Patcon

You made a good patch on the door. Did you use a dolly and hammer to roll the seam? Also on repairs like that you can take some Eastwood frame rail sealer and shoot it down in the inside of the door. It is very thin and will run down into that seal to help prevent rust and stop the rust in the remainder of the seam from spreading.

I need some help sourcing a radiator support...I have emailed with Dave Patten from Futofab, I have emailed Rod with Rods Datsun Parts. I will have to call Courtesy but am not hopeful there. The one we have was stretched badly in a collision, I don't think I have the skills to salvage it. Anyone have a source for a 510 radiator support? TIA

Front frame rails and somewhere under the rear that's gonna be close to level. You can use pieces of plywood under the jackstands to shim the car close to level. Once the car is off the suspension you can measure the frame hard points to the floor. On the deer note, I have seen several that were worth it but none I could get the scope on. Nice deer but small by Iowa standards...

The only way I can imagine is drill down around it until it's loose enough to get the piece out. Easy outs are hardened which makes working around them difficult.

Here in the South that person might shoot back...

Did you torque the suspension sitting on the ground or up in the air? Did you get all the spring in the correct location? You can check the car by putting the car up level on 4 jack stands. Measure the car to the floor at each corner to multiple places, the wheel arch the suspension mounts the frame rails, the rocker panels. If the frame is tweaked badly it will show up. Make sure none of the suspension arms are bent... By the way nice deer...

Picking up a new head won't be a cheap option. He has a turbo car and those heads trade at a premium and then you would have to make sure all the hydraulic adjusters are good. I would remove the intake and exhaust, if there is enough to grab acetone/ ATF for a couple of days, hit the end with a hammer and try to vise grip it out. If it wont come out, remove the head and drill it out or take it to a machine shop for removal.

Welding will help but the larger thread size is better. I believe my puller is 1" threaded rod...

Did you tear the end off the threaded rod?

I would think the option would have been ordered by the dealer the way cars are down now and the dealer could have also ordered a loose part for replacement too.

Galvanic corrosion can make it really difficult to get studs out after 35 years. You will still have to pull everything off to even get a grip on it....

Applied model says "OP 4speed" is that how other optional equipment is called out on the parts diagrams?

Yes, you will probably need to get another washer and a thrust bearing. Once they start moving they pull on out, getting them moving can be a problem especially if you flared one end. Edit: Looks good though. Nice to have those kind of facilities at hand...

If you could do a property tax search. The property owner would probably give the car to someone who would haul it off. The car is a parts car any way so title isn't a big issue.

Glad it was an easy fix! Enjoy the cocktails...

I am, but a little too far away...

Are you sure there is not a lot of debris in the tank?

So you can blow air into the outlet and hear it coming into the tank? You can blow air into the filler neck and fuel comes out or you are blowing air into the return line and fuel comes out? Once fuel flows out it wont continue to come out even with a section of fuel line acting as a siphon? Is the filler cap on or off when fuel won't flow out?

I know the dimples are a factory look but I do like the very clean crisp ways these rod shops detail cars. That is a cool tip. I didn't recognize the product he used first as a hard substrate, you need that otherwise the built up areas are easily damaged. He's not afraid to use filler either...

That is insane!!!! No way

I will look to see what I have...

It is the magnetic pick up for a cruise control system. there are probably magnets taped or epoxied to the drive shaft that would have lined up with the sensor. 4 gallons is more than enough fuel to pick up, there is an issue somewhere else...

Play solitaire on your phone, helps keep you awake...good hunting...

wheee! I would suggest you experiment a little, shoot some color over a white primer, over gray and black. I believe you are shooting the green metallic. Then see which color you like the best. Under lighter colors it can make a big difference. The guys at the paint shop told me about this. Your green may not change that much or you may like the effect of the other darker colors underneath. This is why red Ferraris are primed with pink primer, it makes the red really red. ksechler I agree with wheee! the engine bay probably won't matter because there are no large flat surfaces and they are at irregular angles and different lighting. Edit: Also remember with yellow, every coat you add changes the color a little bit, red does the same thing, so it is important to try to lay on the same number of coats on the panels and the same amount of paint.

I find that time not money is the bigger challenge for me completing my car projects. Now don't get me wrong we live very modestly on a very tight budget but I go months between episodes in the shop working on the Z. That being said there are several projects that I can think of I would donate to. Blue has a very low number car that is on his project list and the super low number car on the forum that looks like swiss cheese is another. Another way to invest in the projects would be to help with parts. I have quite a number of parts laying around and would gladly help these projects that are very rare cars. I suspect that between the entire forum we could cobble together a lot of the parts necessary for some of these low number cars.