jfa.series1

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+1 on Blue's recommendation. I've been a member of CTZCC for several years, they're very much into the S30 series and they're the home club for car #13. Membership is FREE, check them out here: Connecticut Z Car Club: Welcome

+1 on the above - check with a clear-bra installer for some options.

First, WELCOME to one of the best clubs anywhere: owners of Datsun Z Cars!!! If you've surfed this site, you know that pictures are a required element of participation, so you've already incurred an I.O.U. When you supply details on the car, its the same as talkin' dirty to us! As to your new project, GO SLOWLY and build a plan. Evaluate what your car needs and go through it system by system. If you take something off the car, label or bag-and-tag it, don't rely on your memory. The same goes for electrical disconnects - tag both ends of any wires before unplugging them. Don't throw anything away until the replacement is installed and working correctly. Try not to scatter-shoot all over the car unless you are planning to totally dismantle it for a rebuild. Check around to see if there is a local Z club in your area, you can often find a lot of local and free talent in the been-there /done that category. Keep us posted on your progress.

With the exception of the door weatherstrips, the windshield seal, and the hatch seals (glass and hatch frame), all of the rest of the PRP products from Black Dragon or MSA can easily be used on your Z and will work very well. They are nicely made and I've got them on my car. It is only those four items that consistently cause problems.

Any number of folks have pulled the Kia weatherstrips off of a wrecked vehicle at a salvage yard - that's where mine came from.

Beautiful car!!! Congratulations on your upcoming expansion of holdings in the DATSUN brand.

Cool tool! Thanks for posting.

Connect only one of the pin switch wires and you should be good. Tape off the unused one. I recall that one side actually uses two connects - one for the dome light and one for ??? (key buzzer?) but I have slept and drank too many times to accurately recall which one.

It's possible you're out of luck with Nissan. I pulled the P/N's from the online catalog: 76801-E4100 ® and 76802-E4100 (L) and checked Courtesy's site. 76801-E4100 comes up available at the warehouse for $71.82, however 76802-E4100 is now listed NLA. I suggest you get with your local Nissan dealer to see if they can locate the parts for you. Some Google searches might locate the parts but be sure they are actually in stock before parting with $$$.

The doors seals (59-820/821) are made by Precision Rubber Parts - PRP, and are the same ones sold by MSA. They have a bad reputation for being oversized or fat and creating significant problems in getting a door to seal properly. The forums are full of stories about bad fit problems with these products. Better choices are from Nissan or Vintage Rubber - and yes they are significantly more expensive. You pay your money and you take your choices. To specifically answer your question, only the door seal mentioned above is really needed to keep water out of the cabin.

I recommend an acid-cleaning product similar to POR's Metal Ready after you strip all the old paint and rust. If going with POR-15 paint, this is their recommended prep and is a good step for any paint process. If you're using another type paint, use a self-etching primer to get a good seal down into the metal.

Mike, Since your dad picked up the car at the POE and drove it to Cincy, that's where he probably registered it. Have you contacted the OH DMV regarding a search of early to mid-70's registrations in your dad's name? Also possibly his county of residence? These records might not be computerized but might be available on microfilm. You might try to find a local researcher who would scan the films for a fee. Genealogy groups often have researchers who do this work, I might be able to help you develop a contact if you want to pursue this approach. As stated by others, it all comes down to getting a VIN to really be able to get a start. As to ZCoT events, I'm looking forward to getting a re-introduction. Consider joining us at Cars & Coffee in Plano on 05/03 and/or the next monthly meeting on 05/15. Jim

Hi Mike, That's a great story and certainly a challenging quest. Its good that you have a picture of your dad and the car. A quick look at the hubcaps and the sail area behind the quarter window show that the car is not a '70 model but at least a post-January '71 Series 2 car. The earlier cars had a 240Z emblem on the sail panel and a different style "D" hubcap. Others can probably help with narrowing the date range for the hubcap. Good luck with your search. Jim

What springs are on the car - OE, aftermarket??? When you say new KYB struts are going on, do you mean full strut assemblies or just new shock inserts? I have Tokico HP shocks and just replaced 70's-era Interpart Mulholland springs with new Eibach Progressives. The car was level before the swap and is still level, only about 3/4" higher all around after the swap. Like zKars and olzed say, it seems you have a pre-existing condition to be identified before making other changes.

