jfa.series1

View Advert Restored 1973 240Z Grill Completely disassembled and stripped to bare metal. Parts repaired or replaced as needed. Primed, wet sanded, finished in OE grey. Ready for installation on your restoration project. Note: does not fit the 1970-72 240Z as the outer/lower brackets are different. $235 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/25/2023 Price $235 Category Parts for Sale

I spotted a FB post the other day where someone was asking about the best oil and filer for their L-series engine. So. I did a search on any available reports or charts on zinc / ZDDP content and came across this one. The new Castrol product is certainly better than the one listed in the chart but the Lucas oils still seems to be the top conventional oil products. ZDDP Chart.pdf

View Advert Restored 240Z Side Markers Original equipment IKI 5004 lamp bodies and lenses. Completely disassembled, bodies commercially replated in clear zinc, lenses cleaned and polished to a like-new finish – no cracks or scratches. Stainless steel bezels polished to a chrome-like finish. OE wiring with new shrinkwrap, new incandescent bulbs, new fender clips. This set has new reproduction rubber mounting adapters. Bullet terminals for the front and rear light ground wires will be configured per buyer’s specifications. Some 240Z’s had a female ground terminal, some had a male ground terminal. The set of four lights is $265. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/21/2023 Price $265 Category Parts for Sale

Very interesting. I suspect the lens you pictured is unique to the Euro export vehicles. It looks like the IKI # is 5005, all of the lenses I've worked with are IKI 5004 as are the lamp bodies. Our North American versions also specify SAE PIA69 at the other end, and some but not all have DOT just above the SAE. Ours have no other lettering on the lens surface. The orientation of the raised IKI 5004 is opposite of yours. The RH / LH designations are found on the underside of the rubber adapter. I am just getting underway on assembling some sets of refurbed markers.

Deal pending.

View Advert 1973 240Z Switch Set Totally refurbished set of LHD turn signal and light switches. The combo light switch is close to a like-new condition. The plastic stalk elements are shiny and free of scratches. The wiring is in perfect condition. The turn signal lever has a fresh gloss black finish. Wiring is in near perfect condition. Both switches have been fully disassembled for cleaning and servicing. The contacts on both switches have been cleaned and polished, and have been continuity checked for proper operation. The switches are available individually or as a set. Each switch is $250, the set is priced at $450, a 10% discount. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 07/06/2023 Price $450 Category Parts for Sale

Agreed. I just helped a buddy recover his 280Z seats, they had the same spring design.

When I look at the underside pic of the seat, I see some pretty rough attachments at the various seat barbs suggesting those covers are not OE. The factory would never have released seats like that. Also the vinyl is exceptiionally smooth, doesn't show the typical grain of OE seat covers.

Yet another welcome to the group! That's a sweet looking car, should be great for a father and son project. Looking forward to your progress updates and we are all here for any help you need along the way.

Not to hijack the OP's thread but here is one more Nissan blue tape "Easter Egg", this one is for the fog light circuit.

That connector is idle on my car also, a solid green wire. if the wiring harness was common to the auto transmission car, given the location it might be part of that function.

View Advert Restored 240Z Tail Light Panels PRICE DROP! A complete set of restored 240Z tail light panels is now off the bench and ready for a new home. This set has been taken down to bare metal and refinished. Starting with OE-like flat red primer, wet sanded and then finished with two coats of OE-like grey. The stainless steel bezels are straight and free of dings, are polished to a chrome-like finish. I’ve included a pic of what panels with this restoration process look like as installed on my car. The 3-piece set is $350, including standard domestic shipping. International shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 06/10/2023 Price $350 Category Parts for Sale

From the online parts catalog: Two versions for the 240Z, one version for the 260Z + '75-76 280Z, and one version for the '77-78 280Z. These parts typically have the P/N molded on the inner side of both pieces.

Here's a possible approach: if the relay appears to be the only PO mod, consider using your FSM wiring diagram to put everything back to OE state. Then proceed with debugging your wiring from a known baseline. Otherwise you are chasing bugs from an unknown starting position and having to compensate for his mod(s)..

If you have not already done so, download the FSM for your car - it will have your wiring diagram: http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/FSM/1974 260z FSM.zip It definitely sounds like you have a dead short somewhere, that is why the PO cut the wires. Interesting that it does not take out a fuse, perhaps wiring somewhere is heating up to the point of separating and killing the circuit. Since everything worked one time when you made repairs and hit the combo switch suggests the switch is not the culprit.

Correct, the OE flashers are usually a aluminum can. They typically have a metal tab for a small screw to mount to a surface. The new ones usually have a plastic case, no mounting tab. You can glue a tab to the case for the mounting screw.

The OE cans are "thermal" - they use a bi-metal strip that heats and cools at differing rates depending on the flow of the electrical current. They usually operate more slowly at idle and then speed up as engine revs increase. The newer units are termed electro-mechanical, operate at a constant rate independent of the engine speed.

That same unit will also work for your hazard lights. That flasher can is mounted at the top of the passenge side kick panel. I switched out to these units years ago and love the performance improvement, all with incandescent bulbs.

Unless you have a particular interest in going with aftermarket carbs, the '70-72 240Z stock Hitachi carbs are a great fit for your car. Everything is readily available, including manifolds, linkage, and air filter box.

The full-length bulb-shaped seal is my own invention 12 years ago. I did not like the OE-style side seals just as you don't. I sent them back to MSA and purchased a second top seal and used sections of it as side seals to get a full coverage with a bulb-shape seal. Look closely at my pic and you will see the two ends butted together.

Good to hear that was glue on the inside and not rust. Installation of the outer hatch seal will be much easier with the hatch removed. Weatherstrip adhesive is the best product for these seals. Looks like you are making good progress.

The hatch has two seals - outer and inner. The outer seal is small and installs on the pinch weld seam aound the hatch. The top portion is usually bulb shaped to fit snugly against the hatch flange so rain is channeled to the sides and down to the slam panel. Your pics show this seal is missing. In my pic I also have bulb-shaped outer seal on the sides as well as the top. The rust you show inside at the hinge are suggests your hatch hinge boots are compromised and should be replaced. These plates are an important part of the hinge boot install. They fit between the hinge and the boot and prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. Unfortunately the plates are not available as a separate P/N. They came to Nissan as an assembly with the OE boots. As to your squeegee strip install, pop rivets work very well to secure the rubber strip to the door trim. Space them about every 4". This is far easier than working wirh wire or attempting to re-use old staples. The same approach works well with the fuzzy strip at the top of the door panel.

Wow Cliff, you are really digging deep into the archives!

Here's your B-pillar piece: And here's your window frame piece:

View Advert 1973 240Z Switch Set UPDATE: Sale Pending. Totally refurbished set of LHD turn signal and light switches. The combo light switch is close to a like-new condition. The plastic stalk elements are shiny and free of scratches. The wiring is in perfect condition. The turn signal shows a slight loss of plating, the lever has a fresh gloss black finish. Wiring is in near perfect condition with only discoloration on one connector. The contacts on both switches have been cleaned and polished, and have been continuity checked for proper operation. The switches are available individually or as a set. Each switch is $250, the set is priced at $450, a 10% discount. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 04/03/2023 Price $450 Category Parts for Sale