jfa.series1

I presume you have the rubber boots installed for the hinges. Do you also have the thin plates below that keeps the boots from deforming? This is not a shim per se but it somewhat acts like one. These plates are not available as a Nissan P/N, were originally packaged with the OE boots as an assembly. There is a shim listed as a P/N, not all cars required them, see item #24 on the link below. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/tail-gate-panel-trim-lock-rear-bumper

Hmmmm... this sounds like a hatch alignment problem to me. The outer seal should be under the thin lip of the hatch but not under any of the thick part. If the thick part of the hatch is contacting the outer seal when closing, the hatch is too close to the body suggesting the hinges are missing some shims. The closest the thick part of the hatch should be to the outer seal is to very slightly touch it when the hatch is fully closed - it should nestle inside that seal, never press down upon it. Now, as to the inner seal: if it is breaking away when the hatch is closing it is likely the hinges are contacting the seal and knocking it loose. The seal shape you have may not be formed correctly to clear the hinges. A friend had a similar ongoing problem and he ended up buying a new inner seal from MSA - one by PRP I think. Here's a pic of my inner seal, also by PRP. The vertical rib to the left fits into a recess on the underside of the hatch and the change in the shape to the right allows the hinge to clear. Hope this helps you in diagnosing the problem.

When I worked on my car years ago the one-piece bulb profile was not yet available. I ordered the OE-style pieces but didn't like the side transition from bulb to the "L" shaped sides - even though that's how the Nissan engineers designed it. I returned the side pieces and bought two more uppers, cut off the corners and made a continuous bulb profile for the sides. As @Namerow says, installing the top section is a real PITA with the hatch installed - been there, done that!

The outer (thin/narrow) seal is just a first line of defense (a deflector) to keep water out but is not the main seal. If you are getting water into the cabin, then your inner seal is not doing its job. Check to see that it is snug against the hatch all around and that it is firmly glued in place and not moving when the hatch closes. The outer seal is available in a three piece set - similar to OE, or a one-piece option from MSA.

The bulb socket / reflector should fit into a groove in the rubber mount - the "ears" of the reflector should not be visible to the holes for the mounting screws. When the screws pass thru the stainless retainer and lens into the mount, they should not be touching any part of the reflector as there should be a rubber wall around each screw. The screw then attaches to the clip on the fender. If all is well, the reflector is "floating" in the rubber mount and not grounded to the fender via the screws. Hope this helps a bit.

Working to keep your right-seat partner from going into "beast mode" on the trip to Atlanta???

I resemble that remark. I presume the rusty tu*d will have a utility trailer attached with all the tools and spares necessary for a complete in-flight rebuild.

Cliff, thanks for the kind words. With the big win in Memphis, ZCCA "retired" my car from eligibility in future judged competitions. I can still enter peoples' choice events and "exhibit" the car at a judged show. That and parade laps at Road Atlanta are enticing but overall not an adequate justification for an 800 mile tow from Dallas. We plan to make the trip but will have to be content cheering on other worthy entries. Looking forward to Z'ing you and other good friends at the big show. P.S. - Branson is a much more reasonable tow in 2019!!!

Guy - thanks, pics of the rear are on page 2.

Transition complete - we be shiny at both ends now . That's my killer deal NOS JDM unit on the front that I stumbled across locally a couple of years ago. It had been in a guy's garage attic for over 35 years (still in factory pkg.) and I just happened to spot his CL ad. Yes, its a chrome unit but it will take a sharp eye to distinguish it from the SS unit on the rear. BTW - I paint the license brackets black to avoid a Ollie-the-dragon snaggletooth look - from farther away they disappear into the grill.

Here's my side-by-side pic of my old fuse box next to the MSA long-tail replacement. As best as I can make out, the label on the white wire with the male bullet connector reads "horn".

Please tell Shelley thanks for me, I always appreciate a second opinion. Now I just have to figure a way to get Shelley as a judge at any show I enter.

Check out the first post in this thread - see the link.

No additional fees.

I'm declaring success! Here are my before and after pics. I've had the painted bumpers on for 7 years so it's going to be an adjustment to now seeing a bright finish. Overall, the fitment went very well. The arc on the center section is a perfect match with the rear valance. The body mount on the left end was welded a bit rearward but the bracket was easily adjusted. Here are significant things to note: The threaded fittings are all M10-1.5, a more coarse thread than OE. New bolts and nuts are required. The threaded fittings all have paint on them, need to cleaned and chased with tap and die. The carriage bolt kit does not contain lock washers. I'll give the vendor some feedback on that. Next up is installing my JDM front bumper to complete the transition to "Oh, Shiney"!

OK gang, I promised updates and here they are: I have product! Whoo hoo!!! The package arrived a while ago and I got everything open and inspected. The packaging was very good, all sealed in a durable tape. The bumper parts were very well wrapped in bubble, then fabric, then clear tape. The finish is outstanding - looks like chrome. The kit includes the bolts to connect the end caps to the center bar - note the square holes are larger than an OE bumper. I intend to work on the install this weekend (100 degrees forecast for here! ), I'll post more updates on that. Here's some info on the timeline: I ordered and paid on 05/25, asked that the PayPal invoice state 1971 240Z rear bumper, no rubber, no holes. They complied perfectly. Shipping to TX was previously quoted at ~10 days. Tracking was not initially provided and they sent a followup email yesterday to check on the arrival and satisfaction (nice touch). I replied not yet, didn't have tracking to check. They immediately sent UPS tracking that showed delivery scheduled for today. The pkg. was handed to UPS in Viet Nam on 06/18 and leads me to believe their process is a make-to-order. That makes sense to me as they advertise a huge assortment of bumpers available. Keep tuned to this station for more on this continuing story...

On another pass thru the pics I spotted Eiji wearing our Z Club of Texas T shirt. Yee Hah!!!

Great photo spread, thanks for sharing it with us.

Janet will be flying to ZCON no doubt!

Similar experience here. David or Butch at the counter of Courtesy Nissan Parts understand the parts and know how to find them if they are at all available. Club discounts are standard, online prices are already fully discounted. I have parts shipped to the store at no cost, always a good reason to stop by for a friendly chat.

Its good to be unique, its good to be special! Thanks for representing the brand.

Finally got the radiator back from the shop yesterday. Whenever I have this type work done I always specify "no paint". Cleanup the tanks and frame with a Dremel and a cup brush, wipe down with wax and grease remover, tape up and primer. Wet sanding and gloss black paint on the schedule for tomorrow.

Nice job on that install. It looks like the shop did some cuts and welds on the "S" section to improve the fit. Here is the same kit I installed a few years ago, probably like yours. For those of us that did not cut the pipe, getting the muffler tucked in and out of sight tends to present a challenge. That's why we've had the numerous discussions on which end is "in" and "out" and tilting the muffler.

You're not at all biased, right???