Patcon

the "Stroker!" link is dead

Excellent. I would be curious in how you perceive the difference in cooling between old and new radiator

Thanks Steve

Steve No I haven't met any of the upstate Z members. Hadn't heard about them. That would be interesting to meet some other Z people CO Thanks for the help. We will see where it goes. Bonzi I have power so I don't know about the links but I will look. I evidently won't be able to work on it this weekend. I am flying to Dallas on Saturday and driving back Sunday. That's why my projects take years instead of months.

Where is that?

Thanks, guys I normally can't work on it during the week and the weekends have been so wet it is making it difficult to make progress. Same with my plating efforts. Bonzi Lon I hate the all black cables! I need to rectify that too. Did the partially burnt link limit the current so it wouldn't fire up. CO The voltage numbers to look for are just what I needed. Glad you caught the vernacular Steve, I may just take you up on that if I don't make some progress soon. I would enjoy meeting other members in person. I would like to make the Z confab but I don't know if I can swing the money. A house call may have to be in order. I will have to ask around to some friends on the food...

I would take the credit, my time is worth too much to pull the dizzy and retime everything. I also agree you could get another lemon...

My 95 suburban was stalling out on us recently. We have had a small short in it for years. The electrical shop couldn't find it so we put a circuit breaker in that fuse spot. The circuit breaker would trip and then reset when it cooled. They told me when it got to where it tripped more it would be easier to find. Recently it was tripping a lot and right before it would trip you would here the idle drop and sometimes the truck would stall. Turns out the brake light switch was shorting to the brake pedal when you stepped on it. Long story of all this is when the alternator loaded up on the direct short it would stall my v-8 Chevy that probably puts out north of 350hp and 400 Ft lbs of torque. Your belt may have been weak and it may be misaligned but I wouldn't rule out something loading the alternator up, especially since your headlights were acting up too. When they try to feed a dead short they get really hard to turn... On the headlight bypass are the feeds to the lights fused? I have these from Dave but I haven't installed one yet. If the feeds aren't fused and you developed a short there the alternator would probably shred the belt...

Steve, I believe the points setup is stock but I don't know for sure. This car is not pristine, so who knows...I don't see a lot of loose connections like I would expect if an electronic ignition had been removed.

Another for electronic ignition https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYx8J_5l5wY

I was having trouble totally understanding the operation of the points system. I found this video that boiled it down nicely. Lots of pictures always makes it better. Like I tell my wife 80% of all male communication is non-verbal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W94iksaQwUo

Looks good. Was the plug end for a block heater?

Is your voltage regulator connection still properly sealed?

Ok I will try manually triggering the points Thanks

I was messing with the 73 we have and trying to get it running again with my son. The brake booster was out and disassembled we patched it and reassembled it. Tried to start the car but no spark. I believe I have fuel and I shot some ether to it so I don't think fueling is the main issue right now. Tried to ground a plug on the valve cover, no spark Tried to ground the coil lead, no spark Checked voltage at the coil, I have voltage at the coil but am not sure what I want exactly 12v on both sides of the coil I believe, 12v on one side of the ballast, lower on the other side Check continuity to ground from the spade on the outside of the dizzy, good Continuity back into the dizzy from the spade to the points, good Tried a coil from a different car, no joy The car did run but probably not for a year or so. One other thing was when my son set the battery in I set the terminals on it backwards because he had the battery turned wrong. Can y'all give me some systematic method to check the ignition system? I don't totally understand how the system is setup. Thanks

^^^^^ Yes what he said...

Rossiz is correct. Lots of light strikes, they will tend to put the metal back without additional stretching. The sanding is a great idea too. A small wooden block or a piece of the steel bar would make a good sanding block as opposed to a foam sanding block. The hard surface will help knock down high spots.

Is it me or the fan on backwards? In the last picture the fan would rotate so the blade cuts into the air and pulls it in, right? So the curvature is normally on the inside like a boat propeller. Maybe the fan has more offset if you turn it over? Just guessing though...

Could he have damaged the circuit or coil with the tach out?

You probably have some kind of battery drain. An easy way to narrow it down is the put a test light between the battery terminal and the battery posts. It should light up some. Start pulling fuses until it goes out. That is the circuit with the drain. As for a new harness, that depends on how bad the existing one is and how comfortable you feel about patching it in.

No! No they don't... The first time I took calculus I withdrew with like a 25 out of 100. Got through with a "D" the next time. Done! I love math but calculus is not math. I don't know what it is...

I thought that might be the case

Thanks Matt, the BC site doesn't show them. I added the link after spending some time shopping.

Absolutely. Looks like a good starting point. Keep us in the loop on what you build and the results.

Great pictures. That really helps me understand the process and what the results should look like.