Gary in NJ

The recommended range is 28-32psi. I like the higher value because the steering is noticeably lighter at parking-lot speeds and more "nimble" at higher speeds.

Of course I should point out that "they would give a better ride" refers to tires of the same brand and model. Side walls vary from different manufacturers. But as a general rule of thumb, a 70 series tire will be more "compliant" then a 60 series. Also 7mm may seem insignificant, but it's actually double that figure (think of it as 7mm above the rim and 7mm below the rim). 14mm in total is about 9/16 of an inch in overall height, or 18 feet of rolling distance resulting in a speedo error of 2.2%. Yes, I AM a tire nerd.

195/70-14 is the stock size. I would choose that size over the 185/70's. They would give a better ride and the spedo would be more accurate.

Not a big fan of body kits, but I am a big fan of 65 GTO's. I like that FrankenDatsun.

I think I saw this car on Craigslist. Good luck and welcome to Z club.

Despite being in rough condition, it looks like it might be a very good candidate for some type of restoration. I look forward to seeing what Dad-the-Bodyman does to this car.

To confirm the condition of the battery and charging system you'll need to get a volt meter on the battery and check its static state (12.5VDC +/- .3) and the current to the battery when the car is running (14VDC +/- .3). It sounds like you may have several issues going with your car. Attack one at a time. You mentioned that you ordered a "tune-up" kit, but it sounds like you'll need to address the setting on the carbs as well. You'll need a Unisync for that job. I assume you have a timing strobe light for the tune-up itself.

Pumping the throttle while cranking does little with the CV carbs. Is all of this poor running only happening while the choke is engaged, or is it all of the time? Have you taken a look at the nozzles to confirm that they are moving when the choke is engaged and disengaged? With the choke disengaged, can you move the nozzles further in the "up" direction? You're gonna have to dig a into the carbs to come-up with some more details. The popping you hear is most likely back-firing through the rear carb.

The part number looks like 16061-E4310. Courtesy Nissan has 'em in stock for $14.69 each. EDIT: This was the first time that I successfully used the on-line microfiche (http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?1:b:1). It took a lot of hunting and pecking to find the part number, but it was there.

Some other suggestions: - Go to a car wash where they have the clean-it-yourself bays. Otherwise you'll be making a giant mess in your driveway. - The wands at the car wash are much more powerful then a garden hose so keep the wand a good 2 feet from the engine. - Wash the car when you are done because the dirt/oil/gunk will fly all over.

That is the method I use on my dirtbikes. It just isn't practical in a car. First and foremost, unlike a dirtbike, we typically don't drive our cars at WOT. We throttle them and therefore we need to set the air:fuel mixture in the range that we normally operate. Also, on a single cylinder dirtbike that revs at 10,000 to 15,000 rpm, one minute of operating gets you a lot of combustion cycles from which to read. The method of spark reading I provided above will give you a fair representation based on your typical driving style.

Glenn, If (and only if) your car is a '72, the heights are 16mm for the front and and 12mm for the rear. All others are 14mm. You don't need special tools. You'll find that a 12mm wrench has a 12mm handle.

I'm married 25 years. You'll get use to, or at least learn to ignore that look.

You forget the 3rd most important element - the holy grail 3) Unlimited Funds

Dry with a tan to mocha coloration on the insulator. Look for even wear on the electrode. Old plugs don't tell a true story. Put fresh plugs in the engine and drive 25-50 miles. Review them every so often for to see if and how they change (say 200 miles and 500 miles) but beyond 500 to 1,000 miles they become a archeological dig.

I bet you could easily find a used seat. Many people replace the original seats and they are very willing to unload their OEM seat(s). Check over at hybridz.com where that mod is very popular.

If everyone who used ZTherapy chimed in on this thread, this thread would be the second longest in the forums. Let's face it, the Boob thread is epic.

Oh come on. Someone must be able to bust out for an afternoon. The weather looks good for Sunday too.

Do we have active members in Oregon?

Since the passenger seat doesn't move as far rearward as the drivers seat I would venture to guess that the larger of the two belongs behind the passenger seat. The covers do not provide a perfect fit, so gaps on the side is not unusual.

I see that the Z Car Club is having a get together this Sunday (November 7th) at the Green Knoll Grill near the Bridgewater Mall at noon. This is probably one of the last weekends to show our Z's before they are put away for the winter. Anybody want to meet-up this Sunday?

I saw that one on CL last night. What do you know about it?

My guess is a home made tool that was accidentally left in place. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose.

Yes. You can see from my signature photo that the 225/50-15's fill-out my wheel wells quite nicely. However, the 260Z's sit higher then the 240Z's. As a result the 15's look a bit lost on a 260Z. Whether -16's will make contact or not on a 260 I can't tell you. I can tell you that the-15's do not make contact on a 240Z.

I stand corrected. Tirerack still has the Yokohama AVS ES100 in stock (I believe those have been discontinued) and they show a new tire by BFGoodrich in a 225/50-15 called the g-Force Sport. They also show tires by Sumitomo and Kumho in 225/50-15, but I don't have any experience with those manufacturers. Even so I'd still install 16's. I'm just glad to see that I don't have to buy another set of Panasports the next time I need tires