beermanpete

The slave cylinder looks over extended. Zed's comment aboout the throwout bearing collar is on the mark. Also, the condition of the release arm and pivot ball should be inspected. You are likely going to need to remove the transmission to fix this. There are several length collars and matching presusre plate heights. If the wron combination is used the clutch won't work right.

I'm with the Captain on this, it sounds like a shift mechanism problem, not a clutch problem. How does the shift lever move when the engine is off? As a test, how ever you can, select reverse and then turn off the engine. Without letting the car roll, move the gear selector from reverse to neutral and back. If takes the same forced as when the engine is running then the clutch is not the problem. As for possible causes, there is a reverse lock-out detent that may be partially seized. While it is technically lubricated by the gear oil it is very high up and not force oiled. It may need to be removed for servicing. Anoth thought, a bent shift rod. Since this is a 4-speed reverse does not share its linkage with 5th. It can get damged without affecting the forward gears. Less likely, the reverse idler shaft may be damaged causing high friction and making it difficult to move.

I second Blue's comment. The gauge is likely the propblem. Especially If the other gauges are working.

The brass colored parts are for the rubber isolator in the steering shaft.

That depends on how you approach the cleaning and painting operation. If you are going to clean and paint in place, I see no need to replace the seal. If you are going to take it all apart to clean and paint you might as well replace the seal while you have it apart.

This is my take on it as well. Not a big deal. If the bushing itself is bad there will be discernable play in the joint between the upright and the control arm.

It sounds like you simply need a new clutch. If the collar was too long you would not be able to move the release arm by hand because there would always be pressure on it from the pressure palte and the slave would be bottomed out.

I have seen this on other cars as well. I don't think it is a problem or defect. If it bothers you raise the idle a bit. Increasing the bootstrap current might help. You could try a higher wattage lamp for the charge light. The resistor is likely to ensure the alternator works if the lamp burns out.

I use a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.0L in-line six. MPG is about 14 while towing. The trailer weighs about 2200 lbs, the Z is about 2300 lbs, total therefore is about 4500 lbs.

As a diagnostic procedure; when the brakes are stuck, open the bleeders on each caliper and see if any fluid squirts out. If so, and then the car will roll easily, the pressure is being held in the lines. If not, then the calipers are stuck for some reason.

The exact position of the adjustment does not really matter. You will need to change the setting each time you tune up the car. However, if you want to know the current position for use as a baseline you don't need to take the domes off, or anything else for that matter. Simply turn them in carefully and count the turns as you go. As already stated, the car is working - don't mess with it! Go drive it and enjoy it for a change.

The motorcycle engine does not use a gasket becasue it will affect the bearing clearance and is not predictable enough to include in such a critical location. The Nissan service manual shows a gasket, so it should have one. Leaving it out probably won't cause any problem but if the fit-up is not very good the oil leak could degrade the tensioner performacne somewhat. I would make a gasket myself from a sheet of gasket paper as suggested by DJ. If you don't use a gasket at least make sure there are no burrs or gouges on the mating surfaces.

Yes, add the washers. Most carbs I have worked on have a washer at the carb end of the spring.

It sounds like the EGR port. We plugged the EGR port on our 73 using a pipe plug. I don't recall the exact size but it is close enough to the correct size to tap for a 1/2" or 3/4" pipe plug without drilling larger first. If you cannot remove the existing fitting drill it out and tap for a pipe plug. See photo below. The later manifolds use a differnt fitting and it is not quite so convenient. Fortunately, our later manifold was in good condition so I made solid plug to replace the pipe and ferrule. I used the original nut to hold the plug in. Sorry I don't have a photo of that.

Removing one set of points should be fine as only on set is used at a time. You need to remove the "retarded" points and retain the normal points. Also, there is a temperature sensor and perhaps some other control circuitry that selects which points to use. You might as well remove that stuff as well.

Brad Penn oil has zinc.

Clutch chatter? Does only occur while pulling away from a stop?

Scary! I am glad you were not hurt and made it out of the car quickly. Too bad about your car.

We have SUs on a 280 head that have the notches for the injectors and it works fine.

Yes, replacing the rings requires removing the head. Do you have the necessary tools to properly replace the rings and do all the other work that comes along with that? If not, just run it and see what happens. It seems you have already verified the engine turns and does not have a broken rod or other serious malady. The worst outcome is the realization it is a bit tired. May people on this forum and others, me included, have bought used engines with little to no knowledge about the condition or history and ended up with a good engine.

Turning the engine by hand will not tell you much about ring seal. The air leaks past the rings too fast to get a usefull pressure reading at that speed. A leakdown test is better but if the piston goes to the bottom it can be misleading since the bore is not worn much at the bottom. You might be just as well off to install the engine and run it. It seems the question is: Would you rather install a tired motor only to take it out again or tear down a good one only to find out it is ok?

There is another adjusting screw on teh bottom of the distributor. If the second adjuster still has some travel that might be enough to get the timing set. As Zed has ask, please let us know about how you determined TDC and what the status of the original timing marks are. If the timing marks are not correct you could have a bad damper or perhaps a mixture of parts from multiple year cars/

Our solution was to braze in steel plugs to fill the holes. The EGR port has been tapped for a pipe plug.

Cool. I am glad you got it working correctly. It is refreshing to hear your story about such good customer service.

For the moment you cannot do anything about the TO bearing collar. Meaure the pedal free play to make sure it is correct. The factory service manual has a procedure for this. Follow it precisely and completely. IF you don't have the manual you can get it here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html