Patcon

I made some progress last weekend but not quite there yet. So I drilled out the two rivets at the switch. Replaced them with aluminum pop rivets for now. That made it better but it still didn't work. There was also a continuity issue at these other rivets The only problem is I used a grinder and as the rivet heats up it melts the housing. A die grinder might be a better choice. The LED lamp I was using worked for a moment then freaked out and wouldn't go full brightness. I ordered some more. So we'll see. I would like to replace the aluminum rivets with small copper rivets if I could find some good candidates and a proper way to staked them. They need to be about 0.095" or about 2-2.5mm OD

So Cody and I got the tachometer working tonight. Big thanks to @cgsheen1 Chuck. His explanation for current flow to the tach and back made it all make sense. I took the tip of my thumb off with a hammer tonight in the shop, so I didn't get the last piece of leather in. Opposable thumbs are really useful, as it turns out.

I have used the Zcardepot style pans in the past. It is a lot of work getting them to mate up well to the tunnel. If it were me, I would get the KF pans. I think they are better pans and will give a better finished product. You may not care today about an OEM look today but you might in ten years...

I think I would cap everything on the manifold that uses vacuum with an assortment of rubber caps. Then if you can get the engine started and sorted, add them back one at a time to check for vacuum leaks

I have a maxima rear disc conversion available you're interested...

I wonder if the needles are set too low in the pistons? Closing off the fuel with the choke off

I probably wouldn't coat a stainless header. Jet coat could probably be used though. I bought a Z story exhaust and really like it...

I got back in the shop today. Rear bumper is on. I don't like the fit but it's on for now... License plate light and hatch badges and I think the rear end is done Also worked on installing the leather pieces over the wheel arches I trimmed one of the last pieces and hemmed it with glue

That's a stainless system. Coating isn't required for longevity sake. Coating might help with heat issues

If I remember right, the Webers have an accelerator pump. So you can pump them a couple of times and omit the choke...provided they have fuel in the float bowls

SWMBO ;)

AFAIK most people don't even hook the chokes up. Evidently you can survive without them

Good looking bird!

I would not use any adhesive on the hatch glass seal. If it needs sealing later you can lift the edge of the seal and add a thin bead there

Making the frame rails alot thicker changes the handling characteristics of the chassis. It also moves the potential failure points. Unless you plan on running tremendous power I wouldn't expect thicker frame rails to be necessary

No, they are not... I believe they came from Datsport in Australia who for the longest time was one of the only places to have some of the wagon weatherstripping Do you have a 510 door or trim with any remnants on it?

I am trying to come up with a working dome lamp out of my collection None of the candidates have continuity across the spade terminals. One of them has continuity from the switch terminals on each side of the switch but not through the rivets on out. Any thoughts on how to repair the continuity? Any thoughts on where to find a replacement switch. I have two that need switches

We love having you here Cliff!

So I need some help on the door glass sweeps I have two seals. A small one I believe it fits in the channel at the top of the door on the inside of the glass?? Not sure on the orientation The other is larger It's fuzzy on one side and I assume it goes on the chrome trims on the outside of the door to sweep the exterior of the glass?? I tried to find any decent pictures online but I couldn't find any @grannyknot Maybe somebody has a Dime they could make some pictures for me?

35-45 buys alot more car these days than it did two years ago

I saw one closer to me that was even rougher than that one. They want $1700. It might have $500 in good parts on it...

You didn't buy it??

I've found most automotive electronics don't like being in the 9v range. And yes, conceivably, high resistance could lower the voltage significantly

There was one that sold for 13k this week. I didn't look at it close but if it was a decent driver that would be a good price!

I wondered if it could be for air conditioning