Leon - thanks for the suggested alternative. Of course, this valve is NLA from Nissan and it turns out the FSM is really a tech writer's physics exercise with no details on servicing said valve! So... has anyone ever successfully disassembled and reassembled one of these critters? I tried tugging on the end of the plunger to see if it would easily full free but no joy. Please keep in mind this is the rear valve - none on the firewall for my car.

I think we have a winnah!!! Working upstream is a great idea - lots of fluid available on the master side of the valve, dry on the other side. Now to figure out if I can clean/service this thing or have to replace it. The FSM has great diagrams and explanation of operation. Its off to the archives again. Thanks for the input!

I’ve spent this week installing new springs and all is complete, now its time to bleed the brakes. I cannot get a flow of fluid to the rear brakes. I’ve bled the MC twice – once with a vacuum bleeder, once with the old pump-bleed-tighten-release method. I’ve repeatedly tried to bleed both sides of the rears but cannot pull fluid with the vacuum bleeder. I even disconnected the RR hard line on the body that connects to the flex line and attached the bleeder. It pulled a solid vacuum and held it for 30 min. with no flow. Here are a few other bits of info: - Everything was working properly before I started the project. - The MC is ”new”, only two years old and about 2k miles since the resto was completed. - The front brakes bleed just fine. - The pedal is very hard with only a little movement – even if the rear bleeders are open. - I drove the car a few feet to check that the MC is working – it’s clear only the front brakes were actually being used. I really need some ideas on what is blocking the flow to the rear. I’ve checked the archives but just did not spot any old posts with the same symptoms. This is a real hair-puller - except I've none to pull!!! Thanks in advance for suggestions.

Tim - the only seal in the area of the door hinges is between the fender and the body. See this current thread - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/52036-seal-between-front-fender-body.html

The previous posts with a black engine bay are really well done. Here's another vote for sticking with the factory approach.

There should be a tube on the front carb right behind the dome - where the casting mounts to the manifold.

Tim - grab the Supplemental manual off of Xenon for details on the heater and other dash areas. XenonS30

Fm???

Do you have the link for the online catalogue? If so, look up your part numbers and then check with Courtesy Nissan Parts - courtesyparts.com to see if the part numbers are still available. Enter the p/n in the search box to check. if not, you may have to be satisfied with aftermarket items. You don't say what your problem with MSA is but I've had nothing but good experience and excellent customer service from them. Many of their items are actually genuine Nissan parts and you can expect some markup for their profitability.

Here are some items for you: Reference manuals - XenonS30 Download the Engine Service Manual, the Supplement Chassis Manual, and the '72 Factory Service Manual (since the '71 is not available). Almost any good degreaser will work on the engine bay. Be sure to loosen the wiring harness from the bendable keepers to lift it off the frame in that rust area. Since you're used to "newer generation" vehicles, you might be surprised that there are no vacuum lines on the early Z's - only the brakes have a master vac unit. BTW - all your brakes will likely need to be dismantled and cleaned. Underhood fuel lines are not your only concern. Rubber vent lines are also at the back (see the pic) coming off the tank and will likely need attention. Don't rush into this area, I just want to alert you to another set of lines. You will have a rubber line that connects the tank to the steel fuel line and another that connects the steel return line to the tank. You're on track with the other items. Be sure the cam is getting a good oil flow before any prolonged running. Check out post #8 on this thread, it can help you avoid a lot of problems: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/50285-starting-engine-first-time-6-yrs.html Jim