to work great! I haven't looked through the rest of the kit yet Old diaphragm New diaphragm OD 6-13/16" 6 3/4" ID 2.59" 2.42" Hub OD 2.65" at diaphragm I suspect the ID on the old disc is stretched from having been on the hub for so long They basically look identical except for the tears in the old one and the deformation from having been previously installed

I agree with Lumens. I seriously doubt the issue is in the strut. I am sure they can be bent but I suspect it is more likely a bearing or hub issue. Don't just throw parts at it. Find the problem before you pay $100+ for a strut

If he decides to replace the mustache bar bushings, what would you suggest he goes with? It is my understanding the mustache bar bushings are NLA

They are mirror images of each other but other wise they are the same

If you go square, you will run the same sized rim and tire on all four corners. Which, makes the most sense if there is no performance advantage

Look in my booster testing thread and contact Ed who had the Ebay ad from my thread. He can probably get you one

I have messed with some Holley's definitely not easier than SU's. SU's are super simple with only one circuit and a float level. Holley's have multiple circuits and sometimes two float level. More variables... It may be stumbling from the pump jet, overly rich. See if you can figure out if the pump jet is getting actuated when you are getting the stumble. There is a kit that has different pump cams and allows you to change how the fuel gets added by the pump jet

If I remember correctly, it was my understanding that the Z doesn't benefit from an out of square tire setup. Maybe some of the track or autoX guys can chime in. Also if you run the same size front and rear you can rotate them and the full mileage warranty will apply

I don't suspect the tension rod. I know the 280z strut tubes are different After looking at carpartsmanual.com it appears there were six variations of struts for the front. 3 for the 2 seaters 240z/260z and 280z and 3 for the 2+2 cars. I know the 280z struts are larger diameter so the strut tubes are correspondingly larger. I don't know what the change was from 240z strut to the 260z strut

Not yet. The only one's I've heard back from, I posted That was not directed at you at all!This doesn't constitute thread jacking and your getting better seems more important than boosters at the moment. ?

Maybe, maybe not. It won't surprise me if it gets closer to 50k

@newbzee I think the above is an excellent suggestion for figuring out where the problem really lies. I also suspect it could be an easy fix. If the tube was bent you wouldn't have been able to gain distance the way you have...

I have steering shaft that has this u-joint in it. You can read the number and it's for a needle bearing. Some cool yellow paint from initial assembly and torquing Broke the rack down today. Hard to get it disassembled and clean. 5 cans of brake cleaner! Is there a way to get this tie rod disassembled with out destroying the joint? I can't really tell how they are manufactured I have a LH thread tie rod end. Are those still available? I saw RH and LH available on Rockauto but I can't tell how they're threaded

@Zed Head What are you seeing? I am missing the problem in his picture. Surface rust on the rotors won't be a problem. It will be gone quickly when you get to drive it. If you have to, cut the head off the bolt and remove the caliper. Then drill it out and tap it

But they whine a lot more !!!! ?

I am still not convinced you don't have a bearing or race issue or some other issue with the hub

I think I emailed them too. They have cut back on opioid Rx a lot so some of the new meds don't really deal so great with the pain. Here's hoping for a swift recovery. Getting older ain't for sissy's!!!

I thought it was today. How do you feel? You may not be too sore yet. Surgeons aren't know for being gentle... Take it easy and be careful on the mend!

Check a tire calculator. There was another tire size thread in the last week or so that had calculator links in it. Those wider tires you listed are going to need lower sidewall numbers to keep the speedo anywhere near accurate. I ran 225's (maybe) years ago but they did rub some on factory steelies

Probably, It in theory makes the cars history complete in one place. Sort of like the 56' Beetle my dad bought new. It is essentially a one owner and I have all the receipts. I suspect that would help the value considerably...although we'll never find out.