Zed Head

I want to see the companion flange with the rubber damper that comes with the kit. Humble posted a kit number but it seems to be for the earlier 240Z R180 kit, not the 1975 kit. 99991-20000

I think that I loosened the bolts to the other part of the mount, the bracket that actually bolts to the engine block. When I replaced the mounts with the engine in, and later when I replaced the engine. Leave them all loose, wiggle everything in to place, get them aligned, tighten them all back up. It was some extra nut and bolt turning, but it worked out well. That was with aftermarket mounts. Which did not need any filing or pin modification. OReilly purchase, very poor quality. 1976 car.

Just jumping in to point out that you're still not "quite right" in your level of descriptiveness. Kidding. But "doesn't really charge" doesn't really mean much. There are some basic measurements that will tell a story. The need to "rev up" is typical of a missing circuit.

Humble wrote about a half-page on it with lots of detail but never gave any Bulletin numbers. Haven't found any documents. Apparently it was an actual recall with repair kits distributed to the dealers, and stickers to place under the hood when done. My 76 had the old hose routing and no sticker.

A "short" will blow a fuse or fusible link or melt some wire insulation. If you didn't find any of that then you have an open circuit. Helps the thought process. I think that one fuse covers the lights you mentioned. You might dig deeper in to the fusebox and that fuse. The older Z's tend to melt fuse boxes and wiring around a few certain fuses. Search SteveJ's name and get on to his "Fiddlin with Z cars" site. I think he has some good info about it.

It could be your starter fluid access port.

I see, clear now. You might try cleaning up the corners and torquing them in damaged just to see. 33-40 ft-lbs is the number which really isn't huge. They might be fine except for the ugliness.

Here's an entertaining one from old Big Phil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gnn84tyeWSc

I think that madkaw has gleaned your objective. You're trying to replace the hydraulic (oil) pivots with solid. Therefore, working with a P90 head. I thought you had a P79. Regardless, the common method involves timesert thread replacements. "timesert p90 hydraulic pivot" should pull somersetting up. Or lifter in place of pivot. There's a proven method.

Aaahhh...you fell in to the "lifter" trap. People have been mis-identifying the hydraulic pivots as lifters because they come from pushrod valve train world, where the common US-designed engine has hydraulic lifters. They're not lifters. I wouldn't use the words lifter or tappet at all when talking about these engines. Nissan calls it a pivot, and the adjustable ones they call "oil pivots": They don't move, therefore not lifters, Not lifting.

Actually, this one shows it as a rocker pivot too - http://www.partsfornissans.com/nissan/maxima/1323421000/1984-year/gl-trim/2-4l-l6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat I wrote a whole thing then realized I don't know what you mean by "tappet". It's not a word generally used with the L engines. You can pick a number from the diagram in that link.

Rockauto shows a cross-reference, for a different brand, for 1984 Maxima, which appears to where that part number comes from. Probably superceded the early numbers. Click on the part number and it will bring up all of the applications. http://www.partsfornissans.com/nissan/maxima/1323421000/1984-year/gl-trim/2-4l-l6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1984,maxima,2.4l+l6,1211241,engine,rocker+arm,5656

I was going to mention the safety factor also. So many other families are buying giant SUV's and trucks so that they will be the survivors of the accident. The Z started as a sports car, light weight and meant to move. I don't even know why they came up with a 2+2 (no offense to the 2+2 people and their memories). Aside from just accident survivabilty, there's the distraction factor. You don't want to be distracted in a Z, awareness is your best defense. I would not want to get T-boned in a Z by a giant Ford Diesel F850 or whatever number they're up to now.

Cracked head, corroded/cracked front cover, condensation. How much water? How long have you had the engine?

There was a TSB issued about the hose rerouting in 1977. Apparently it was a "fix it if people complain" type of TSB, if people came in with a sticking throttle. It's shown in Humble's Restore book.

The local news stations have really been beating on them. Interviewing people who had bad service. They're taking some serious heat.

Wolf Creek Racing. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

There's not much room in the back of a 2+2. You might take your family out and fit them in the back for a test drive. Plus, an old Z will probably have some smells. The kids and wife will be complaining. John Coffey was working on something like a desert rally car, I believe, but I don't think they lower off-road cars. They raise them.

The basic idea is that when you torque the bolts down the rubber of the bushing is clamped in to place. It flexes rotationally forward and backward, internally in the meat of the bushing material, as the suspension moves, but the outer and inner surfaces stay locked in place. So there's no sequence, it's just a matter of getting the outer and inner surfaces located at the normal ride height of the car. Basically, you leave the bolts loose, set the car down, roll it back and forth to get the wheels to spread to their normal position, rock it up and down a few times, then lay on your back and reach underneath to torque the bolts. Or drive it up on ramps so you can get under it. If you're using polyurethane bushings, none of this matters because they rotate inside the mounts. They need grease to stop squeaking.

I couldn't say, my opinion has no backing, I've gone cheap. I think that I have an OReilly MC in my car and it has worked fine, but have been burned on a reman slave cylinder. It was dirty inside and failed within about 8 months. Considering the difficulty of replacement I might go with one of the better known brands. I don't know who's out there these days though.

If I recall correctly, the axle will put a dent in the cap on the hub side and wear on it if it's too long. Hope it works. Good luck. You know the big bolts are missing from your control arms, right? Next year? It's only August.

These guys are well-known and established around here. Looks like they're milking their reputation. Beware. http://www.oregonlive.com/window-shop/index.ssf/2016/08/leifs_auto_complaints.html#incart_2box

There are actually two seals in the master cylinders - one to push the fluid and another to keep the fluid in the bore after the pusher seal passes the reservoir port. Sounds like your pushing seal doesn't have tight contact with the bore and is shrinking/relaxing to smaller diameter in the bore when there's no activity to create back pressure. I bet a new seal or new MC would fix the problem. I think that there's a variety of seals and cylinders out there though and the remans might use a bigger seal. Best bet might just be a new MC.

Does he say this every time? - " I am a Z collector and will be offering some of my more rare and sought after cars for sale in the coming weeks... " He has a 78 280Z and a Roadster fro sale also - http://www.ebay.com/sch/harmony01/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

When you say "lose prime" do you mean that the pedal is up but when you press it ti goes to the floor without actuating the clutch cylinder? Or do you mean the pedal has dropped to the floor and has to be lifted up and pressed a few times before it stays up? Is any fluid lost or does the fluid level stay the same, even though the "prime" is gone? Don't know what "prime" means.