GunnerRob

I have a question for you guys/gals that are using a shop vac with the blast cabinet. What do you do with the contents in the vac after using it with the blast cabinet? Can you reuse the media? TIA

My prayers are with the mom, Bill. Build her a Z car. They don't roll over (I'm assuming that's what happened) like minivans do.

Ya, there ya go...that's the ticket! Quick mind there e.

Perhaps you could have a placard made that would be large enough to cover the holes. I would try talking to someone at a trophy shop to see if they have something that would endure the elements and is the size you need, and could engrave something like "JAPJAG" or whatever you'd like into it. It could be attached with the same double sided tape as body shops use.

I see one problem with your new gauges. As shown in the first picture, they sent you a 710 gauge by mistake!

I would say the prices look pretty good. I'd probably want to see at least the covers, and read a description of their condition though, before a sent my money in.

Why? Are there LHD and RHD blowers?

Maybe she saw your avatar and thought you were a lawyer!

I parked the front tire of my Z about 9" from a parking lot bumper that I was sure was anchored to the pavement (by way of rebar through the bumper into the pavement). The parking bumper had a wide bevel ( like this / ) on the face of it. Then I placed my floor jack, with the base against the bevel, between the parking lot bumper and the front tire. Make sure you place a wide, thick piece of lumber, like a piece of 2 x 6, between the tire and jack, and raise the jack until you have enough of the T/C threaded end through the hole to get the washer and nut on. Do this on both sides making sure both nuts are threaded on the T/C rod the same distance. That'll get you close enough on the alignment to take the car to a shop for a final alignment. BTW, before you start jacking the floor jack, make sure you have the parking brake on and the rear wheels are chocked so the car won't move backwards. I was able to do this by myself and it only took about 10 minutes to do one side.

A man and his wife were having an argument about who should brew the coffee each morning. The wife said, "You should do it, because you get up first, and then we don't have to wait as long to get our coffee." The husband said, " You are in charge of cooking around here and you should do it, because that is your job, and I can just wait for my coffee." Wife replies, "No, you should do it, and besides, it is in the Bible that the man should do the coffee." Husband replies, "I can't believe that, show me." So she fetched the Bible, and opened the New Testament and showed him at the top of several pages, that it indeed says.......... "HEBREWS"

Congradulations! Those rust spots on the cowl are probably coming up from below. The factory placed foam pads on the underside of the cowl for support. Unfortunately, they hold moisture that causes rust. The best thing to do is to remove the cowl, cut out the rusty areas, and weld in new steel. Bondo ain't gonna cut it! Oh, and don't forget to paint it! One other thing you might consider doing is to attach metal screen to the underside of the cowl vent slots. That will keep debris from falling down and into the space between the fender bottom and the inner body. That debris (leaves, twigs, etc.) gets stuck down there, holds moisture, and causes rust from the inside out. You might even consider pulling the fenders to see if rust has already started. MSA (Motorsport Auto) has the seat replacement kits that you can install yourself, if you care to do that. I haven't done that yet, but from what I've read, it's basically a process of removing the old cover, and pulling on the new. When you say a track car, do you mean like a daily driver/weekend warrior? Whatever you do I'm sure it'll be a blast! Enjoy!! BTW, if you want to get a better response to calls for help I'd suggest that you go back to your "User CP", then to "Edit Profile" and put in where you live. That way members can direct you toward regional rescources if you need them.

Good link Carl! I definately bookmarked that one! :cheeky:

An L5 just ain't natural. Maybe a person could lay it over on it's side!

I think the guy's problem stems from the way he was raised or influenced while growing up. It's obvious his parent(s) and/or peers wrongly taught him that he is entitled to everything he wants, and the results are the spoiled, self-rightious, intolerant moron that he has become. I say he should be dropped down into a battle zone to "experience" the truth about war, soldiers, and valor. If he makes it out alive, maybe he'd come back a little more "sensitive" and "aware" of his place in this world.

Nah, while driving around a blind curve at about 50 mph, I killed a duck that hit my car just above my windshield. :knockedou

We sort of have a parallel universe going on here. I started this thread, but nobody noticed it. Inadvertently, another thread on this subject arose later. Here's the thread with pics: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17764&page=1&pp=5

Here's scans of the ad.

Hummm...didn't I see something about that recently? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17717

Hi Vicky. The rear deck on my '78 280Z was actually a full length and width, elevated fiberboard configuration that was completely flat and was about 6" above the steel deck below it. It reached from the top of the bulkhead behind the seats to the rear panel that covered the taillights and had a section over the spare tire that was hinged on the front and was raised up to access the spare and tools underneath from the back of the car through the open hatch. My '75 280Z's rear deck is flat as well, but except for the round, fiberboard, spare tire cover, is all steel. It is covered only by the carpet and has two "trap door" storage bins below the steel deck located on either side of the driveshaft tunnel directly behind the bulkhead. These storage bins are accessed by lifting the carpet to get to the trap doors and is where the tools are stored. I was told the reason for the change to the elevated deck was to make room for the space saving tire (which actually took away interior space)! :stupid:

No...I don't think that'll work. THOSE spacers have the bolts facing the INSIDE.

Now THERE'S a good excuse to heat your garage! :classic:

According to the site below, geckos look like a good choice for controlling your spider problem. The site also recommends birds or scorpions, but I'd pass on them (one is hard on the cars paint, the other on peoples nervous system ). Here's the link. http://www.xs4all.nl/~ednieuw/Spiders/InfoNed/enemies.html

My we have a timid bunch here! :surprised

Victor, When you had your plates done, did you check with DMV? Did you have to get new tags (stickers) for the new plates? I'm kind of curious about this because my plate's looking kinda shabby, but if it's too much of a hassle I'll just get new ones from DMV. Thanks