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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. It looks like 1988 only?
  2. Yes What year were those for?
  3. I believe it should shift rearward. I think it should be in the track at the rear of the glass by the time it's that far up. The rear felt dragging on it will make it not tilt forward so much.
  4. The reverse bleeding is interesting
  5. I had read your posts and figured that's what I'd have to do. Thanks for the reminder
  6. That'll be a valuable car when it's done, even in this soft market!
  7. Any ideas on how to check for trapped pressure in the braking system? Clutch master...
  8. There are like five different throw out bearing collars with different stack heights. Lots of variables. Best practice is to dry stack the pressure plate, bearing and collar on the bench and measure the new parts for stack height.
  9. I am using a later master cylinder that I believe is a 280zx unit. So I shouldn't have the check valves then... Still can't get the clutch to bleed. Not manually, not by leaving it open and not with the vacuum bleeder. I guess I will have to pull it out and diagnose it.
  10. Not totally sure. I've had them for a decade at least. Is there a way to tell from the parts? When I searched, I searched based off of the previous swap recommendations for Maxima year
  11. So I looked at the Maxima caliper I torn down a month or so ago. It apparently flash rusted in my shop when my dehumidifier quit at some point. I doubt it is salvageable... So I am looking at options for how I'm going to deal with brakes. But I have a question. I was having trouble with the rear calipers not letting go all the way after being applied. I remember something about a check valve in the rear brake circuit to keep the shoes close to the drums. Is that correct? Where is it located? Is it the brass junction under the left rear of the car where the brake lines tee off? Is that why ZCardepot offers this? https://zcardepot.com/collections/brakes/products/copy-of-metric-inverted-flare-t-fitting-m10-brake-line-connector#
  12. Does anyone know if the 240SX and Maxima rear brake caliper used for rear disc conversion have the same bolt patterns and offsets? I had one of my Maxima rear calipers torn down in the shop. My dehumidifier went out during that time and it's got a good bit of rust in the bore. The Maxima calipers are not available anywhere. So was wondering if the 240SX caliper was a direct replacement?
  13. I think I found SS screws for the body to lens
  14. There is a shop in spartanburg that moght do it. Kimbrells paint and auto. They do mostly American iron but I have seen some European stuff there on occasion. You could also reach out to Diseazed and see if he has someone in Virginia that could help
  15. Where in the carolinas are you? I'm in Spartanburg
  16. Are these numbers what you expected? Do they seem inline with expectations after accounting for drive line losses?
  17. Absolutely, if you have a wideband use it!
  18. My 2 cents (45 cents) If I owned a 280z, when I started having problems with the factory EFI system, I would ditch it and go to a more modern more easily tuned system
  19. How did you make them? 3d print?
  20. I have rebuilt a booster. It takes some special tools which I had to build. I still haven't tried it to see if it works properly. If I were doing it again, I would have Harmon do it for just a few dollars more... https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/
  21. Thoughts on what it will bring?
  22. Maybe you ended up with one half of each unit?
  23. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in Internet Finds
    Diesel cranks are $1800 or more these days. $1,100 is a good price. I figure even if the car cost $500 with fees. Sell the crank. Might be able to sell the head too. Take the car for scrap for $200 - 300...
  24. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in Internet Finds
    I'm sure it still has the engine because it would sit higher without it. But I thought the same thing. They say diesel but it would be nice to see the engine for confirmation. If someone is close enough they can go by and inspect it.
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