jfa.series1

Sold: Harmonic Balancer, NOS Steering Coupler, Wiper Blade Frames, Crossmember Plates, Sidemarker Boots, Series 1 Panel, Fuel Pump Plate, Differential Mount, Inspection Lids.

A couple of responses, thanks. Please include a shipping address if you are contacting me, will need it to get actual postage costs on most items.

Hey gang, I have a bunch of parts available - some new, some NOS, some refurbished, and some just plain used. Too many to photograph and list individually. Check out the attached PDF and get back to me if there is something you're interested in. Rather than clutter the forum, I suggest a PM or email (listed on the bottom of the PDF). Note that shipping is extra at actual cost on all items. Jim Parts List 09-21-18.pdf

Thanks for correcting my rash statement on "no vacuum", I overlooked the dizzy advance.

In that these cars had NO vacuum lines other than the brake booster, the quick answer is none are needed. Look closely and you'll see that they are attached to the overflow ports on the carb float bowls. Normally these ports would be connected to the factory air filter box so the PO connected them to the CAI tubing. Right now your safe bet is to leave it all in place. Long-term, clean it all up by removing the CAI setup as previously recommended and get a stock air filter box back on it. Here's a pic of a heat shield missing from your set-up, it bolts to the intake manifolds and provides a significant barrier of exhaust heat to the bottom of the carbs. It can be installed with a header as on your car.

Seriously nice work! I thinks lots of folks will appreciate this. Perhaps it should be added to the technical library.

Joe - I installed new squeegee strips in the same manner as the fuzzy strips we recently covered: an even spread of pop rivets. Jim

Remember - you are known by the company you keep. We'll always have Austin!!!

@Zedyone_kenobi - did mine on the cheap and refinished it myself.

Here: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

Sounds a bit like the slave cylinder has failed. it might be an internal failure without an external leak. Get one person to operate the clutch pedal, another to observe if the clutch fork is moving.

Torrential rain in our area all day, kept us from attending a really great car show that I've been looking forward to since last year. So... it was back to the bench to continue work on restoration & refurb projects. Today's output: three inspection lights - one complete with new lens and two others waiting on bulbs and lens.

I treated Baby to a Brazilian today. Pretty sure I heard a deep sigh of appreciation in the exhaust note afterwards.

I understand your concern over remembering where everything goes after plating - we all go thru that. Here's a suggested approach: - During disassembly, carefully bag and tag everything immediately as it comes off the car. DO NOT consolidate stuff, make it specific. Use a paper tag inside the zip bag with the parts to identify what it is / where it came from - a felt tip marker on the bag can easily rub off. - Thoroughly clean everything in a bag, remove all rust, dirt, paint, ...etc. The better you clean things, the better your plating results (remember the old axiom: garbage in. garbage out). A wire brush wheel on a bench grinder is great! Take stuff apart wherever possible: bolts, nuts, washers, springs, ...etc. If the factory plated things before assembly, so should you. - When a bag of parts is clean, photo the parts with the paper tag visible. Put it all back in the bag until all is done. - Small parts like washers, nuts, tiny springs can and will get lost in plating if left loose. Use some thin, soft wire to make closed loops for like things: nuts, washers, springs. For tiny screws, tightly wrap thin wire a couple of times around the threads then give it a twist to lock it in place (see pics). - When everything is cleaned, the moment of truth arrives: time to dump everything into a big zip bag to take to plating. Save your small bags and tags for use later when it all comes back. If you've properly documented everything, you should be able to return all parts to their original bag with tag. Good luck. -

As @Patcon says, there is no such list. A very general "rule of thumb" is that unpainted parts from the firewall forward are plated yellow zinc and parts aft of the firewall are clear (white) zinc. One noted exception to the clear zinc rule is the fuel filler cap and neck - those are yellow zinc. Your best bet is to surf for pics of engine bays and other areas that have been restored to locate parts to be plated.

Given some time to think back I finally figured out how I have two extra bolt sets. I had a machine shop press out the spindles on the control arms and one was stuck so badly that the control arm bent! I ordered a replacement from the Z Barn (remember Roger?) and it came with the bolts installed - typical excellent service as always.

FYI - I have two of these rascals available if needed. I have no idea how I came to have only two, and yes - all four of mine are installed. Too many beers between then and now to remember these details.

That's some fine looking Canadian patina you have there!

I just wrapped up another Rescue & Refurb project - this Kyosandenki fuel pump. It turned out really well so I feel like strutting a bit! It will be listed for sale as soon as I get some other stuff behind me. So many partZ - so little time.

I noticed the seller's Ontario postal code is L0L - Canadian humour?

Yet another welcome to the group. It sounds like you have the gift that keeps on giving. By now you probably know there's a lot of Z activity in S.A. and Austin.

Tarting up the ride a bit in prep for ZCON???

If you do end up needing a new one, you can get it here: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423653 He pretty much charges a flat rate shipping for one or more products so shop his site to see if there are additional items you need and order all at once. If you get a new one the trick to installing it is to gently remove the pins from the plug, pull the wiring back thru the old grommet, reverse the process for the new one. Easy peasy, been there - done that. If the plastic covering on the wiring is brittle or cracked, this would be a good time to get some new shrinkwrap tubing and install it before the plug goes back on.

The FSM shows the R blower harness power connected to a L (blue) wire - looks like you are on track there. And it looks like a blue wire is also power for the radio.

The FSM says the map light RL wire connects to a R wire that is common to all the gauges - you should have an open female connector nearby. The black wire should be a nearby ground. At least you figured out the male plug red wire on the blower harness is for power - could have been exciting! Do you have the FSM and '71 Supplement downloaded for reference?