jfa.series1

Pretty sure they are aluminum - very light, the cracked one flexes too easily for steel.

I am refurbishing a 240Z grill and need replacement outboard vertical struts, both sides. On this grill, one is broken cleanly and the other is cracked. So... if anyone has parted out a grill, lets make a deal. Thanks.

I recently bought a Covercraft poly/cotton cover and well pleased with my choice. The fit is excellent and the construction looks to be the same. The finish on the material is a bit hard, should probably soften up a bit with a couple of washings. My intended use is strictly indoor storage, the cover will likely outlive me!

Try some mineral spirits on a Q-tip to gently work thru the overspray and not put a lot of pressure on the printed elements of the plate.

That is one fine looking car and you are doing an outstanding job on it. Congratulations on your find - Safari Gold rules! How about adding the VIN to your signature?

You're a couple of hundred miles from the D/FW area but we always have something going on. Check out the Cowtown Z Club (Fort Worth) and the Z Club of Texas (Dallas) on Facebook for our local events and meetings. New faces are always welcome. Hope to Z'ya soon!

Science Marches On!

Be sure to schedule a visit with Bruce in Philadelphia for the full anal-retentive approach to Z care and upgrades!

Mine is E3001, 8 3/4" from the shoulder of the stopper to the tip. I measured from the shoulder because that's what hits the tube and controls the depth into pan. Mine is original to the car.

You should have a second hard line down on the frame rail under the fuel pump with an end pointed up just like the fuel supply line. That's the return line to the tank. It is a smaller diameter than the supply line.

This is the best I can offer - taken while getting the handbrake installed.

On my first (and only) Z I went the budget route on all the lines several years ago and no regrets now. I cleaned and stripped them thoroughly with a Scotch Brite, cleaned again with degreaser followed by acid wash. Taped the threads on all nuts, primed with self-etching primer followed by a silver metallic paint and topped with a clear coat. Here's the results from back in 2011 when the car was being put together, everything is still just as bright. With no significant heat near any of the lines, there may be little benefit from using a caliper paint.

@Zedyone_kenobi Stephen - you owe no one an apology and no need to feel "survivor's guilt". There will always be some who are more fortunate than others. It sounds like you and your wife did your part as did so many others. We have a good friend in Fort Bend county whose home was saved by a levee that held. Her three adult children and their families also came thru OK - one also in Fort Bend, one in Friendswood, one in Brazoria County. Luck is where you find it, there is no other explanation required. I'm glad to hear you and yours are OK. You and others with no damage will be a major part of the foundation for Houston's recovery - be proud of that opportunity. Looking forward to the next time to see you and swap stories - yours will be the best. Jim

Yep, the antenna switch power is independent of the radio being present. If you get inconsistent results from the switch it may be that the contacts are fouled - that happened to me. Its an easy disassembly and cleaning job to get fresh contacts for smooth operation.

Dan, I'm not aware of a relay associated with the antenna switch, at least none on my car. I presume you have a OE rocker-style antenna switch from your description of the wires. You are correct on one wire (blue) providing power into the switch, the other two wires provide power out to the OE antenna for either the up or down action. How this might work for an aftermarket antenna I can't say. You might have to experiment with testing a variety of connections off the car with a battery and some clip-on leads. Jim

The OE antenna is grounded to the body by a bracket at the bottom of the antenna - the bracket usually attaches with a wingnut to a screw welded to the body down in the space below. The two wires from the antenna are for the up/down power. If the antenna is out of the car, test it by attaching a ground to the body and then power to each lead one at a time.

That is an amazing looking car! Congratulations on a great find. You have exquisite taste in color (no bias toward Safari Gold here, none whatsoever )! I'll add to the recommendations on the relay upgrades for the headlights and turn signals / parking lights. Those changes will take a huge load off the fuse box and switches. Also consider upgrading the flasher cans for the turn signals and hazard lights to newer electronic models. The turn signal can is on the steering column, the hazard can is on the right side kick panel.

He looks to be too big for that small car. Stay close - he'll probably be looking for friends to exercise it for him!

I texted Stephen @Zedyone_kenobi this morning to check on him, no response yet. Power / cell service may be out.

Jeff, You did really well by this car, congratulations on a job well done! We'll all be looking forward to the next chapter in your Z life. It was a pleasure to meet you and the car in Austin, looking forward to catching up with you in Atlanta (if not sooner). Jim

What he said.

I used a big C clamp to compress the assembly to get the nut on the rod.

You've got two weatherstrip products with attached welting - why not try each of them to see if one works better than the other. I tried PRP several years ago and encountered the "fat seal" problem, switched out to Kia and happy with the results.

If you're absolutely set on OE rubber bushings, then consider contacting David House at Courtesy Parts (david@courtesyparts.com). He can scan dealer inventories across the U.S. to see if any are available. If so, he can have them shipped to Courtesy and then he can ship to you. You'll pay parts cost and all shipping.