Mike

We also have a ton of links in our database. Look at the Links tab. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a good way of telling you what you will find by visiting the link. Unless, of course, the person submitting the link wrote a good description. http://www.classiczcars.com/modules.php?s=&op=modload&name=Web_Links&file=index

Dumb jokes are great! So, hey... What did the bartender ask the horse that just walked in ?

Sandblasting with a siphon feeder and a small volume (inexpensive) air compressor will not usually warp the metal. I sandblasted my entire car. If I was to do it again, I would have done the following: 1) Move everything else out of the garage. Putting up plastic can protect other parts of the garage, but, sand WILL get everywhere. I can guarantee that part. 2) Use a sandblaster that pressurizes a can (this type can warp metal) instead of the siphon feeder. The siphon feed type can take a LONG time. The pressurized can type will make this job go a lot quicker. I ended up purchasing 3 siphon fed systems by the time I was done. 3) Use a sand that does not cause cancer in lab rats. Mine was a silica based sand and has the potential of giving me cancer. Ugh. The things you do when you're younger. 4) Buy a sand-blasting hood from the beginning. I don't care if you think you're gonna take a shower after every session, the sand will still be in your hair, ears, and other places. Buy the hood made from the lightweight white material and if you can afford the suit.... do that too. You'll avoid having sand all over your house. 5) Never plan to drive your car in the rain. If there is sand in the holes and things, they say that water can get in and cause more rust. Hell, don't even let water get near this baby. You spent a long time blasting her to hell.... you don't want to have it ruined by rain!! Anyway, just some tips.

Actually, I don't think it's a good idea to go back and edit posts unless they are extremely bad. It's better to leave it alone and post a reply. Thanks for the explainations guys... It's tough being the site-moderator sometimes. -- Mikey

Earplugs.

Guys, I really don't want to start cracking bones again. I've done it in the past and it really sucks. Can I trust that we will stay away from personal slander and continue discuss issues on a professional level? As a rule of thumb, if you are suffering from emotional discomfort while typing your message.... WALK AWAY. Come back to the post at a later date. I have a few members that I've 'restricted' due to topics like this in the past. They immediately took notice when this post came up. Here's my rule. Do not torment each other with slander. Keep all posts Z-related. Thanks. -- MIke

Make sure you mark all the cars you've owned. You can vote multiple times.

That's why I think it's ok to allow the discussions. There really isn't much for 240k out there and a few of you guys recommended it awhile back. So, here it is... Besides, I have a special place in my heart for Aussies and Kiwi's... Must have been all that time I spent down there. It affected my brain.

Hey guys... you can discuss the 240k in here. A single forum just for you.

You guys can choose multiple selections.... If you own(ed) two cars, a 240z and a 280z, then select them both. Isn't a fairlady a 240z ?

Hiya, I recommend getting some kind of EFI schematic. I think I might have one laying around here in digital form. The FI system on these cars is quite complex and has various safety devices that keep it from spurting fuel... I debugged a '75 280z EFI system and found some useful information.... Start at your fuel pump. If that's running, work your way to the front of the car. The fuel pump should start to pump when you turn the key on...... You'll need a helper. -- Mike

Just wondering what are members are either driving today, restoring, working-on, or have owned in the past......

If you guys are taking pictures with a digital camera... I have a hint for you. Open your manual or look at your camera to see if you have a "macro" mode... This will let you get close to the model and take the picture. Normal mode is typically 3+ feet from your target. Macro mode will allow you to get closer and the camera will focus better. Most cameras identify macro mode with a little flower.

It's a realistic model, just look at the rust in the doors!!

I found a pretty awesome model. It's a modified die-cast 240z made to look like it's a junker... Pretty sweet. These are created one-by-one by individual artists... I couldn't pass it up.

Gary, what about the one from 'Precision Replacement Parts' ? It usually comes in a kit form... but, you can buy them separately. Give the guys at Z-Therapy a call.

Congrats on the car Evo1.... Hope you enjoy it... don't forget to come back when you have questions about it.

Let us know what you think of the set.... I'd be interested.

Do you have more details about this car? A digital photo is also good to show people what you are selling.

Nice..... tell us how you like the car!! I'd love to see some picts in here too.

Thanks Michael.

Yes, your assumptions are correct. The vinyl is folded over where they match. And, the vinyl has a small amount of foam padding between it and the metal above and on the sides of the window. The vinyl is glued and wrapped around the metal edges in that area. You might want to browse through the galleries to see if you can find some pictures in there. However, that might take all day. Perhaps someone from the site could take a few picts for you ? -- Mike

I've always purchased a glass scraper for that job. Be careful not to score the aluminum too deeply.

Why do they call it a Building when it's already Built ? When insects are Bugging us, is that why we call them Bugs ? Was the insect Fly named after Flying or was it the other way around? Yea, I forgot about your original thread Keith!