Zed Head

Just remove it and see if the system can cool things down. The engine should never get up to operating temperature without a thermostat. If it can't keep things cool then it won't matter what thermostat you have in there. p.s. the thermostat is actually a heating device. It blocks coolant flow until the coolant reaches desired temperature.

The Pertronix II is current-limiting. Maximum spark energy. The ballast resistor takes it back down close to Pertronix I level. Probably between I and II. Just saying. Let it ride as-is and if you ever get the tach out think about trying the modification. Can't blame you for not being eager to take the tach out. It's a PITA. If it was mine I'd probably reach up under the dash and just pull that wire a little farther away and see what happens. I think that the point of the adjustment is to reduce the magnetic field. Might be enough to just bend the wire.

Who is this Guild person? I've seen comments but it seems to be a "secret" among the investors and collectors.

Chocolate Thunder never got another bid. "TheBo" bumped it $5,000 in one shot and nobody followed. Interesting. They've bought other cars. https://bringatrailer.com/member/thebo/

Interesting question. The 76 wiring diagram shows it as close to the license plate light. Rear of the car somewhere. Many other things branched in to it. I have a vague memory of something behind the plastic panel that covers the rear inside of the car, over the tail lights. I'll bet it's there somewhere. Easy to check, a few Phillips head screws. Nice and dry there, a good place for a ground connection. But if you think you have a bad fuel pump ground you might check the connector by the tank first. If everything else works.

There is money to be made by scavenging the wrecking yards. The internet makes it much more lucrative. Check out the shipping costs on this $40 salvage yard part. Beware people. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313905951776?epid=1511143434&hash=item491640b420:g:w4UAAOSw-bViJ5nr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIVkFbZ3wVGp1MxOKS6Z71D9jCaEvSir%2BiSDc4LL4WWY1rli7uv74aApxylaYMJh%2Fe4B3Jz30tEXYOyTwStR51jiubN9KdCPvcrED7pDNOfWnxdRztDnN7qaPptD86st9nBp7TAXpmjA0%2FnBaOq9U7LKzBZaBKidur0I7uqElTQGLkmwRGSLtA62AACP8waMi0Lxae%2F56bx76ZwwWoSWOSk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7C82s2MYQ

Good point. From a guy who probably does the same. 😀 I forgot about the removed wheels part, haven't been in a yard for a while. You're right, people do move that fast, wouldn't be a surprise.

The Sherwood car is on wheels. How could that be?! Has to have struts under there... Pretty sure PnP would just drag a strutless car to their yard if they had to. Those red springs might be Tokicos. NLA. Are those sprocket looking things spacers?

I remember walking through the yard when only half of the cars could be reached if you wanted to stay dry. But the flooded rows were still open. I don't know how they get away with it with the environmental issues, some of the cars end up under water. Maybe it's the old dilution-solution principle. Good luck. I think that they post on their location page if they're closed. https://www.picknpull.com/locations/119/sherwood-or

I'd check it out if I was still down there. Struts, brake drums, hubs, maybe even a diff and half shafts, who knows. It's a neat yard, next to a wildlife refuge. I saw a bald eagle chasing a duck one day. Pretty sure the duck made it to water and survived but that eagle was right on its tail.

Pretty funny. Fat fingers... "We have canceled a bid on the following BaT Auctions listing: 1970 Datsun 240Z. Canceled Bid Amount: $240,000 We apologize for the inconvenience. Up-to-date information can be found in the comments section of the auction, which you can find here. You are receiving this message because you are watching or bidding on this listing. To unsubscribe from bid notifications for this listing, click here. The Bring a Trailer Team" https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-87/

The stainless lines sometimes don't seal well. The steel is very hard. Better make sure it fits well. Check the sealing surface for cracks, sometimes the flaring process can overstress the metal. Good luck bending it. I used wood screws on a piece of wood to create a forming curve so that I didn't crease the tube (typical tube metal though, not stainless). Some people fill them with sand before bending.

Nice paint and very clean. It's not a restoration. The "pre-muffler" is left off also. It's gonna drone. Pick, pick, pick...

This 71 went for less. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-245/

Interesting resto'ed 73. Big number already. I think it's the paint. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-210/

How about crimping? A crimp will still offer better contact than the spring pressure of the fuse holder metal. All you need is contact area for heat transfer.

Tried to sign in just now and got a timeout. But when I opened another tab I was signed in. Captured the spinning wheel and the eventual timeout message.

That's a GM HEI module. If it hasn't been damaged from poor connections it should work with the 76 distributor. The red wire from the pickup coil connects to W and the green wire connects to G. B connects to switched battery, and C connects to coil negative. Of course the coil positive needs switched battery too, typically they're both connected to B on the HEI module. The final connection is the ground through the mounting grommets. Those are most important, that's where all of the coil current goes. There are several instructions in the download area about it.

The idea is out there. Here's a variation. Bulky but it might offer some ideas. Seems like you might have better luck converting the positions in the fuse box than converting the individual fuses. The holders in the fuse box are the springy part. https://www.grainger.com/product/6AYJ0?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiA9qKbBhAzEiwAS4yeDQqc4F5Bya6JJlINW2P3G8rLEGyJOnfxtQIBQnXVY2zk-TjujkuiohoC4iIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Present! I've noticed that a few other forums I frequent are low on activity. Maybe we're all preoccupied with the possibility of the end of things as we've known them. I am.

It might be. But that's why separating things will help. Thousands of people, across many brands beside Datsun, have converted their points to the Pertronix system with no problems. Your problem wouldn't be a general points versus electronic issue. DutchZ is just being philosophical.

That's what happens when a leak is left too long. The seal rubber wears away and the tension spring ends up metal to metal on the sealing surface. Pretty common on propeller shafts too. The repair sleeves are pretty thin. They seem to work. Really though, I'm not sure the rubber lip on a good new seal will ride in the groove left by the tension spring. Might be worth a measurement.

Any chance you could start a new thread, of your own? Eastcoast has a tachometer problem. You're tossing a whole new thing in to the middle of his thread.

Near the end of the Crane XR700 / XR3000 instructions there is a section on modifying Smiths type tachs, which is what you have. Looks like they're reducing the power/size of the magnetic field by removing a loop of the sensing wire. Here's a link to the downloads area, might be worth reading. Page 16.