Patcon

No mat just the fiberglass. I use an Evercoat product that is catalyzed the same as body filler. It's green before adding the catalyzer. It is a little thicker than body filler. Smear a thin layer over your welded areas after they are ground down. If you have a pinhole it will fill it so water can't come up through it from the back side and bubble the paint. body filler is not water proof, the FG is

Looks good. I assume your finish paint for the exterior is yellow? Have you shot any test cards? When I did test panels I found that I needed to shoot white down first to get the yellow to look good, over grey it has a little green color. You're jambing the car out like I have; I used single stage over uncatalyzed white base coat but you have to top coat within 24 hrs. I have planned on 2 stage for the exterior but I think single stage looks more period correct. I still have time to decide since I haven't finished painting the suspension yet...

ksechler, you are really close to being "All down hill from here..." I think getting through finish paint is the hardest part of this kind of project. In areas like behind the drivers side wheel where you repaired it, I always use a skim coat of fiberglass over the weld seam before using filler. The fiberglass fills any pin holes in the seams and prevents water from coming in from the backside and causing bubbles. Pointed this out for anyone else doing this kind of work. No reason for you to go backwards at this point.

Charlie Osbourne makes the best floor boards in my opinion. Stampings are really close, with a little massaging on install the repairs are invisible...

Thanks

Good luck with that, I hope it goes well...

gnosez What kind of torque are you making on your motors? It was my understanding that torque was what kills drivetrains...

I like the way the door panels are with the shelve like area on the door down near the bottom. I don't know if that is a cigarette lighter on each door or a mirror control. But I like the design aspects of the door panels. The seats are pretty cool too with the Ferrariesque stitching

Thanks Steve

Looks good

Be careful if you try to drive them out. They are easily mushroomed. That is why pulling is a good method for removing them.

Steve, Did you use this part on your car? Did you have any issues with it?

I believe they all come off the same set of dies...I have ordered directly from Tabco with no problems.

New spindle pin puller design... look up his new content for his thread

Get JeffG to ship you his new toy so you can do some quality control testing for him.

Dennis, I have never driven in any of the large California cities but I have driven in Chicago, Seattle, Portland, Dallas and many of the larger southern cities, if I never had to drive through Atlanta again that would be ok. They drive really fast, which I'm ok with, but they tend to be 12" off your back bumper when your doing 20 over already...

Dave is both, Zs-ondabrain is his username. He is very knowledgeable and makes headlight harness and parking light harness upgrades that help with brightness.

Well if the car isn't full of fuel the rear of the car probably only weighs 700 pounds or so, just guessing. I can't imagine that is enough to bend a roughly 1" pipe but maybe...it is strange

Well compared to the cost...! The last time I heard about one of the heads the cost was like $25,000 or so IIRC...

Good find!

I don't think the car is heavy enough to bend those even if you lifted by them. Is it possible the car went off road and hit something? Are there any other marks on the bottom of the control arms? The tank doesn't look good, might leak like a sieve after the rust is removed. The fuel sender could be cleaned with some rust dissolver but would probably need to be disassembled first.

Jonathon, I wouldn't daily drive an S30 in Atlanta either. A tank would be my preferred choice...

Z's are not as safe as newer cars but much of whether you are at real risk is more about where you drive and how fast you drive. Are you in a rural area or a large city? Do you do a lot of high speed driving or mainly neighbor hood driving? I rebuild salvage cars and have seen many many modern cars that were fatal wrecks and dead is dead. The biggest factors in fatal wrecks is speed and whether you get hit from the side or not. The 2+2 car may have the reinforced doors, I don't know when they started that and it may have the newer door locks which were all done for safety as well as the larger bumpers. In the end I would put any of my kids in a classic Datsun. My 15 year old son just bought his first car a 72 510 wagon. We don't live in a hugely urban area and it is sort of like riding a motorcycle you have to drive very defensively.

A big harbor freight wrench would probably work fine. I wouldn't even bother to powder coat them to keep costs down. Keep them oiled and they will store just fine. I have a similar design that I bought many years ago that I have yet to break. It uses a piece of very large all thread but the design is about the same.

Jeff, How are you attaching to the pin? Boring and threading the end of the rod opposite the bolt and bearing end?