jfa.series1

Yep, barrel clips are on the pins on the back of the emblem. A little spray lube can usually help to ease them out. Try to get a thin plastic pry tool to lever the emblem away from the body.

OK, we understand you don't care for a ragtop, so... how about the Boxster's hardtop brother - the Cayman? Tons of performance and a really sweet ride. I pedaled a 2000 Boxster as my DD for 9 years, over 100k miles and never lost the grin. On the C7, I don't care for the back end. I think they sold out to the Camaro guys. Oh... mama said to never buy release 1.0 of anything!

Ollie, If you have not already done so, be sure to get appropriate insurance on your baby. I don't know if Hagerty writes policies in Canada but they do a good job with agreed-upon value at reasonable rates.

I do recall sending out the spreadsheet, just not to whom it went. So... tell us all - did you have the courage to maintain your own spreadsheet of every single item and cost that went into your project? Mind you, I'm not asking you to open the kimono - just admit to tracking the investment. Again, beautiful car. Congrats.

When the time comes to pry the keys from my cold, dead hands (sound familiar?), I can only hope my car moves on to a youngster such as Ninja who will care for, drive and enjoy it for another 40+ years and perhaps take it to the century mark.

A flashback to one of my former lives when I used a handbrake turn on a very tight 180 degree turn to win an autocross on the grounds of the State Fair of Texas.

An outstanding effort and beautiful attention to detail. Congratulations.

Welcome to the club and your mid-life crisis! Looks like a nice ride, tell us a bit more about it. Of all the things you could be doing with your second life, this will be one of the most fun. Enjoy the ride and keep us posted with what you do with the car.

The car went for $24,150. 1973 Datsun 240Z | The Bruce Weiner Microcar Museum 2013 | RM AUCTIONS

For those without A/C, here is an alternative approach that avoids turning the glove box into an ugly piece of origami: remove the heater fan motor to gain clearance space and pull the glove box out the back. During my resto work, I purchased a new one from BD and was well pleased with the quality and workmanship of the MADE IN USA item. It installed easily from the back as long as the fan was out.

Agreed, your BD piece looks a bit wonky and I suspect it will not install well. Here is a pic of the typical 3-piece stock set-up from MSA. As best I know, their's and BD's are all made by PRP. I did not like the change in shape on the lower pieces and was not getting a seal on the hatch lip. I returned them and bought two more top pieces to get a continuous shape and snug seal. I don't recall a one-piece at MSA when I made my buys. If their current one-piece has the bulb-shape all the way, I'd recommend you go with it.

There is no master rubber bushing kit available. With the exception of the steering rack, all of the bushings are still available from Nissan. The factory steering rack bushings are NLA. Beck/Arnley made OE-equivalent replacement rubber bushings, but those are getting hard to find. Rockauto recently had a single unit on closeout, the P/N's you would be looking for are 101-3630 and 101-3631. I found one side at Rockauto and the other on eBay.

Given that you admit to this being your first car project, your caution is well advised. Altho your experience is lacking, how are your skills? Mechanically adept? The suspension on your car is actually a very straightforward design and relatively easy to work on. Have you picked up any manuals - Haynes or others? If not, that is your starting point - read them and then read them again to get familiar with the parts, tools, techniques. Can you locate any other Z owners in your area to get some advice and/or mentoring from? For a novice, I do recommend you arrange for a buddy to assist during the actual work. As to tools, nothing special or exotic is required. A good set of metric sockets + open and box end wrenches is usually adequate. As to your choice of urethane bushings, be prepared for a much more solid (harsh?) ride. I know - been there, done that and going back to rubber! If you proceed, the MSA kit is probably as good as any. It is complete and a nice set of products - it is the one I bought. Good luck with your project. Don't overlook the site's search function for the S30 Suspension section. Lots of folks have already been down the road, lots of tips and info has already been posted. Jim

A nicely documented car and it looks very good overall. Of course, I'm a sucker for 920 Gold. Not a fan of the split exhaust nor the paint job on the tailight surround that covered the SS trim but those things can easily be changed.

You've received some excellent advice on how to remove the SS taillight trim on the rear panel. Let me offer a contrasting viewpoint. If you plan on polishing the trim, it is best done while it is still firmly mounted on the panel. Once off the panel, the trim will be very bendy and hard to control while polishing. The likelihood of getting a crimp while handling it is very high. Others have already raised the risks you face in the reinstall process. A polish such as Simichrome by Happich is excellent for the trim. If you are going to refinish the rear panel pieces, masking off the SS trim is easily accomplished. Some patience, a good quality painter's tape, and a hobby knife will ensure you have all trim covered and all painted areas exposed. Just a comment from the loyal opposition! Jim

When I bought my car over 40 years ago, the dealer had cut off the rubber and installed the guard directly to the chrome. As Carl B. says - FWIW!

If all you do is dip the wheels as they are, you will be locking in all the dirt, blems, and dull finish. Your car, your wheels - just saying that a modest amount of effort can have a nice reward.

I also went with the MSA ceramic coated header. Fitment and installation was spot-on, absolutely no clearance issues in the engine bay. Yeah, the car is not tracked so I cannot speak about any performance issues but it is a nice product for other use.

The side mirror looks to be turned vertical. That Butterscotch interior is to die for - simply scrumptious!!!

Zowee! Looks like something more appropriate to a display case than putting back on the car.

You are correct that these lines supply the heater. However... they also connect around the back of the engine to the carbs and then back into the block. Look a bit closer to all the plumbing before making a decision.

Stian, Will clear lenses with colored bulbs pass your government requirements? If so, here is a U.S. eBay listing that recently closed, not marked as sold. The auction was for the lenses only, they might still be available. If you can stay with the original light fixtures, it will avoid cutting up the car and having potential water leaks or other problems. Datsun 240Z Clear Euro Tail Lights RARE Custom | eBay Nice little Series 1 you have coming to you. The VIN suggests it is a January 1971 build date, right at the end of the series. Enjoy your car and keep us posted when it arrives. Your English is great!!! Jim

Check out the SEM products at their site. Use the map on the homepage to locate a dealer near you. Here is the link to their page for flexible coatings: http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/flexible-coatings/

Bryan - the leading edge of the quarter glass frame is usually painted a satin black. It makes for a nice finished look, your door gasket color will blend right in.

I have registered there, they have my car on file.