jfa.series1

With two of the three I listed as hiem joints - solid metal and even harder than poly bushings, your dealing with a compliance issue. There is nothing flexible to absorb road shocks so they have to be transmitted back to the wheel. Technically this is not a bump steer issue as you are running stock geometry and a perfect alignment. I think your choice of suspension parts has you well on down the path of "living with it".

Per EuroDat's comment, if you've gone to poly bushings on the control arms, T/C rods and steering rack, you have eliminated all compliance in the suspension and steering. Everything is going to get transmitted directly back to the steering wheel - great for racers and A/X'ers; not so good for the average street car.

Checkout RockAuto - name brands, pre-bent, good prices. Try and avoid the generic ribbed/flex hoses - not the best looking hoses.

Core exchanges are usually after the fact - you get the new one then send in your core for a refund of the core charge. You don't have to send in your core if you don't want to, sometimes the cost to ship it back is greater than the core charge.

Yep, a Series 2 update at the factory and a common replacement upgrade for Series 1 cars with a cracked plastic tank. I thoroughly checked my tank for stress or aging cracks before putting it back in.

Here is the right side of my '71, I'm not sure how it compares to your '76 (had to get it from your profile). You can see it is a pretty busy area, not much room for big speakers - or much of anything else for that matter. Hope this helps.

Chris, That hard line comes from the fuel tank to carry vapors, it connects via a rubber hose to the small manifold to the right. Another rubber line comes to that manifold from a small pipe on the large oil pan breather tube on the block below the dizzy. A line then goes from the manifold to the back of the air cleaner. So... you have the carbs pulling in the vapors from the tank and the pan. I suspect these were changes from the earlier cars. Jim

I can't speak to changes but here are some in-process pics of my 12/70 car as I put it back together. Disregard the FIAM compressor on the left side, everything else is stock. The voltage regulator was not yet installed below the inspection light.

The Series 1's never came with a 5-speed so that is a small fib, lots of strange wiring running around the engine bay. No mention of miles or maintenance but it does look to be in good shape. Original radio and lots of other authentic bits.

Rewinds are also carried by Discount Tire. I bought a tire and wheel pkg., negotiated some savings. If you have one or an affiliate in your area, stop by and check with them. You might be able to avoid some shipping charges.

I agree with Virto - that is probably a 15" Konig Rewind. Note that the 16" Rewind has a less pronounced spoke. Here's a closeup of my 16" wheel.

Let's hope they got in all of the outdoor activities - weather radar show the entire area to be socked in with rain.

You will want to monitor this sub-forum and the classifieds. Ebay and Craigslist

Some additional pics here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ZCon2013/

Like some others, I'm also running the 16X7 Konigs. I have 205/55 tires mounted and lowered springs but get no rubbing on any of the fenders. I got the wheels and tires from Discount and was able to negotiate some $ savings with a package deal. This size tire retains the OE 25" diameter to avoid speedo errors. To get the center caps on did require a small bit of relief on the dust covers.

Here is a link to current closeouts for '71 Z's RockAuto Auto Parts

Early this year I flirted with the fantasy of attending, but would only do so if I took my little baby for the show. Then the realities (costs) of a 3-day tow each way hit home. So much for Fantasy Island!

Both orange cars look to be very nice values. Note that the second one has a dash rug, possibly hiding cracks. Check out the highly collectable rubber mats in the footwells of the black car!

Hello Tom, glad to have you as part of our group. That's a really nice looking car, too bad about the abuse by the shipper. Since the driveshaft was damaged, be sure to also check the forward mount on the differential for any damage - the rubber component may have sheared from the stress. That is a slick looking SX you pictured, congratulations on your excellent taste in accessories. Looking forward to hearing of your work with the new car, be sure to keep us updated.

Your profile identifies the car as a '69 so you are dealing with a 43 year-old part that may be compromised in other areas. Do you really want to run the risk of driving a car with fuel leaks around the tank and the potential for dangerous fumes getting inside the car? I know it's a PITA to change it out but what is your life worth?

The MSA (and BD) weatherseal items are typically from Precision Replacement Products and are generally well made. It is pretty well documented that the PRP hatch and door seals are considered "fat" and present difficulty in closing. You can try adjusting the striker on your hatch to get it down and then possibly assist it with a firm slam. Some time in your AZ sun will likely help with getting the new seal to relax. Your going to have to be patient with it - ask me how I know!

The link that Blue has provided came in shortly after I wrapped up my car but it turns out to be an exact match for how I did my replacement fuzzy strips (great minds think alike? ). A big caution for anyone going this route: the fuzzy strip is very close to the glass so it is critical that the pop-rivet be very well seated into the fuzzy material. It helps to actually tweezer out a bit of material (i.e. make a small well) after the hole is drilled to ensure the rivet seats as deep as possible. After the rivet is in, check for any burrs or sharp edges that might scratch the glass.

jcb and healyalt - I checked the BD site, the current parts offered are the same as when I purchased. No explanation for the difference in the coupe and 2+2 prices. Note that all are listed as "molding w/seal" so you are getting new stainless trim with a squeegee installed. The early 240 item at $50 each is exactly what I bought. Some searches on this site may turn up discussions where others found just the squeegee product elsewhere.

Yet another example of "no good deed goes unpunished!"

Not having a 2+2 at hand for comparison - if the squeegee length is the same for both models then you both are probably right. The squeegee-only option was not offered when I bought mine. Perhaps you guys can compare notes on your respective squeegee length and answer the question. Given the price, I suspect you are right it does not have the stainless.