Ptero

Right on Sean! Glad to hear you've had time to work on the car. We miss your beautiful car up north

Thanks for the replies! I'll look into these options.

I'm trying to replace all many bushings with rubber due to how our roads are up here; however, the parts below are no longer available through Nissan. Am I now forced to use urethane for these or is there a 3rd party that makes these? I can't imagine the Urethane steering coupler makes much of a difference but the other 2 I'm wondering about. Rack Bushing Drivers Side (54445-E4101) Rack Bushing Passengers Side (54444-E4101) Steering Column Coupler (48073-78500)

I hadn't seen the steering knuckle o-ring until today when I ripped it off by accident. So good idea on replacing it! Master cylinder is on a future list when I start getting into the engine bay a bit more.

Struts & springs /w poly bump stops are new from last year. Here is the list so far. I'm thinking of doing the wheel bearings as well but haven't quite decided. Am I missing anything which could be added? (bushings will be rubber as our streets are pretty rough up here) Hawk HPS brake pads Earl's SS brake lines Brake rotors Caliper rebuild kit Tension Rod kit from MSA Front Tension Rod Bushing (2) Front Control Arm Bushing (2) Front Sway Bar End Link Bushing (8) Front Sway Bar to Frame Bushing (2) Rack Bushing Drivers Side (1) Rack Bushing Passengers Side (1) Steering Column Coupler (1) Sway bar end links Strut bearings Tie rod end Ball joints

The saying, "If it ain't broken, don't fix it" has been on my mind lately. You pull apart one thing to fix/replace and see 3 other things that could be replaced as you're already this far in dismantling things. Those other 3 things may not even NEED to be replaced yet but it's going to be so much work in the future when you do need to do them so you might as well do it now. I can't be the only one feeling this with our old cars. How do you guys deal with this? Ignore things until they need to be done? One thing at a time? All or nothing? Wait for available funds?

I removed and cleaned up the turn signal switch and checked all connections on the combo switch for continuity. I'm unsure why but now the drivers side turn signal is working again. I'll be doing some more diagnosing tonight.

Car: '73 240z Front turn signals work but the rears don't and the hazards work on all 4 corners. I've tested the switch and it appears to be functioning fine. I tested the bulb socket and they're getting no power when turn signals are activated. I replaced a flasher from the drivers side foot area. Also, some say the flasher is on the drivers side by your feet and other say it's under the dash. Are there multiple flashers for the turn signals? I know the turn signals go through the hazard switch but how do I remove the hazard switch to test for continuity? Does the dash need to be off? Any guidance would be appreciated.

I installed new weatherstripping in the windows for the doors. (there was none in there) Installed new rear interior panels as a previous owner cut out the speaker grills leaving a large hole. Fixed ebrake. Replaced starter. Removed front valance in preparation for installing a new air dam. Removed steering wheel and test fit the original steering wheel to see how I like it. Still can't decide what I'll use

Booooo, pictures are blocked at work

Congratulations on the new car! On a side note, I love your country. I've been there several times and it's a beautiful place.

Criminal Minds (2005) - Episode: Extreme Agressor Several scenes with a 240z driving around. Not sure if this was mentioned through this thread.

Drain the tank using the plug as you'll be able to see if there is any rust sitting at the bottom. You probably wouldn't be able to tell if you siphoned the tank. It's not too difficult to put the tank back in and you can do it yourself with a jack to hold it up. It's pretty light when it's empty. You would be best off to remove the tank in order to clean it properly. For step 11, center plug on the distributor leads to the coil. You could just disconnect the center plug from the distributor.

I love 510 wagons. Such a cool looking car.

That's pretty neat to have an indoor shoot like that. One small critique, why are the pictures blurry? Just an issue with rescaling it?

Subaru Impreza for my winter car.

I got that book today too Looking forward to reading it.

A friend of mine took some photos of my car a few weeks back and he did such an amazing job that I wanted to share some of his work. http://www.tristanfast.ca

I think MSA has replacement text for the heater controls.

Tried with plugs out and yes, engine is still in the donor car.

I've got an l28et engine that has been sitting for an undetermined amount of time and in unknown condition. I poured some automatic tranny fluid into the cylinders to try and loosen things up and then put a bit more in a few days later. Today I tried cranking it by hand and I've run into a problem. Using a breaker bar I can get the crank bolt to move but it's pretty tough and the pulley doesn't move. I removed the bolt and it looked fine with no metal shavings on the thread (was looking to see if I was stripping the threads). The car is an automatic so I can't rock it back and forth to try and break it loose. I'm at a point where I could continue with the breaker bar and have one of 2 results. Either it cranks or I strip the threads. Do I have any other options (other than trying to start it with the ignition)? Or am I at the point where I need to tear it down?

All bushings are original. It's one of my projects this winter to replace them. Are there specific fasteners you are referring to?

I'll have to check on this one. Yes, tires are different sizes. Fronts are 215/65/14 Rears are 205/75/14

I replaced all shocks & springs earlier this summer and got an alignment afterwards. This is the first year I drove the car so I'm not sure if it felt like this prior to the suspension change.