Zed Head

It could be your starter fluid access port.

I see, clear now. You might try cleaning up the corners and torquing them in damaged just to see. 33-40 ft-lbs is the number which really isn't huge. They might be fine except for the ugliness.

Here's an entertaining one from old Big Phil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gnn84tyeWSc

I think that madkaw has gleaned your objective. You're trying to replace the hydraulic (oil) pivots with solid. Therefore, working with a P90 head. I thought you had a P79. Regardless, the common method involves timesert thread replacements. "timesert p90 hydraulic pivot" should pull somersetting up. Or lifter in place of pivot. There's a proven method.

Aaahhh...you fell in to the "lifter" trap. People have been mis-identifying the hydraulic pivots as lifters because they come from pushrod valve train world, where the common US-designed engine has hydraulic lifters. They're not lifters. I wouldn't use the words lifter or tappet at all when talking about these engines. Nissan calls it a pivot, and the adjustable ones they call "oil pivots": They don't move, therefore not lifters, Not lifting.

Actually, this one shows it as a rocker pivot too - http://www.partsfornissans.com/nissan/maxima/1323421000/1984-year/gl-trim/2-4l-l6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat I wrote a whole thing then realized I don't know what you mean by "tappet". It's not a word generally used with the L engines. You can pick a number from the diagram in that link.

Rockauto shows a cross-reference, for a different brand, for 1984 Maxima, which appears to where that part number comes from. Probably superceded the early numbers. Click on the part number and it will bring up all of the applications. http://www.partsfornissans.com/nissan/maxima/1323421000/1984-year/gl-trim/2-4l-l6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1984,maxima,2.4l+l6,1211241,engine,rocker+arm,5656

I was going to mention the safety factor also. So many other families are buying giant SUV's and trucks so that they will be the survivors of the accident. The Z started as a sports car, light weight and meant to move. I don't even know why they came up with a 2+2 (no offense to the 2+2 people and their memories). Aside from just accident survivabilty, there's the distraction factor. You don't want to be distracted in a Z, awareness is your best defense. I would not want to get T-boned in a Z by a giant Ford Diesel F850 or whatever number they're up to now.

Cracked head, corroded/cracked front cover, condensation. How much water? How long have you had the engine?

There was a TSB issued about the hose rerouting in 1977. Apparently it was a "fix it if people complain" type of TSB, if people came in with a sticking throttle. It's shown in Humble's Restore book.

The local news stations have really been beating on them. Interviewing people who had bad service. They're taking some serious heat.

Wolf Creek Racing. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

There's not much room in the back of a 2+2. You might take your family out and fit them in the back for a test drive. Plus, an old Z will probably have some smells. The kids and wife will be complaining. John Coffey was working on something like a desert rally car, I believe, but I don't think they lower off-road cars. They raise them.

The basic idea is that when you torque the bolts down the rubber of the bushing is clamped in to place. It flexes rotationally forward and backward, internally in the meat of the bushing material, as the suspension moves, but the outer and inner surfaces stay locked in place. So there's no sequence, it's just a matter of getting the outer and inner surfaces located at the normal ride height of the car. Basically, you leave the bolts loose, set the car down, roll it back and forth to get the wheels to spread to their normal position, rock it up and down a few times, then lay on your back and reach underneath to torque the bolts. Or drive it up on ramps so you can get under it. If you're using polyurethane bushings, none of this matters because they rotate inside the mounts. They need grease to stop squeaking.

I couldn't say, my opinion has no backing, I've gone cheap. I think that I have an OReilly MC in my car and it has worked fine, but have been burned on a reman slave cylinder. It was dirty inside and failed within about 8 months. Considering the difficulty of replacement I might go with one of the better known brands. I don't know who's out there these days though.

If I recall correctly, the axle will put a dent in the cap on the hub side and wear on it if it's too long. Hope it works. Good luck. You know the big bolts are missing from your control arms, right? Next year? It's only August.

These guys are well-known and established around here. Looks like they're milking their reputation. Beware. http://www.oregonlive.com/window-shop/index.ssf/2016/08/leifs_auto_complaints.html#incart_2box

There are actually two seals in the master cylinders - one to push the fluid and another to keep the fluid in the bore after the pusher seal passes the reservoir port. Sounds like your pushing seal doesn't have tight contact with the bore and is shrinking/relaxing to smaller diameter in the bore when there's no activity to create back pressure. I bet a new seal or new MC would fix the problem. I think that there's a variety of seals and cylinders out there though and the remans might use a bigger seal. Best bet might just be a new MC.

Does he say this every time? - " I am a Z collector and will be offering some of my more rare and sought after cars for sale in the coming weeks... " He has a 78 280Z and a Roadster fro sale also - http://www.ebay.com/sch/harmony01/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

When you say "lose prime" do you mean that the pedal is up but when you press it ti goes to the floor without actuating the clutch cylinder? Or do you mean the pedal has dropped to the floor and has to be lifted up and pressed a few times before it stays up? Is any fluid lost or does the fluid level stay the same, even though the "prime" is gone? Don't know what "prime" means.

You might also check the power transistor wires and the ground circuit of the mounting bracket. It's very exposed and the wires aren't very durable. Plus I think that the transistor grounds through the bracket, so a dirty or loose bracket can affect its operation. The whole thing looks cobbled together, like it's from Radio Shack. Check it, clean it, tighten things up, and use a meter to verify grounds.

But what does the tachometer needle do? Usually there are other things that happen that can give a clue about the main problem. Here's a link to the HEI module conversion - http://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/turbo-ignitor-swap-upgrade-chevy-hei-27569/

When does it miss? All the time, even at idle? Accelerating, cruising... What is the tachometer needle doing when it's missing? Try to distinguish between a fuel problem and an ignition problem. Maybe your power transistor is dying. Considering the time you're spending, switching to the HEI module might be worth a shot. $25. The injectors all fire at the same time, even on the turbo engines. Sequential injection didn't show up until in the 90's. Just sayin'...

Looks like the hood vents aren't broken yet, although the hood is. Back lights not bad, rims might be okay except they're probably curb-rashed from the stretched tires. This is about like the parts car I bought. Engine's in my 76 right now. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/5746677801.html Edit - @Mark Maras

I think that's starting bid. eBay says "0 bids" so far. It has some rust, some in odd places. Check behind the left headlight bucket. Sutherlin is waaay down I-5. Farm country. The description says that there's a Dannys Datsun down there.