Patcon

It was the "so long folks" part that was worrying me. As guess as a mod you can change all kinds of things...

blodi Car looks great and a quadcopter and an rc plane in the background even better...

Wheee! The primer under you car looks pretty good. I wouldn't remove it unless I suspected it hid issues. I wouldn't POR over it either. I would treat any exposed metal with a phosphating product. Scuff it up good and shoot epoxy primer over that. Then color it or undercoat it. No need to POR 15 what isn't corroded. I had a patch panel on a car that was only covered with epoxy primer and sat outside for 2 years and didn't rust

Is that Blue?????

What color was the car originally, green or the lighter color?

If I remember correctly, Zed head had a car that wouldn't run without the tachometer plugged in. Don't know if that is definitive though...

Steve, Is this the same BRE that was in Memphis? I made lots of detail pictures of that car...

Very cool. Love all the milling equipment. I would really have too many projects if I had tools like that...

I figured it was because you are so precise, just surprised it was black...

Steve, Is black the proper color for the bracket instead of yellow zinc?

I think I have 2 pairs of originals in the shop some where. I plan to use them on the yellow car if I ever get it finished. I also have a pair of 260z Euro's too some where but don't own a 260/280... They still look good dusty...

Bruce, How did you make the splines on the new adaptor?

Site, Euro taillights! love it

I didn't check the part number against the Datsun part list but the seller said they don't have vent holes, early style.... Thru 12- 1970 Left 78101- E4600 Right 78100- E4600 Up from 12-1970 Left 78101- E8300 Right 78100- E8800

Sell them to Dave Patten and let him use them as patterns..

I would probably fab my own for $1400 a pair. I could either buy a small brake of have someone brake them for me then add all the holes and captive nuts. Then I could use what ever gauge I wanted. The quarters are a little harder to make your own, but I can still find salvageable ones near me or even buy one from the west coast. So as much as I would like to have them here waiting on a project I have to take a pass. Now if Blue needs them, he put ship them home. They are series one quarter panels, no vent hole...

The easiest way to force the pistons out is with the pedal or air pressure. You can use a board between the pistons to stop them from hitting each other. You can also use little C clamps to hold any particular piston to force a stuck piston out. I prefer air because it's easier and not as messy..

CO Did you make an adaptor? Did it move the wheel closer to you than stock?

Since I can't read that and didn't try to translate it. Will they ship to the US? When does the auction end? While you're at it look for a NOS frame rails...

these days I view those individuals as children...

When you rebuild them do one side at a time. That way you have a complete unit for reference. It is my understanding you want the fronts to lock before the rears to prevent snap spins. Typically the more you thread it in, the less pressure to the rear. May or may not work that way...I have heard of getting on a dirt or gravel road and adjusting your brake bias there as you don't have to be going very fast to lock up the wheels to determine your bias.

yes, I would think you would use a 2 part epoxy panel adhesive and bond them to the car. I would be afraid to throw a car with a fiberglass quarter around too much. I would also think the edges of the panels would be thicker than stock panels and make panel transitions difficult. I am hoping Dave Patten @ Futofab will use some of his connections at some point to work up some dies to stamp these. On my Christmas list...

"Fiberglass reinforced panel" ie fiberglass...

That Qtr is FRP,. personally I would find a donor qtr even if I had to do some patch work on it. Original stamping and metal

I would think the large rivet would be a problem...