jfa.series1

You are also going to need the duct/plenum that fits behind the grill to catch water and direct it to the drain hole in the bottom of the hatch. The duct should have a short flex tube to span the end of the duct to the hatch. These are from the UK: https://www.ebay.com/itm/167065483403?_skw=240z+hatch+vents&itmmeta=01JJZ66Q30BWTMV8WR2YXXYR5R&hash=item26e5e0f88b:g:bcoAAOSwr3pnKRvn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm55FiopAQ%2BmVZ1ZX8nTu4WANBVgSI2wRbT%2F87JeaqQn4RJ3JIUmQIjSLV%2BS%2B5C3B%2BMGINXJ9GUPkY55%2BP0ulAoKuxp8XzGIgrgH8Zq%2Fo5TbqAAECga28ib5sLfKEo0D5q9RFCqumfRSdRkSWvgPhJuZM0gfBticYck6z4N7Q2yfNGUu27HC8PwllwQyGhf42O6aEVaLgcH4siWsi9bMDhphRQIbvNgwshcX%2BZRKOIgX5Zytv1b%2BEIu07lKbF4vaB%2BPLBn59HxH6Z2rW9R9qot0vPB%2BusOj4XKLCAOzK2BiDw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-PGa5pdl

Thinking about this later this morning I now remember why I took the pic. When I tore down the car 10 years prior I now remember seeing fragments of the open cell foam seal. At the time all I had was a film camera and didn't take pics of all of the tiny details. Forward to 2009 and getting into the resto, I recalled the seal details and took the digital pic, intending it as a reassembly reminder.

There was a seal of sorts there. Here's a pic of me making a note of the remains of the seal for a future reminder (which I later forgot). The remains were consistent with the open cell foam material used eslewhere.

Welcome to the group, great looking car and you definitely got the color right! 😉 It certainly looks to have been well kept. Be sure to reach out to the Z Club of Texas if you are ever up in the DFW area. You can find us on Facebook and at our website. Tip: Update your forum signature with your VIN and build date for any questions going forward.

Yup, definitely a '71 for the reasons you state and a couple of others: bumpers in nice and tight against the body, fuel door has a lock, straight gear shift rod to match the early console. At least he has good intentions with the article.

Just a single washer on mine also.

I'm a bit embarassed to be listed in the same sentence as Carl, Kats, and Allen - all much more knowledgeable in the details of our cars than I. I was under the impression that all cars through the end of the '71 model year had "D" hub caps and that the style and center ornament changed with the '72 models. On a bit of a tangent, we find ourselves in another discussion of Series 1 vs. Series 2, ...etc. It has been pointed out many times that Nissan never used those terms and that it is merely an invention of the car owners and enthusiasts (I plead gulty!). We often get into very active (heated?) discussions about this naming convention and I've been giving some thought to a possible alternative. We know that the so-called Series 1 cars were produced into late January 1971 and all had the type "A" (monkey motion) transmission among other unique styling attributes. Beginning with VIN HLS30-21001 in February the cars were fitted with the type "B" transmission with required console design changes as well as other changes in design features. So... it might be more accurate to replace the Series 1 or Series 2 references with "Type A" and "Type B" designations. Thoughts?

Positive offset moves the wheel center inboard, use negative offest to move it outboard to the fender arch. https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-is-wheel-offset?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpOW8lqevigMVYDfUAR36lTkyEAAYASAAEgI7tfD_BwE&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIpOW8lqevigMVYDfUAR36lTkyEAAYASAAEgI7tfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!354820921610!p!!s!!wheel offset chart&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=5

That might be me, I did this Rube Goldberg approach solo in my garage. I installed a couple of large hooks (bike hangers) in the base plate of the garage wall, ran a large ratchet strap from one hook, thru the hatch opening, around the window, back to the second hook - ratchet on this end. Easy on the pressure to gently pull and hold the window into position to get the screws lined up. Lube the new seal a bit to allow it slide against the body. East peasy!!!

Hey Cliff, Sorry to hear you had to go under the knife but glad that all is working out well for you. This certainly gives new meaning to the term "repro parts"! 😄 Best regards, Jim

Dang, you sure know how to make a guy feel bad about his gearbox! 😪

That's how I have them stacked.

Product arrival from the Netherlands yesterday, new seals and welting as anticipated. Next up is to watch the install video on their website. Wheeee!!! 😁

Here you go:

@GoldAir A tip: cut some of the excess off of the print so that you can tape it securely to the foam so it does not move around while doing the pattern cuts.

I have a scan of the gasket that you can print on a standard 8.5X11 page. Get some 1/8" thick closed cell foam and lay the print on it. Use a very sharp hobby knife to cut out a new gasket. I've used this process several times for license light refurb. License Light Gasket.pdf

Yep, I see that now.

Here's a starting point: https://www.courtesynissan.com/parts/

The US version, and presumably for North America, has only a single dual-filament bulb for this light. It would be interesting to learn where a dual bulb version was used.

Ooops - I just looked at the combo switch openings. This one must be for a RHD.

Looks like 48470-E4601. Very nice!!!

I was recently gifted with a box of S30 antennas and associated parts. I hope to refurb them and get them in the hands of new owners. Of three antennas with mast bases, one is marked Harada and the other two have no branding whatsoever. The branded and non-branded units appear to be virtually identical in all respects, except for branding. Both have what might be a date stamp. My question to the group is: did Harada produce non-branded antennas or was there another manufacturer involved building identical but unbranded units, perhaps under license from Harada?

This is not a new problem, any number of owners of early cars experienced the same issue, myself included. The problems lies with a thick weld bead at the bottom of the strut tube that prevents the KONI insert from fully seating. The problem is visible when the gland nut will not install to the correct depth. KONI and MSA worked on a solution in the form of revised gland nuts with a longer thread body. MSA supplied these modified gland nuts at no cost to customers reporting the problem. I recommend you reconnect with MSA and request the modified gland nuts. BTW, the problem seemed to be limited to the front struts as there were no reports of rear struts having the issue.

I spotted this on one of my FB groups (S30 Life), looks to possibly be a great product for all S30's. Interesting wording on the product description: an exact fit for '69-72 models to 06/72, then a very good fit for all later models. Anything coming out of the folks at S30 World is usually spot on. https://s30.world/product/datsun-240z-nissan-fairlady-z-set-of-door-rubbers-door-weather-strips-for-lr-side?fbclid=IwY2xjawFn5BlleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHaFz08OpowthIb4moKiiPnBPNcmmq4RaSxakN8zokI1Jhbkwj32GjHmYIg_aem_XFFA0aZ0MJ1qJZtj6rG2cA

It looks like I stand corrected, moving to figure two with the arrow confirms the grease reservoir was limited to 240Z models and discontinued for the 260Z and later. I too had never noticed the arrow function before - learn something new every day.