Zed Head

You've kind of come over to my side and are rephrasing what I said. Field results are data, the more specific the better. Anecdotes about "my buddy tried it and said it's "better" are 2nd hand stories, vaguely told. No offense to anyone who'd done that, but there's a principle called "cognitive bias" that describes how people generally think that that what they're doing or using is better. They see what they want to see. That's why we measure things and put numbers on them if we can.

Anybody notice that the bids went, 5,000, 18,000, 19,000, within 2 days, then stopped? Seems sketchy to me. Doesn't make sense. Why would somebody jump in 13,000 over the last bid?

Where'd you get it? Did it have instructions?

I'd bet you'll find just as many anecdotes about Redline. I have one myself, but it's specific to a certain problem. I just like a good solid decisive-making process, not 2nd hand, I know somebody stories. They're a good starting point but not something that should be used to make a firm statement. I don't even use Redline so don't have a dog here. Just talking about the process.

So cold weather shifting is the improvement? Notchiness? For Zup. What was your experience? I don't want to badger you but I always like to see the data. You made a firm statement of superiority but it's not clear what, exactly, is better about it.. There are so many different qualities to transmission performance that they need to be defined before you can say better or worse.

How do you know? Curious. I know that people like both but haven't seen the one-to-one comparison results. Diff noise in the cabin is usually caused by the way the diff is mounted. The diffs are inherently noisy. You need to get the bushings right to quiet things down.

Black door handles. Deal killer!

Somebody found the mid-point between a functioning PCV system and no PCV system. You're going to have to do better than somewhere else to do well with these cars.

This doesn't bode well, considering it's supposed to be "tuneable". 10 years without tuning? " Bosch 440cc injectors. Z31 ECU with Nistune board installed ... The engine is said to run a bit rich... " or this - While the clutch throw-out bearing is said to be a little noisey, it reportedly does not slip. $19,000.

Does the engine run? Does the alternator charge? Or are you just examining your non-running new project? There should be two wires, but some of the aftermarket alternators use one. Maybe yours is not stock.

I don't think that 1979 used the shifter with the spring-loaded bushing, did ti? The FSM shows the older style, not the ZX style. 1979 is a transition year for many parts, it's half Z/half ZX. The transmission itself is the same as the 1978 version. Edit - question answered, above...

You might consider leaving the rubber boots and leather off when you put it back together so that you can see the shifter action. Maybe the trim pieces are getting stuck in the gaps. It's the stuff you don't think about that isn't obvious until you think about it. Did the transmission shop mention anything specific? Did they check the roll pins in the shift forks, and the bearings in the adapter plate? A really good shop would have a check list to show what they inspected, and even a separate list specific to a problem, like shifting. Just saying, "we didn't find anything" doesn't mean they looked in the right places. Sometimes the good shops have been good for so long that they think they're infallible.

Won't Zedy have the shifter hole problem? Need to make it bigger or bend the rod. Minor mod but still something to plan for. The late 1980 ZX had the close ratio also, but with a .773 5th instead of .745. Broadens the range 1/2 year. About the same but a few RPM difference on the highway. The wides have a .864 5th.

I love what Blue did on that site, site, but, big-picture-wise he's just a guy guessing like us. Just looking for some definitive documentation. Fun to talk about too.

Those are aftermarket and don't seem to have a front or back. Does make things easier though. Or are you just messing with us?

Anybody know for sure what the proper orientation of the rubber TC rod bushings is? Is it inspected at the car shows? Has anybody ever been dinged for backward bushings? Relevant thread happening now -

I wonder if the concours guys know. Seems like they should. Maybe it's been overlooked over the years and awards will need to be returned for improper bushing orientation.

My inner troublemaker can't resist posting this picture. I remember having this conversation before and can't remember where it ended up. I could go look at my car to see how I did mine, since I have also looked at old crusty apparently factory-installed bushings and made a determination. The rubber in the drawing also doesn't have the rounded look of the replacement bushings. I really don't know what's right or wrong, and the driver probably can't tell anyway, I'd think. I think the groove is there to allow the bushing to flex without side-loading the rod end, and it comes in to play either way. I'll just leave the picture from FA chapter, to ponder.

Not uncommon for the old EFI systems to run lean. A "few miles" implies that it's the first time you let the engine get fully warmed up. The mixture gets leaner as things get warmer. You might be disappointed if you drop the tank and don't find much rust. Easier ways to diagnose a problem. Just saying. The FPR is the most common cause of pressure leak-down. It's just a flat steel tube end sitting on a flat piece of steel. Any small particles or rust pits allow leak-down. I can't recall anyone actually finding a leaking CSV. It's a mystery part that takes a lot of blame, but rarely causes a real problem. The simple test for fuel system leakage is to remove the small wire from the starter solenoid and turn the key to Start. That will power the pump. No need to block the hole in the manifold, just pop the CSV out enough to see the squirting end, and run the pump.

The end of one of mine broke off (PU on both sides) and I lost the washers and the nut. Heard them hit the pavement as I was driving but I was on a bumpy city street and thought I had just run over something. Steering was loose all the way home, about 4 miles, while I pondered what that metallic clank really had been. I found a scrape mark on the front of my wheel well from where the tire had moved up and hit it after I bumped the curb when parallel parking, that gave it the coupe de grace.

The eBay link is the early two part assembly. Not positive but I think that Nissan might have went to the one piece part that covers the injector body to combat the "heat soak" problem. Or they were just cheaper to make, although they could have left them open with a one-piece design too. Something to consider. A Rebello might not be using stock injectors anyway. If you're using an aluminum fuel rail with o-ring injectors you don't need the hold-downs. The rail locates and clamps the injectors.

Check Pin 1 for connection to the coil's negative terminal. That's what the ECU monitors to know when to open the injectors. Might be worthwhile to go through the tests in the EFI book. Your fluctuations could just be the coil changing the voltage drop when it sparks.

I've thought that a person might be able to make a simple comparative manometer using a shop vac and clear hose in a u-shape. Fill the hose with water and set up a Bernoulli type system to pull the water up. Make marks and you can compare each set of ports and runners. No numbers just seeing if they pull the same. A good vacuum gauge might be precise enough to get some good readings also. Or a pressure gauge on the inlet side of a blower, instead of a shop vac. Won't show flow but would allow one to one comparisons.

There's a ton on the internet. But many of these old engines have been worked on and made to run with the distributor off a tooth or two. The best thing to do is to set the timing mark on the damper pulley to zero, on the compression stroke of cylinder #1, then set plug wire #1 in the cap to wherever the rotor under the distributor cap is pointed. Then plug in the rest of the wires in a counterclockwise direction,in the order I showed. People have wasted hours and days of time setting their wires the way the factory did, only to find that their distributor wasn't the way it was when it left the factory. If you want specific help post some pictures after you set the timing mark to zero.

153624 CCW